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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 4, 2015 20:24:39 GMT
Cross eyed git has got the initials out of alignment.  All that work and he screws up stamping his initials.  It's fine, there's no requirement for perfection, if there was I could remove the stamp and re do it easily! |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 5, 2015 9:02:00 GMT
Took the spindle home and fitted the wheel, well the spindle works fine, tightened up and the wheel still spins great,   |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 9, 2015 11:59:53 GMT
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 9, 2015 13:31:13 GMT
Started to sort out the rear wheel, heated the bearing carrier up and the wheel, and put the bearing in the freezer,  Then use a large socket to hammer the bearing in with!  fitted the cush drive rubbers, though left out the disc mount bolts, the spacer between the bearings that I had was 2mm to long, it would fit, but hold the bearing such that you couldn't fit the circlip, this was a dry build, but it now works, I will fit everything and drill the cush drive rubbers in order to soften the rubbers, at a later stage,  the spacer between the caliper carrier, I think that I have it the correct way, inner raised part towards the bearing, outer part acting as a cover, but not touching the bearing!  |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 12, 2015 16:47:18 GMT
Because in the other thread I mentioned adventurising the Puch, my mechanic colleague, thought he would look to do the same, possibly improved the reliability of the madass, but I think a tad to big!  new barrel, head and piston, rings and 15mm carb and a range of main jets, air filter and gaskets rings and hardware, for the puch arrived from the Netherlands,    and standard looking but big bore exhaust,  |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 13, 2015 9:46:20 GMT
Special adventure fuel tank arrived today, note that you can move this model between vehicles, stick that up your ar$e Touratech,  I took the Puch out for a test ride today, it's pretty nippy, I guess because its a 2 speed model, got it to 40 on the clock, down hill it sounds like an angry wasp in a bottle though, so I guess the clock is none too accurate! looks like I will need a front sprocket with a couple of teeth more, once its out to 70cc! |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 19, 2015 15:37:46 GMT
the Puch engine maybe not quite in the frame anymore!   |
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Post by m40man on Feb 19, 2015 15:50:34 GMT
the Puch engine maybe not quite in the frame anymore! I'm starting to think we'll be needing an independent scrutineer, after all your upgrading & fettling  . |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 19, 2015 16:06:44 GMT
the Puch engine maybe not quite in the frame anymore! I'm starting to think we'll be needing an independent scrutineer, after all your upgrading & fettling . it will look totally standard and be well under 100cc! It's getting a tougher crank, as a 70cc kit can kill the original pretty quickly if revved over 9500rpm, new crank is good to 15000rpm more as a improvement to reliability, than performance, points bounce will limit revs, but downhill will be the problem, plus I get to replace the 36 year old crank seals, kickstart bush and spring, coil, major wiring and have a look at the clutch, I am aiming for 40mph though the Mobylette may still be doing the run and that goes 25-30mph, I may have to do a little maintenance on it to try to improve it slightly! |
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Post by m40man on Feb 19, 2015 17:51:27 GMT
It's getting a tougher crank, as a 70cc kit can kill the original pretty quickly if revved over 9500rpm, new crank is good to 15000rpm Will you be running it in on the C2C run - that should slow you down a bit  . |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 19, 2015 18:07:40 GMT
It's getting a tougher crank, as a 70cc kit can kill the original pretty quickly if revved over 9500rpm, new crank is good to 15000rpm Will you be running it in on the C2C run - that should slow you down a bit . I was hoping to run it in on the border raid! Maybe not! I think I will try to get some miles on it beforehand, I will need to get the mixture right, by doing plug chops! |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 20, 2015 15:41:53 GMT
Anyhow I removed the head and piston and checked the new base gasket against both the new cylinder and the crankcase,   looks like I need to shave some of the crankcase off,  removed the stator and ignition plate and removed all the screws holding the cases together, first using a impact screwdriver,  removed the crank, it still needs a puller for the centrifugal clutch,  everything out of the cases, then the transfer ports matched to the cylinder, once clamped together with 4 screws, I used a dremel for this, and a carbide burr,  if you look at how the bearings are lubed, one is lubed by the gearbox oil, via splash from the drive sprocket, It's an incredibly simple engine, the only special tools needed so far are clutch puller, which is easy to make, a flywheel puller, and an impact screwdriver, as I will be putting in a new crank and bearings/seals, I only need to pull the clutch using the tool (5 euros) and fit seals bearings to the new crank and refit the cases together using a petrol resistant sealant |
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Post by satnav on Mar 1, 2015 8:47:05 GMT
Seems to be coming along nicely Ian . ........... do you ever get any paid work done, with all this fettling  ? Yes, of course I do, I deal with the customers and answer the phone, And I do some mechanicals, Had this in today, with some electrical issues, I need to pull the starter off it tomorrow and clean, wait for the new relays to arrive, then do a full service,  An Italian bike with electrical issues, surely not? Sorry for the late reply, only just started reading this. |
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Post by satnav on Mar 1, 2015 8:50:06 GMT
A Guzzi with leccy problems! Well I never Bm looks to coming along nicely. Yes why did they buy Japanese relays and French starter motors, fools! Given that it was an Italian that discovered electricity, it now staggers me how they can't make it work. |
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Post by satnav on Mar 2, 2015 11:50:19 GMT
Anyhow I removed the head and piston and checked the new base gasket against both the new cylinder and the crankcase, looks like I need to shave some of the crankcase off, removed the stator and ignition plate and removed all the screws holding the cases together, first using a impact screwdriver, removed the crank, it still needs a puller for the centrifugal clutch, everything out of the cases, then the transfer ports matched to the cylinder, once clamped together with 4 screws, I used a dremel for this, and a carbide burr, if you look at how the bearings are lubed, one is lubed by the gearbox oil, via splash from the drive sprocket, It's an incredibly simple engine, the only special tools needed so far are clutch puller, which is easy to make, a flywheel puller, and an impact screwdriver, as I will be putting in a new crank and bearings/seals, I only need to pull the clutch using the tool (5 euros) and fit seals bearings to the new crank and refit the cases together using a petrol resistant sealant I see some tuning potential in those crankcases. |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Mar 2, 2015 12:35:54 GMT
I see some tuning potential in those crankcases. If you look closely at the pictures where the crankcases are apart, you should see that any tuning of the crankcases have no potential at all anymore! |
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Post by satnav on Mar 3, 2015 0:37:04 GMT
See what you have done there. However, it looks like you could be a bit braver. I see you have to be careful of the bolt holes, but it looks like a bit more could come off at the base of the port near the crankshaft. This would not only enlarge the port from the crank but straighten the flow of gas.
Seriously, I used to work tunning 100cc kart engines for a specialist firm in the late 70's.
BTW, We revved those to 18,000 rpm.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Apr 14, 2015 18:46:12 GMT
The Puch is actually quite fast, still with decent mid range( for a moped) and revs out, it does 45 on the clock, But will Rev higher once it's run in, though I might need to lower the gearing a tooth on the front It's scary at full speed though, I do need to take the clutch cover off as there is a slight leak of gearbox oil, I did use a new gasket, but will use some sealant next time, The GS has passed its Mot, though I did have to remove the front disc and put it on the other side in order to turn the front wheel around, as it was easier than removing the tyre, which was fitted the wrong way around by the last owner! Because I missed having a 2smoke, having sold my X7 last year, I bought this,    |
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Post by bev on Apr 14, 2015 19:32:36 GMT
I do fancy the RD. |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Apr 14, 2015 19:49:35 GMT
It does require re jetting, as it was apparently on spannies, it did come with some jets, and the high beam switch replaced,
The engine paint is looking a little dull, and the exhaust could do with a re chrome!
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Post by bev on Apr 14, 2015 19:57:19 GMT
But a decent looking base for a project. |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Apr 14, 2015 20:12:29 GMT
But a decent looking base for a project. I think I will change the jets, fix the switch give it a clean and run it around, as is, Do the chroming and painting over the winter! |
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Post by satnav on Apr 18, 2015 22:44:33 GMT
An RDS, now that takes me back to my yoof.
Best two stroke bike of the 70's by far.
Had one of those tuned to b*gg*ry, ported, twin 30mm Tillotson carbs, racing pistons and rods etc. Went like stink.
Now that really is a project with potential.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Apr 20, 2015 15:48:17 GMT
It does require re jetting, as it was apparently on spannies, it did come with some jets, and the high beam switch replaced, The engine paint is looking a little dull, and the exhaust could do with a re chrome! Due to there being quite a bit on my mind today and on my own holding the fort, I have been doing lot's of little jobs on my bikes, in between dealing with customers, The breva that I used on the Border raid, got a new set of tyres, it's good to have tyres on that don't rub on the swing arm, a nice set of Pirelli Diablo corsa, after that and a bit of a clean of the shabby looking header pipes, I emptied the expansion bottle on the convert, it had been dripping oil, as the small tank was full, due to some numpty over filling the sump, then I fitted the replacement hi beam switch on the RD250, and fixed the leak on the Puch, using a non setting sealant on the cases, done by lying the bike onto the removed from the Breva old tyres  |
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Post by Greendivvy Beeb on Apr 21, 2015 19:53:51 GMT
I emptied the expansion bottle on the convert, it had been dripping oil, as the small tank was full, due to some numpty over filling the sump, So that was where the Convert was leaking from then. Good it was nothing serious |
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Post by Pops on May 5, 2015 13:40:28 GMT
Moped's here, the footrests and riding position seems a little strange!   so I had to have ago,   mechanic had to have ago,   adjusted the controls, including lowering the footrests,  Imho Great fun can be had in a three wheeler (top picture) as I can remember from my late teens. I was looking for one to play about with a few months ago but they are not worth the money that is being asked for them nowadays. |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 5, 2015 14:19:59 GMT
The money being asked for that one is quite reasonable
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 20, 2015 15:44:22 GMT
The racing Puch is booked in for a Mot Friday! I have been playing with a clonky old triumph this week!   not mine, it lacks an electric boot! |
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Post by teejayexc on May 20, 2015 19:02:12 GMT
I likes that. Is it for sale?
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 20, 2015 19:18:00 GMT
I likes that. Is it for sale? It nearly breaks your foot when it kicks back, The vibes are fierce, you Rev it until you get double vision, no Rev counter needed, neutral is nowhere to be seen when the engine is running You can see oil mist coming out of the joint between cylinders and cases, But no it's not for sale! Would I buy one, not without electric start, but it is great to ride and the gearshift is on the correct side! It came to us a difficult starter and it wouldn't tivk over, The usual Amal blocked passages problem! |
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