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Post by amorti on Jun 10, 2010 15:21:31 GMT
You want to try doing the valves on a T595... seats and seat unit off to get access to remove the tank, to get access to remove the thermostat from the airbox, to remove the airbox, to get access to the head. And it's still bloomin tight in there. Same to do the plugs (plus two bolts each on the coil-caps), which have "free access" on the divvy.
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Post by fazerbill on Jun 10, 2010 16:07:17 GMT
Well i was going to do the fork oil change today with 15w oil but I could not get the top caps off, and yes I did loosen the top pinch bolts. I had a socket the exact shape of the nut but the caps are soft as poo and it felt like it was going to chew them up so I gave up. The previous owner had the fork seals done about 2 year ago and some git has horsed the caps up too tight. When I slackened the wheel spindle to get wheel off to change tyre it was as tight as hell. This is only meant to be torqued to 59NM. Crazy man
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Post by streetfreak on Jun 11, 2010 17:42:26 GMT
Got the twin disc frontend in the seca 2, only problem was the ignition barrel holes had to be drilled out as the later set up has larger threads than the seca apart from that no prob's, will put some pic's up when all painted 'n' lookin' good.
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Post by amorti on Jun 14, 2010 7:44:17 GMT
Well i was going to do the fork oil change today with 15w oil but I could not get the top caps off, and yes I did loosen the top pinch bolts. I had a socket the exact shape of the nut but the caps are soft as poo and it felt like it was going to chew them up so I gave up. The previous owner had the fork seals done about 2 year ago and some git has horsed the caps up too tight. When I slackened the wheel spindle to get wheel off to change tyre it was as tight as hell. This is only meant to be torqued to 59NM. Crazy man If you put thicker oil in you will just have an undersprung and overdamped bike. You would be better using original spec oil, and just more of it, though that will stress the seals. The only solution is to splash out the £70-odd for a set of hagon springs. Trust me I tried. The way to get these out is going to be with a rattle gun, but I would consider having some new caps ready to go.
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Post by fazerbill on Jun 14, 2010 9:54:34 GMT
If you put thicker oil in you will just have an undersprung and overdamped bike. You would be better using original spec oil, and just more of it, though that will stress the seals. The only solution is to splash out the £70-odd for a set of hagon springs. Trust me I tried.
The way to get these out is going to be with a rattle gun, but I would consider having some new caps ready to go.[/quote]
I had the bike shops maniac look at it and he said the springing was fine and the dampening was too soft so recommended 15w cos I'm a heavy dude. So bought a litre of silkolene 15w. He had Hagon springs for the divvy but as he said it was fine in that dept. Cheers for your advice tho'
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Post by fazerbill on Jun 14, 2010 9:59:49 GMT
I picked up another 600 diversion on a N plate 1996 its the naked variety. I got it for nowt from a mates mate who had it in his shed for 8 years and just wanted shot of it. V5 is there but no keys. Its got a 4 into 1 motad system. TPS carbs. I will put a pic on here later. I am not sure what I want to do with it. I may use the exhaust and rear shock for mine and sell the rest of it for bits.
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Post by amorti on Jun 14, 2010 14:16:20 GMT
Fair play. My divvy did have @50k miles on it when I replaced the springs, so they could have just been shot with age. Generally though, the springs are thinner metal so lower spring rate than they ought to be. Here's a picture for comparison: If his bike is better than yours, and newer, why not keep that one? Unless you really like the fairing, but imho it's rubbish, creating turbulence, vibration-noise and not much wind-protection at all. I reckon you'd be better off with a naked+flyscreen.
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Post by fazerbill on Jun 14, 2010 14:57:59 GMT
I do prefer the fairing model but the naked does look good. My 94 is better nick than the 96 one. I got the bike running after using the tank off the 94 and the battery. The engine sound good but there was a little blue smoke when running but after about 10 mins it was getting less. The 96 would need new seals on all brake parts including brake hoses and pads. Probably a new master cylinder. Replace rear wheel as it is flat spotted badly on one side. Tyres. The petrol tank had rusty water in it along with bad fuel. Rev counter only goes upto 1500 and no further. It would need a complete lock set as there is no keys. The rest of it is fine and I will sell them as spares. Its a black divvy. All electrics are working. I will be keeping the exhaust and rear shocker. The chain and sprockets were renewed just before the bike was stored. DID chain JT sprockets. I will itemise the parts on here first and then pop them on ebay if not sold.
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Post by fazerbill on Jun 18, 2010 17:24:54 GMT
I fitted the Motad 4 into 1 exhaust with new exhaust port gaskets and took off the centre stand. I think the bike looked better with the twin exhausts IMHO, but the cans were scraped and corroded at the collector joints. One just broke up when I took it off.
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Post by streetfreak on Jun 27, 2010 7:43:45 GMT
got some powder coating done and blacked out the engine,looks meaner, just got to do fork seals now as one let go , spose thats what happens when you use parts that have been laying arround for five years, still got more to do.
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Post by newell on Jun 30, 2010 13:14:02 GMT
Have not had much chance to get on to my Project D6 lately, what with families and life getting in the way But I at least I now know the HT side is ok. Did a lot of rewiring on that side and renewed the coils. Checked each cylinder with a spark tester and it's good to go. Which makes me turn my gaze back to the carbs/induction side. This afternoon I have been busying myself taking the carbs off and checking the inlet rubbers, which look fine. So next is strip the carbs down again and check things over. I must admit to getting a bit pi$$ed off with the work now. Expect a fire sale of parts from a newly broken D6 any time!
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Post by amorti on Jun 30, 2010 14:49:15 GMT
Tried pumping some easy-start into the carbs yet?
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Post by newell on Jun 30, 2010 17:59:34 GMT
You're the second person to suggest that today! I will have to get some and give it a go. As I have started stripping the carbs for cleaning I shall complete that tomorrow. Soak the brass in meths and blow the jets through with my compressor.
Then when it's all boxed up again, if I still have a problem I'll have to take a step back and consider if it's worth continueing to bang my head against a brick wall.
So far I have:
1) Stripped the carbs and renewed a few gaskets and a needle cap. 2) Replaced the old Nexxus 4 - 1 system with a new one from Sandys Bikes. 3) Rebuilt the rear caliper with new seals. 4) Rebuilt the clutch, needed new springs, thrust washer and pivot seal. 5) Checked and adjusted the valve clearances (replaced 2 shims). 6) Fitted new ignition coils, plugs and plug caps. 7) Fitted a new battery. And a hell of a lot of clearing and replacing of dodgy terminals and wiring.
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Post by pastypirate on Jul 5, 2010 22:01:23 GMT
made a nice aluminium horn bracket outta 3mm dural for my xj600n then spent 2hrs sanding and polishing it !!! looks good and shines nice and wont go rusty like the yamaha one
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Post by fazerbill on Jul 8, 2010 13:01:03 GMT
I took the front caliper off and removed the pistons as they were abit tight in their pots. Cleaned piston and pots and regreased with red rubber grease. Moving alot better now. Replaced front pads with EBC HH pads. Went out for a run to bed pads in and see what they were like. Brakes alot better and they are still bedding into to the disc so should be great once they fully bed in.
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Post by newell on Jul 9, 2010 20:11:50 GMT
Bought some carbs for the 'reluctant to start' D6 from Ebay and fitted them. Bike started as soon as I had primed them! Could have saved myself a load of work by doing that earlier It started and settled down to a steady tickover too. Just need to tidy the cabling and wiring above the engine. It certainly sounds good. I am encouraged now. Onward and upward then!
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Post by cam7777 on Jul 9, 2010 20:53:17 GMT
Bought some carbs for the 'reluctant to start' D6 from Ebay and fitted them. Bike started as soon as I had primed them! Could have saved myself a load of work by doing that earlier It started and settled down to a steady tickover too. Just need to tidy the cabling and wiring above the engine. It certainly sounds good. I am encouraged now. Onward and upward then! Well done Jim, I reckon a bimble to Peterborough should be on the cards when it's done
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Post by newell on Jul 10, 2010 10:31:23 GMT
Yes I shall take you up on that when the bike is ready Clive. Cast an eye over that other Divvy that lives that way.
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Post by cam7777 on Jul 10, 2010 20:05:31 GMT
Yes I shall take you up on that when the bike is ready Clive. Cast an eye over that other Divvy that lives that way. Yep, you can even take it out for a spin, along with the Triumph!
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Post by humey53 on Jul 10, 2010 20:23:05 GMT
Took it for MOT - sailed through nae bother.
Oh and fitted some of those things on your forks to stop crap going down past and damaging the seals. God I sound like Count Arthur Strong.
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Post by fazerbill on Jul 13, 2010 18:36:19 GMT
Eh traded it in for a Fazer Thou'
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Grumbleweed
Boy Racer
Grumbleweed, 2009 model XJ6S, brought new in 2010.
Posts: 229
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Post by Grumbleweed on Jul 13, 2010 20:20:16 GMT
Today my Divi sat in pieces while I rang Southampton's Yamaha dealer to order some clutch parts and got told that I can't order over the phone - I have to go over there in person. An excellent new policy implemented to help the working man go to an early grave due to stress and hardship . Graham.
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Grumbleweed
Boy Racer
Grumbleweed, 2009 model XJ6S, brought new in 2010.
Posts: 229
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Post by Grumbleweed on Jul 13, 2010 20:29:31 GMT
I just saw somebody above saying about passing the MOT - my bike decided that it would be a good idea for the clutch thrust bearing to destroy itself just as I started it up to take it to the garage. It still passed, but it wasn't fun riding it home.
Graham.
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Post by amorti on Jul 14, 2010 8:36:24 GMT
Today my Divi sat in pieces while I rang Southampton's Yamaha dealer to order some clutch parts and got told that I can't order over the phone - I have to go over there in person. An excellent new policy implemented to help the working man go to an early grave due to stress and hardship . Graham. Park Road Superbikes? Idiots, unhelpful, slow, and generally a waste of time completely. Go here: www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=30637&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1997&fveh=776get your part numbers and enter them into the OE parts bit on the WeMoto website. Much better. Also, Park Road charged me the postage on bits anyway. Speedo cable or clutch cable or something, so hardly big you'd think it would be on their regular spares order anyway. Meh, stuff 'em, local dealerships need to try harder these days but nobody told them that. There were also thrust bearing part numbers quoted on the site somewhere from www.simplybearings.co.uk , who I have ordered some odd sized bearings off myself and had very good speed of service.
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Grumbleweed
Boy Racer
Grumbleweed, 2009 model XJ6S, brought new in 2010.
Posts: 229
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Post by Grumbleweed on Jul 14, 2010 15:36:25 GMT
Today my Divi sat in pieces while I rang Southampton's Yamaha dealer to order some clutch parts and got told that I can't order over the phone - I have to go over there in person. An excellent new policy implemented to help the working man go to an early grave due to stress and hardship . Graham. Park Road Superbikes? Idiots, unhelpful, slow, and generally a waste of time completely. Go here: www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=30637&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1997&fveh=776get your part numbers and enter them into the OE parts bit on the WeMoto website. Much better. Also, Park Road charged me the postage on bits anyway. Speedo cable or clutch cable or something, so hardly big you'd think it would be on their regular spares order anyway. Meh, stuff 'em, local dealerships need to try harder these days but nobody told them that. There were also thrust bearing part numbers quoted on the site somewhere from www.simplybearings.co.uk , who I have ordered some odd sized bearings off myself and had very good speed of service. It is Park Road. I have had a less than happy relationship with them in the past. I contacted Yamaha's Head Office once to find out if everyone was being treated like cr@p - or were they picking on me. Turns out it was everyone . Thanks for the link. Graham.
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Grumbleweed
Boy Racer
Grumbleweed, 2009 model XJ6S, brought new in 2010.
Posts: 229
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Post by Grumbleweed on Jul 14, 2010 16:08:49 GMT
The WeMoto site is more expensive (by a noticable margin) than the dealer's quote so I don't know what is going on there. This isn't fun anymore.
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Post by amorti on Jul 15, 2010 7:50:20 GMT
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rossm
Scooter Rider
Posts: 68
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Post by rossm on Jul 15, 2010 10:38:50 GMT
Had the tank coated internally to treat the rust, stipped the carbs down (twice) to clean the crud and crap out of them, least she's back up and running now, really could do with replacing the tank though.
Getting some tyres fitted after work today, going for the Conti's as a fair bit cheaper than BT45's
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rossm
Scooter Rider
Posts: 68
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Post by rossm on Jul 15, 2010 21:57:48 GMT
Got the Conti's fitted front & rear £138 ride in ride out so not too bad I thought
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Post by div600n on Jul 17, 2010 14:45:42 GMT
found out that the belly pan i just bought for my 1996 600n has no obvious bolt on points. please anyone help
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