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Post by apricot on Apr 18, 2007 20:31:39 GMT
Oil drain plug has chewed up so I can't remove it to do an oil/filter change. B***** I thought, never mind, change the air filter and fit those shiny new braided lines I've had for a couple of weeks. Removed airbox cover and it was wet with oil inside, so all that had to come off and get cleaned and then I unblocked the breather pipe. On go the lines without too much trouble, bled the front using my new 'brake bleed kit', (£8 well spent IMHO) and when I went to bleed the rear I've gone and sheared the s****** bleed nipple off . Any idea's anyone regarding the drain plug and sheared nipple? Hoping I wont need a whole new rear calliper off ebay...... Ady
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 18, 2007 20:46:20 GMT
Ady can you not tap the sump plug around with a chisel edge just to get it moving then get some mole grips on it?
As for the bleed nipple, if it's sheared straight off try tapping a small three cornered file or something into the hole (gently, they're brittle, then get some grips on it and turn gently whilst still tapping. Works with grease nipples anyway.
good luck. trev
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Post by theviking on Apr 18, 2007 21:01:39 GMT
Oh dear, this looks expensive. ;D The sump plug is going to be the hardest problem to solve, at least if it's as hidden as the one on a 900 Divvy. Normally I would suggest cutting a groove across the head with a hacksaw and use a flat screwdriver but that wouldn't be an option on my bike (without removing the exhaust system). You might be lucky and be able to drill a hole in it and use a stud extractor, otherwise you are left with the old friend "the mole grips". Just remember, whatever option you try; spray it with good quality penetrating oil (or WD40, if nothing better is available) the day before you try to get it out and also to repeatedly tap it (gently) with a hammer before you start. The bleed nipple is easy, just get a stud extractor that fits the little hole in the middle (HALFORDS, B&Q or the likes). Good luck.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Apr 18, 2007 21:20:05 GMT
I have a secondhand back brake caliper and a new back brake caliper for sale if needed
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Post by CD on Apr 18, 2007 21:45:19 GMT
The best option with the sump plug is to try and punch it around with a heavy duty screwdriver. BUT, if you can get a 17mm (I believe) 6 sided socket, it might have enough grip to shift the plug. Once the grip breaks it should unscrew easily.
Watch out with the 6mm bolts which have the 8mm across flats heads. ALWAYS use a ring spanner or socket and ideally a 6 sided socket. I recently (stupidly/lazily) tried to shift one with an open end spanner which simply chewed it. The bolt now wont shift with anything. Thankfully I dont really need to remove the hooter bracket.
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Post by suzukikidontheloose53 on Apr 18, 2007 22:20:04 GMT
If the sump plug is just rounded at the corners halfords sell sockets which push on the flat edges rather than the corners of the bolt.U can buy them individually.
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Post by apricot on Apr 19, 2007 11:41:09 GMT
Cheers guys, some good advice. The sump plug has a phillips screw head, would of been less likely to chew up if it was a bolt head.... Going to tackle the bleed nipple removal later today once I've located my sledge hammer
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Post by alpaholic on Apr 19, 2007 11:51:55 GMT
Cheers guys, some good advice. The sump plug has a phillips screw head, would of been less likely to chew up if it was a bolt head.... Impact driver. Works every time like magic on rounded philips heads. £15 from halfords and you will be amazed at the result.
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Post by Welsh Ade on Apr 19, 2007 12:27:01 GMT
JML new 3 sided adjustable spanner
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Post by m40man on Apr 19, 2007 14:09:32 GMT
Impact driver. Works every time like magic on rounded philips heads. £15 from halfords and you will be amazed at the result. Big hole in soft ally sump ?? ;D ??
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Post by alpaholic on Apr 19, 2007 14:23:07 GMT
Impact driver. Works every time like magic on rounded philips heads. £15 from halfords and you will be amazed at the result. Big hole in soft ally sump ?? ;D ?? Most of the impact is turned into twist & I've been using them on Alloy since I was 8 with no ill effects, but yeah, impact and alloy are not happy bed fellows so it's at the OP's risk. None the less it's the prefect tool for this job. Seemingly seized seemingly completely rounded philips headed bolts just pop loose. Incredible. Nothing like it.
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Post by m40man on Apr 19, 2007 14:29:43 GMT
Big hole in soft ally sump ?? ;D ?? Most of the impact is turned into twist & I've been using them on Alloy since I was 8 with no ill effects, but yeah, impact and alloy are not happy bed fellows so it's at the OP's risk. None the less it's the prefect tool for this job. Seemingly seized seemingly completely rounded philips headed bolts just pop loose. Incredible. Nothing like it. ........... tricky using an impact driver here though - upside down, no gap to swing the hammer!
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Post by m40man on Apr 19, 2007 14:46:01 GMT
........... tricky using an impact driver here though - upside down, no gap to swing the hammer! .... though I guess you could turn the bike upside down, like when you're oiling your chain on a push bike Whilst it's upside down, you might as well drain the oil via the filler ;D.
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Post by alpaholic on Apr 19, 2007 14:48:59 GMT
Most of the impact is turned into twist & I've been using them on Alloy since I was 8 with no ill effects, but yeah, impact and alloy are not happy bed fellows so it's at the OP's risk. None the less it's the prefect tool for this job. Seemingly seized seemingly completely rounded philips headed bolts just pop loose. Incredible. Nothing like it. ........... tricky using an impact driver here though - upside down, no gap to swing the hammer! When you read up the thread it's the easiest and most effective alternative by far. I've never successfully used a stud extractor. Cutting a groove never seems to work - especially on a philips head with little or no meat on it. The halfords drive on the flats would be excellent - except it's a Philips head. AFAIC. The impact driver is a magic tool sent from heaven to ping loose stuck and mangled philips heads.
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Post by m40man on Apr 19, 2007 14:53:39 GMT
"The halfords drive on the flats would be excellent - except it's a Philips head."
............ JUST a philips head though?? Not a rounded nut which had a philips countersink in it?
Who would have a drain plug like that ??
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Post by Welsh Ade on Apr 19, 2007 15:01:55 GMT
Most of the impact is turned into twist & I've been using them on Alloy since I was 8 with no ill effects, but yeah, impact and alloy are not happy bed fellows so it's at the OP's risk. None the less it's the prefect tool for this job. Seemingly seized seemingly completely rounded philips headed bolts just pop loose. Incredible. Nothing like it. ........... tricky using an impact driver here though - upside down, no gap to swing the hammer! Just take of the side stand and let it fall over this works for TDM
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Post by alpaholic on Apr 19, 2007 15:02:20 GMT
"The halfords drive on the flats would be excellent - except it's a Philips head." ............ JUST a philips head though?? Not a rounded nut which had a philips countersink in it? Who would have a drain plug like that ?? Err, if you read up the thread it seems Apricot would have a drain plug like that. Hard to imagine he'd be fretting over a philips head bolt if it was sitting on a 20mm hex!
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Post by m40man on Apr 19, 2007 15:04:23 GMT
He lives on the IOW you know.
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Post by alpaholic on Apr 19, 2007 15:04:37 GMT
........... tricky using an impact driver here though - upside down, no gap to swing the hammer! Just take of the side stand and let it fall over this works for TDM Glock, glock, glock.
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 19, 2007 15:23:43 GMT
"The halfords drive on the flats would be excellent - except it's a Philips head." ............ JUST a philips head though?? Not a rounded nut which had a philips countersink in it? Who would have a drain plug like that ?? A tight wad from the IOW that's who ;D Prolly thought one nut on the bike was enough Trev
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Post by CD on Apr 19, 2007 15:31:20 GMT
I think we can't all be talking about the same thing.
The Diversion 600 sump plug is about 1" (25mm) in diameter with a 17mm across flats hexagon in the middle. Its made of aluminium alloy or die-cast zinc.
If you are trying to undo something with phillips headed screws you can't be working on the sump plug. We need a picture of the offending article
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 19, 2007 15:35:00 GMT
I think we can't all be talking about the same thing. The Diversion 600 sump plug is about 1" (25mm) in diameter with a 17mm across flats hexagon in the middle. Its made of aluminium alloy or die-cast zinc. If you are trying to undo something with phillips headed screws you can't be working on the sump plug. We need a picture of the offending article Don't take it out Ady It's holding the bike together ;D Trev
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Post by 2old2boogie on Apr 19, 2007 15:39:48 GMT
Yeah - I've never seen a sump plug with a Phillips head. Seen somebodges with gas plugs though! A photo would be helpful. As a bodger of the old school, if it is a phillips head than I'd agree with Mark. Impact driver every time. Lay the bike down on it's side. On to anything thats soft but firm. Last time I did it I used a camping air bed (and ruined it!). Then you'll get a decent swing with the Impact Driver. It will shift it!
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Post by Ghoti on Apr 19, 2007 15:58:47 GMT
I think we can't all be talking about the same thing. The Diversion 600 sump plug is about 1" (25mm) in diameter with a 17mm across flats hexagon in the middle. Its made of aluminium alloy or die-cast zinc. If you are trying to undo something with phillips headed screws you can't be working on the sump plug. We need a picture of the offending article Chiro, My 600 and 900 Diversion had a 17mm bolt with a philips head screw looking thing in the middle of it. Confused the hell out of me first time I tried an oil change. Why not take the sump off and drill the nut from what was the inside. A normal power drill owuld work as from the top you'd have to go clockwise anyway.
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Post by m40man on Apr 19, 2007 16:00:54 GMT
Yeah - I've never seen a sump plug with a Phillips head. A photo would be helpful. Must admit - I have. But it was within a normal looking 17mm sump plug. This might even have been on my 1st Divvy 600s! I couldn't see the reasoning behind it, & undid it with a 17mm socket anyway. ...... yep - a pic would settle it
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Post by 2old2boogie on Apr 19, 2007 16:08:40 GMT
Yeah I've seen plenty of them Martin. Normal hexagon head with a Phillips type cross. Always thought it was for starting the bolt on it's thread then nip it up with a socket. But REMOVING the bolt. Which is what we are discussing here, you would'nt use a Phillips driver! Would you?
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 19, 2007 16:09:53 GMT
Yeah I've seen plenty of them Martin. Normal hexagon head with a Phillips type cross. Always thought it was for starting the bolt on it's thread then nip it up with a socket. But REMOVING the bolt. Which is what we are discussing here, you would'nt use a Phillips driver! Would you? Ady would ;D trev
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Post by m40man on Apr 19, 2007 16:10:18 GMT
CC : He is from the IOW you know!
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Post by CD on Apr 19, 2007 16:33:59 GMT
I never grovelled low enough on the floor to even notice the cross in the middle I simply found a 6 point socket that fitted and cracked it loose. When I looked it turned out to be a 17mm. Though getting the plug out without scalding hand is nother issue I usually let it drop into the oil tray then spend ages fishing out the washer (usually too forgetful to get a new one). They work fine if you heat them up with a blow torch to soften the copper. Its always worth getting a spare drain plug for those odd occasions where you cant find suitable socket and dont resist the temptation to use the bike toolkit 17mm open ender (or a cheap chinese ring spanner). I've only done that so far on an 8mm AF bolt but there's time yet. The bolt will have to be drilled out
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Post by judi on Apr 19, 2007 17:48:25 GMT
You've obviously never lived ;D ;D ;D
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