Info for new owner

[nobby]

Hello all,
I am a new owner of a 1992/3 Lreg(not sure what year as I havent got the log book back yet)
the bike didnt come with any Yamaha owners manual etc etc so I was wondering if any of you can answer some basic questions and some slightly more tech ones that I have.

whats the service intervals ?
what other calpier will fit in place of the original?
will later forks with twin disk fit?
what oil is best?
bike has got what I read is a usual clutch rattle.
are there any pictures of this "pin" thats talked about
is there a step by step "how to do" anywhere ?

Some of these questions have prob been asked before but please help if you can

[taint]

Hi Nobby,

Suggestion No 1, grab Reaper's DVD (check the Sale & wanted section); it covers the majority of the regular maintenance you'll need to do. Also if you check the extras section, there is a PDF copy of the Haynes manual.

Not sure of the full servicing intervals, I've yet to get mine to a stage where I CAN do regular servicing. Unless someone else posts it first, I'll rake out my Haynes Manual from the Garage and post the details. Otherwise, I think there may be a downloadable PDF copy in the Technical section of the site. Alternatively, if you can find a copy, buy it; because it's more useful than a PC when you're actually working on the bike

I don't know if any other calipers can be used to replace the original; most of the yamaha calipers share similar mount spacings. The Blue spot would be brilliant, but you'd need to replace the wheel as well; as they catch on the spokes. In previous discussions it's been agreed that you can improve the braking performance by switching to HH rated pads and Braided hoses.

I believe that when they switched to the twin disks, they also increased the diameter of the fork stanchions. I think if you can also replace the yokes you can do the swap, but someone else might be able to confirm.

The 'best' oil is an area of great debate ;D I've had great success with Silkolene Comp 4T fully synth, but it's expensive . Many of the others have alternative opinions.

There is a step by step guide somewhere on the site; probably the technical section, but this is also covered very well on Reaper's DVD.

I hope this helps

T.

[HRHpenfold]

Minor service every 4000miles, major every 8,000 miles, valve adjustment every16,000 miles.


major work to fit a later twin disc type, not worth it, common to fit a braided hose and ferodo HH pads.

any decent 10w40 oil.

think the pin and servicing minor and major is covered in reapers DvD, which iirc is still£15 and well worth the money

[jestertoby]

Hi,

for a dualdisc-brake you can use some of Yamahas forks. The easiest way is the FZR600 (3HE) from late 1991, they have a 38mm fork and you can mount the R1/R6/Fazer calipers on them ;D. A friend of mine has done this.
I have used the FZR600R (4JH) forks, because the suspension is much better with them. But thisone is hard to get.
With both forks you have to get the frontwheels to, for the 3HEs fork you will have a 3" rim and you can use your old (110/80 R17)) pneu. On the 4JH you will get a 3,5" rim for use with 120/60 R17 pneus.

[HRHpenfold]

jestertoby said:

Hi,

for a dualdisc-brake you can use some of Yamahas forks. The easiest way is the FZR600 (3HE) from late 1991, they have a 38mm fork and you can mount the R1/R6/Fazer calipers on them ;D. A friend of mine has done this.
I have used the FZR600R (4JH) forks, because the suspension is much better with them. But thisone is hard to get.
With both forks you have to get the frontwheels to, for the 3HEs fork you will have a 3" rim and you can use your old (110/80 R17)) pneu. On the 4JH you will get a 3,5" rim for use with 120/60 R17 pneus.

or you can just sell the divvie and buy a Fazer 600, which will be better in every way

[jestertoby]

Of cause it is much easier to buy a Fazer, wich is a very nice bike and as you said in every way better, but then you have another "from stock" bike ;D

greetz Toby

[HRHpenfold]

jestertoby said:

Of cause it is much easier to buy a Fazer, wich is a very nice bike and as you said in every way better, but then you have another "from stock" bike ;D

greetz Toby

lets be honest, you don't buy a divvie, to be an individual, you buy them because they are reliable and cheap, replacing forks,calipers and associate items will cost in excess of the difference in price, and you will still have an inferior machine

[nobby]

when the bike is on centre stand should the rear wheel clear the ground ? mine bearly does even on flat ground.
Is this normal ?

[beeblemaster]

nobby said:

when the bike is on centre stand should the rear wheel clear the ground ? mine bearly does even on flat ground.
Is this normal ?

Yeah.. you should do. About 1.5-2 inches clearance I'd say. Maybe your suspension is a bit saggy.

[stoph900]

If rear wheel not clearing ground I would suggest stand bent/decaying rather than suspension sagging... theyre not particularly strong and bend easily when older...

Chris

[nobby]

I will check it at the weekend.
I was also thinking of stripping the rear suspention linkage to grease the bolts and replace any bushes.
Is this easy on these bikes ?
any tips?

[nobby]

also before I forget,

The rattle the bike has is only on tick over/lower revs.once revs are over say 2000 the rattle goes.
is it still clutch or perhaps tensioner ?
any thoughts ?

[taint]

The rear suspension linkage is pretty easy; assuming there's been no water ingress; then it can become particularly painful and expensive.

Not going to harp on about it, but this is also covered in Reaper's DVD

I recently stripped down my '95 D6 swingarm and despite having no pivot covers and the spindle being dry as a bone, it came to bits easily enough and went back together easily. The big delay for me was cleaning the lot up and re-spraying the arm. It takes a fair bit of effort to shift 15 years of built up chain oil/wax/gunk

The other major concern is the bottom bolt attaching the monoshock to the swingarm. On older bikes it's often seized solid and nigh impossible to remove without mangling the heads of the nut or bolt or grinding it off. It's worth soaking the nut in WD40 or some other penetrating oil for a couple of nights before attempting to remove them.

I tried using impact tools, but eventually managed to remove the bolt by taking the entire swingarm and shock out and then standing on one wrench while jumping on another. Just watch you don't break an ankle

As for the rattle, from what I've heard and experienced, it's pretty much default on most Divis. I've heard the clutch being blamed, as well as the Cam chain tensioner and a couple of other bits. I found a lot of my rattle went away after replacing my oil with something a bit better.

I hope this helps

Thanks

T.

[CD]

Have you looked at the fix for the clutch/oil pump rattle that's covered in this section. It might be where your problem lies.

[nobby]

Oil/filter change today.
Bike has the usual it seems motad.
Went to get the socket onto the drain bolt and............
oh one of the downpipes is right in the way.
well thats a bad design !
In the end I took the whole exhuast off!
well least I can clean it properly

[nobby]

So has nobody else has this prob ?

[taint]

Ack, sorry Nobby, I thought I'd replied

I also have a Motad 4 - 1 system, but I didn't have any issues when accessing the drain bolt.

I needed a socket extender, but I had direct access from below and no issues with the oil pouring onto the downpipes. I've yet to try removing the exhaust; but I'm not looking forward to trying!

Perhaps your downpipes are a slightly different design?

Hope this helps

T.

[nobby]

I have no idea if the exhaust is different.
any codes/numers on yours?

[Padster]

The Motad replacement can cause issues with access but most people just work around it. If the sump plug hasn't been done up too tight a ring spanner does the trick.

[nobby]

There might be room for a spanner but as we know its best to change oil when engine is hot.So getting in there with a spanner could be a bit dodgy.
I put some gloves on and took the exhaust off in the end.
I will see if its just a case of the socket I have is too big in its overall size.Or might get a old spanner and try and heat and bend it perhaps ??

[nobby]

So after some serious ebay'ing Im closer to getting the bike how I want it.
Of late I have bought another top fairing as the one on the bike is cracked,the fairing bracket and indicator bracket.The extened bit of the rear mudguard as the original one had been taken off,some new ebc hh pads and a braided hose and I slso got a givi single box rack for £22!!

The brake disc on the bike was totaly brown,not with rust but oil !!
looks like the bikes had a fork seal go and the oil has gone onto the disc.so I have soaked the disc with wheel acid and it now looks better.
So it should now stop !

Next jobs are,
fit the pads and hose.
replace the top fairing
fit extened mud guard
remove swinging arm,check bushes.
paint arm
fit new chain and sprokets
fit givi rack

questions,

how does the rack fit ?
it came with some brackets but I cant work it out.do any here have a bike with a single givi rack fitted? if so can you take a pic of how it mounts please.

are all 600 divi swinging arms silver/grey colour ?

[nobby]

Right an update,

I mentioned that the swinging arm on my bike is black.looks like it was painted black at some point.but looked sh*t .
So I was going to remove it then paint it,well I saw one on ebay in grey for £5 so I bought that!
I got some new buses and changed on saturday.I was suprised that all the bolt came undone with no problems!
fitted a nice new brake hose aswell.
So thats done,next is change the bulbs in the clocks,then get a new rear tyre,am thinking of an avon.then fit new chain.
Then its air filter housing off and see whats going on with the carbs.
seems very wet and oily on top.poss fuel leak ? or just might be a build up of crap.
what you think ?

[taint]

The oil in the filter box is a relatively comon problem, caused by a build up of mayonaise in the clutch breather pipe.

I had a similar problem a couple of months back, I ended up having to clean out the pipe and replace the filter, but the clutch case was free from mayo.

The common advice for preventing this is to take the occasional long run to allow the engine to clear out any condensation.

Hope this helps

T.

[nobby]

Update.....
Starting to think this bike will never be finished(finished in a using it everyday dont have to be mint finished)

Got new Avon rear tyre,Am waiting for another rear spindle off ebay as one in bike is a bit chewed up one end !
so on with new rear sprocket,new nuts to fit too,did them up,all will torque up but one just spins,,,,, so looks like its a new carrier if the threads gone
fitted new chain but just so I can put on front sprockets and then do up front nut,that just spins too ! I hope its just the nut thats knackered !
Cant get the two parts I need for the givi rack ,might have to get them made,so cant fit that.
new front brake hose fitted but cant get it to bleed.Been at it two days now
Centre stand looks like its twisted so new centre stand needed.

Lots of crap/oil around carbs so took off airfilter housing.
Lost of oil/fluid inside air filter housing.common does anybody know ?
one pipe is full up with white gunk so that needs cleaning.
one pipe came off airfilter housing but I dont know where it goes too ? can any help ??

carbs all oiley on the outside so they need a clean.

one job after another with this bike........

[Padster]

What bits do you need for the Givi rack?

[amorti]

Could be an air lock in the master cylinder, cure it by cracking off the banjo bolt until fluid just starts to seep through. Other than that it's time for a new master / rebuild kit.

The pipes - from sat on bike. Front left, drain to ground. Rear mid, junction box for two breathers (rocker box and crankcase) There is a blank hole in the middle of the filter. Two come up off the carbs to vent, but they don't have any "plugs".

The airbox is full due to the full breather pipe that runs rocker box to crankcase. Try clearing it, and make sure it fits tight at the end and has no kinks. My rocker cover breather popped off last week, and blew manky oil over top of the engine - not impressed. Needs a new pipe and spring clip really but I might just blank it off.

Bad luck on the chain threads, really hope you don't need a new output shaft, if a new-to-me bike was giving me that much hassle and then that on top of it, I wouldn't be fixing it. It'd be split and on ebay.

[nobby]

Its the front left one that I couldnt work out where its goers,thanks for info.
I will have another go at bleeding at the weekend,for now I have tied the lever back.

I need the two tapered bushes that go in the end of the frame,givi part numver V051

[nobby]

Update time again,

Got new front sprocket nut today,fitted and this time it torqued up with no probs...phew,so cover on and linkage on.
cleanned out air filter housing and cleanned out pipes.
fitted rear brake hose but then found the inside bleed nipple is rounded off So I bleed the caliper from the other one.will this matter ?

Front brake still wont bleed

found out I need a new inner mudguard complete now !

still cant get the givi items I need to fit rack

As soon as I do one task I find more things to do.

Tried to adjust clutch cable but am not sure,engine end of cable.Do I turn the nut on the right of the adjuster all the way in then pay out slack at the lever end on the bars ?

[amorti]

Tell me about it, I feel your pain! I have had this bike about 3 weeks.

So far: tyres, engine oil+filter, fork oil, lots of cleaning, attempted breathers, broken fairing fasteners, tax.
Today: clutch plates+gasket, hopefully sorted out breathers, loobman, mirror bracket
To do: front disc, steering bearings, speedo cable.

I saw a breaker who had unfortunately already sold the front disc off a divvy he had, and it had 3 snapped bolts from taking them off. I wouldn't be shocked if my bike does it too, the bolts look 45k miles / 10 years worth or untouched.

Always seems to be something.

[taint]

Nobby,

you might need to replace the bleed nipple, it's not that unusual to find the centre is full of carp; which of course blocks it and prevents bleeding. You could also try clearing it with a drill bit (not using a drill though!).

I'm looking at replacing my hoses soon too, but I picked up a set of S/Steel bleed nipples to replace the originals with.

Hope this helps

T.