nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Apr 5, 2008 22:26:25 GMT
Update!!
Had to change complete inner mud guard due to damage.
Finaly got a givi bracket kit.had to get brand new !!
Fitted second hand fairing,I need to change the fairing bracket really but its on.
Second hand head light I got from ebay didnt have a hole for the side light bulb hoder,so I drilled one.
Could not get front brake to bleed manualy,I spend three weekends trying.
In the end took bike to local bike shop who kindly let me use there pressue bleeder.I took about 2 seconds and lever now rock hard! How annoyed was I? but at least its done.
Took bike for a MOT today,had to alter head lamp as the beam was way to low but it passed !!
Phew at last!!!
Bike aint show room condition but its good enough to use in all weathers for work.
One last thing to do,adjust clutch.
When doing this theres the two nuts on the arm comming from the engine casing.
what one is the clamping nut and what one is the adjusting nut?
and what way am I going ?
Clutch is fine until you give it a fist full. then it slips a bit.
help please
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Post by beeblemaster on Apr 6, 2008 8:50:28 GMT
One last thing to do,adjust clutch. When doing this theres the two nuts on the arm comming from the engine casing. what one is the clamping nut and what one is the adjusting nut? and what way am I going ? Clutch is fine until you give it a fist full. then it slips a bit. help please The two nuts just lock each other. You need to slacken off the cable a little, so you're going to be wanting to turn the nuts anti-clockwise. Just make sure the arm on the clutch casing returns back ok. If it does return ok and it's still slipping then let us know and someone else will have to help  |
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Apr 6, 2008 13:41:06 GMT
Right will do,but not today
its snowing here
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Post by pinkunicorn on Apr 6, 2008 17:46:34 GMT
Ooooooh Cant wait to start my motorcycle maintenance classes so I know wot u r all bloody talking about  |
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Post by amorti on Apr 6, 2008 17:53:23 GMT
You want just a little slack at the ball-end of the lever, I think it's 10mm??
My divvy wanted for new clutch plates, probably a symptom of living in towns all its life and the taller gearing meaning more slipping is needed. Or, given it also had a ruined bottom steering bearing, perhaps someone's been doing lots of wheelies on it (LOLz ;D )
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Apr 20, 2008 20:01:53 GMT
Ok so I will loosen off a bit at the engine end.then take the slack up at the lever end.A job for next weekend !!
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Post by darren on Apr 20, 2008 22:32:47 GMT
If it keeps slipping and its an older bike,before changing any clutch plates make sure that the cable has full freedom backwards and forwards through the sleeve, as mine kept slipping but found out the cable was not fully returning, therefor keeping the clutch disengaged
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Apr 26, 2008 19:49:52 GMT
Ok adjusted it today.
As you look at the adjuster on the right hand engine casing and see the two nuts on the cable.
after adjusting nearly all the thread is on the left the right hand nut has only got a few turns to go.
does this mean when it gets to the end its time for a new clutch ?
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Post by amorti on Apr 27, 2008 17:34:23 GMT
Or a new cable.
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Apr 27, 2008 20:19:32 GMT
maybe but there is still adjustment left on the cable.
I will tax it soon and then start using it for work.
Will see how it goes.Will prob try cable first as its cheaper.
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Apr 27, 2008 20:20:55 GMT
While I re ember,
centre stand.
when I putthe bike on the centre stand the back wheel doesnt clear the ground and bike also sits to one side.I tried another centre stand but thats the same.Im thinking the mounting points are kncakered?
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Post by amorti on Apr 27, 2008 20:43:07 GMT
Eh?? You're not so great at the explaining or possibly the listening, as you don't seem to have understood the tips above. If you don't get it, ask again as it's better than guessing.
The clutch mechanism is on a ratchet inside the clutch casing, if it needs to it will adjust itself to compensate for wear. It is a bit worrying when it does, as there is no kind of warning, and all of a sudden the next time you go for the clutch pulling it to the bar will only slip the clutch a bit, not allow you to disengage or change gear. Not ideal!
Don't worry about your clutch until it starts to play up. Your messages are garbled, so I can't tell if it is or not. If it is slipping now, first thing to check is you have freeplay at the lever, then check the cable is returning freely, then and only consider opening the engine up for a look.
Have you understood fully about freeplay? It doesn't sound convincingly like you have (you say you used the adjuster to "take up the slack". It is MEANT to have slack.) Download or buy the Haynes and have a read.
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Post by Padster on Apr 28, 2008 7:17:57 GMT
While I re ember, centre stand. when I putthe bike on the centre stand the back wheel doesnt clear the ground and bike also sits to one side.I tried another centre stand but thats the same.Im thinking the mounting points are kncakered? Both centre stands may be a bit knackered rather than the mounting points. I recently replaced mine and the bike now sits properly on the stand and the rear wheel is clear of the ground. You should also check the rear shock absorber linkage and mounts as these do wear and may allow the swingarm and wheel to sit lower. |
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Post by General Gman on Apr 28, 2008 8:22:46 GMT
Eh?? You're not so great at the explaining or possibly the listening, as you don't seem to have understood the tips above. If you don't get it, ask again as it's better than guessing. The clutch mechanism is on a ratchet inside the clutch casing, if it needs to it will adjust itself to compensate for wear. It is a bit worrying when it does, as there is no kind of warning, and all of a sudden the next time you go for the clutch pulling it to the bar will only slip the clutch a bit, not allow you to disengage or change gear. Not ideal! Don't worry about your clutch until it starts to play up. Your messages are garbled, so I can't tell if it is or not. If it is slipping now, first thing to check is you have freeplay at the lever, then check the cable is returning freely, then and only consider opening the engine up for a look. Have you understood fully about freeplay? It doesn't sound convincingly like you have (you say you used the adjuster to "take up the slack". It is MEANT to have slack.) Download or buy the Haynes and have a read. Quite an abrasive reply.... give the fella a chance - we all had to learn sometime. |
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Post by taint on Apr 28, 2008 8:48:33 GMT
Nobby, the lower rear wheel could also mean that you have a non-standard shock fitted. I know my Hagon is slightly longer than normal; though it doesn't interfere with my centre stand operation.
T.
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Apr 28, 2008 21:19:29 GMT
As far as I can tell bike has a standard shock.I did check the shock mounts a while ago and lubbed them.
As for the stand well I think the brackets on the frame are bent.
The clutch cable is rooted as per yamaha workshop manual.I dont have a haynes only a yamaha manual.
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Post by Dame judgejools44 on Apr 30, 2008 3:32:58 GMT
Eh?? You're not so great at the explaining or possibly the listening, as you don't seem to have understood the tips above. If you don't get it, ask again as it's better than guessing. The clutch mechanism is on a ratchet inside the clutch casing, if it needs to it will adjust itself to compensate for wear. It is a bit worrying when it does, as there is no kind of warning, and all of a sudden the next time you go for the clutch pulling it to the bar will only slip the clutch a bit, not allow you to disengage or change gear. Not ideal! Don't worry about your clutch until it starts to play up. Your messages are garbled, so I can't tell if it is or not. If it is slipping now, first thing to check is you have freeplay at the lever, then check the cable is returning freely, then and only consider opening the engine up for a look. Have you understood fully about freeplay? It doesn't sound convincingly like you have (you say you used the adjuster to "take up the slack". It is MEANT to have slack.) Download or buy the Haynes and have a read. Quite an abrasive reply.... give the fella a chance - we all had to learn sometime. I agree, bit below the belt there. Nobby, we're not far from you so can offer help when you need it....... .................or rather GM does the work and I just come along for the day out! ;D |
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on May 10, 2008 17:52:32 GMT
Got a new cable today.
Seems to have more adjustment available.
Will see how it goes.
How many miles on average does a 600 do?
I use motorways and normal roads on my way to work and I am getting about 140 miles to a tank
about right?
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Post by taint on May 10, 2008 18:37:14 GMT
That's about what I was getting last year on my D6. I've made a number of changes since, so I don't know what I'm currently getting.
I know some of the other members are getting quite a bit more out of the tank.
T.
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Post by amorti on May 10, 2008 19:18:01 GMT
I get at least 175* to reserve. 140 is a bit low, I'd be upset to get that certainly. Sounds like something is amiss? Mine's on an open pipe (does it get more open than remus race for a D6?) so I don't think that bothers the bike much.
*based on thousands of miles of fuel receipts.
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Nov 13, 2008 22:12:14 GMT
I got a taller flip screen off ebay and fitted it today. Much better at keeping the rain off and the wind. Has anybody else got one fitted? I cant get the bike onto the steering lock now as I cant turn the steering far enough because it hits against the mirrors Either the bars are bent or the fairing bracket or Im doing somthing wrong Any ideas |
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Post by amorti on Nov 13, 2008 22:47:20 GMT
I had a taller flip screen. Once you get above about 60, it created horrible turbulence that felt like it was after ripping your head off! The problem is, it directed the windblast straight at the middle of my helmet. The drag affect would literally grab my head and shake it side to side. I'm 5'10", so probably of fairly average biker height, and it was absolutely perfectly wrong - you either need the blast at/ just below your chin, or clean over your head. I chopped about 2 inches off, and it's fine now. You can rotate the bars and hand controls in their clamps until the mirrors clear the screen, but don't do it to the detriment of having proper control. My bike has renthals, so that advice may not be applicable assuming yours doesn't. For later, if/when you realise the tall screen is horrible, you can cut them down quite easily using a junior hacksaw This also solves the clearance issue. I *think* the bars hitting the screen is actually an MOT fail, by the way. |
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Nov 13, 2008 23:50:00 GMT
Take the mirrors of for MOT no fail then mirrors not needed for MOT.
Neil
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Nov 14, 2008 6:17:09 GMT
Thats a good point about MOT time.
I think I will have a poke about and try adjusting the bars first.
If thats no good then I do have another fairing craddle in the shed so may change that and see how it goes.
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Post by Padster on Nov 14, 2008 9:59:20 GMT
I have fitted a taller screen and had to adjust the mirrors so as not to hit. As I am rather wide the view is a bit restricted so I have ordered some mirror extenders. They will move the mirror mounts 60mm further out so will hopefully solve the problem. For a while I had CG125 mirrors on and they did give a reasonable view but look odd on the D9.
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Post by darren on Nov 14, 2008 13:14:00 GMT
Make sure you do an oil change and filter, crap oil can give poor clutch performance
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Nov 23, 2008 13:21:44 GMT
Going back to milage to a tank full of fuel,
I been getting about 120-130 miles per tank.
So I tried this first,going to work keeping speed down from 70-100 to 60 max.going home at usual speed.
this gave 150 miles to a tank full!!
So am now trying keeping speeds down to 60 even on motorways.
this is still on going but so far upto 160 miles to a tank and i havent got to reserve yet.Im hoping it will get to 170.
then i will keep this up for a couple of tanks to see how it goes.
after then i think getting carbs balanced and see what that brings.
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Nov 29, 2008 20:31:55 GMT
160-165 miles seems to be no problem when riding careful and not letting the revs go too high.
Sticking to about 60mph on motorways etc seems to be about right.
When it comes to change chain and sprockets I will alter sprockets to lower revs.
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Post by amorti on Dec 1, 2008 0:21:02 GMT
I typically get 160-165 before reserve, standard gears, remus straight through pipe, otherwise standard. It's more about how quickly you ride rather than how fast you ride, don't forget.
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nobby
Boy Racer
Posts: 164
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Post by nobby on Dec 3, 2008 23:24:26 GMT
forgot to mention,
I also got the centre stand prob fixed.
The prob was when bike was on centre stand the back wheel was stil on the ground !!
I changed two stands and it was still the same.
So the other day I took the bike to my mates workshop,got the bike on a ramp and we had a look,in the end we weleded a bit of metal to the stand.
and now when on centre stand the back wheel is off the ground !!!
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