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Post by m40man on Jul 17, 2018 22:11:02 GMT
Come on - spill - I need to know who the phantom mechanic is! I've known this esteemed member for many years, & he has always denied this slur upon his good name. He's great. |
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Post by spike240 on Jul 18, 2018 7:06:02 GMT
The penny has finally dropped - ker -klunk! I had my suspicions. I also think he's great.
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Post by craigfell on Aug 6, 2018 16:52:47 GMT
Dropped the rear drivetrain, broke it & squished the oil over flow thing   Bought this replacement which is pretty mint.  Bought this to delete the oil cooler, unsure if it will work.  Engine is going back in as is, will be buying oil & filter payday & trying to get some life out of it. Bit of motivation from you lot, cheers! |
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Post by spike240 on Aug 7, 2018 6:13:46 GMT
Does this mean the build is back on???
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Post by veemax on Aug 7, 2018 11:17:23 GMT
`IP `IP `OORAY! It lookie like de man wiv de spanners, im come back!!!!!!!
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Post by craigfell on Aug 7, 2018 14:10:55 GMT
Engines in this morning. Took me a good 2 hours using nothing but wood blocks to balance it & the engine dolly I made.. there must be an easier way but It was a pain in the bum to do myself with no lift/jack. Need to buy some nuts & bolts. It's back on, until I spit my dummy out again.. I just want to see it run!  |
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Post by spike240 on Aug 7, 2018 21:35:39 GMT
Great to see you back Craig. What was the problem wi forks (oil leakage)?
I am looking forward to watch your progress.
Atb.
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Post by craigfell on Aug 9, 2018 13:50:36 GMT
No idea spike, if I compress them a few times it stops but after a few weeks they leak again.. might be just cheap seals?
If I can't sort it using a seal mate I'll buy genuine & chuck them in.
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Post by spike240 on Aug 9, 2018 19:58:53 GMT
Did you see my post earlier about installing the seals upside down?
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Post by craigfell on Aug 10, 2018 14:11:28 GMT
  I'm.pretty sure they're the right way, but now I'm second guessing it.. |
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Post by spike240 on Aug 11, 2018 7:06:12 GMT
Only reason I mentioned it originally, I had been watching a video on Youtube (Delboys Garage). He says when you take the old seals out, compare the orientation with the new seals, as it is very easy to install them the wrong way round - and if you do - they will definitely leak.
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Post by craigfell on Aug 11, 2018 20:26:59 GMT
Big fan of delboys garage, thats pretty much where I got the confidence to take this on.. seals are the right way, plus they haven't leaked for the first 6 months.. god knows! Something I'll ponder on once it's running.
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Post by spike240 on Aug 12, 2018 6:41:47 GMT
Ok mate. In general scheme of things, its a minor issue really. Keep at it pal.  |
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Post by Greendivvy Beeb on Aug 12, 2018 11:54:00 GMT
Engines in this morning. Took me a good 2 hours using nothing but wood blocks to balance it & the engine dolly I made.. there must be an easier way but It was a pain in the bum to do myself with no lift/jack. Need to buy some nuts & bolts. It's back on, until I spit my dummy out again.. I just want to see it run! I,ve recently put the engine back in my Kawasaki Zephyr, did it by sitting the engine on it's side on my best duvet  then lowering the frame over the engine trying not to scratch the paint. Then rolled the frame and engine back up straight. Duvet will require a clean or may just put a dark cover on it  Was the fork bearings and stanchions in good order? Could try running a thin sliver a smooth plastic cut out of a milk bottle around the seals between the stanchions and seals in case something is stuck to the lip of the seal. |
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Post by craigfell on Aug 20, 2018 9:36:18 GMT
  Chucked some bits on purely out of boredom.. Also, £503.31 New drive train +£35 Oil Cooler delete +£11 £549.31 |
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Post by craigfell on Aug 20, 2018 19:46:39 GMT
   So I decided to keep adding stuff so I could see what I needed, what nuts & bolts ect. Remembered I need a new airbox, rear brake line, IF the calipers haven't seized yet (doubt it) they'll do for now, front & rear pads, clutch cable, choke cable, exhaust gaskets, discs all round, tyres. If it goes to plan & the tank hasn't rusted through yet. Just waiting on the casing gasket at the moment, then payday will be oil & filter & plugs.. in hindsight looking at the photos, leaving those fork seal dust covers up wasn't very bright. Doh! |
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Post by craigfell on Aug 27, 2018 14:37:28 GMT
Got the engine casing gasket for £12 from wemoto, Fitted & torqued bolts to 12nm as per haynes.  Oil Seal from Ebay. 12X22X5  Some red rubber grease over a piece of plastic to stop it catching on the shaft splines. Looks like a dogs dangly.   While doing this i realised i forgot to put this in   I'd lie your opinions on cutting the tips of these off & JB welding the holes up, instead of just capping them off? +£12 gasket +£2.15 oil seal £563.46 |
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Post by spike240 on Aug 27, 2018 18:27:58 GMT
Not an expert mate, but I think welding them might be a bit OTT. 15mm copper pipe fits on there nice. Just solder an end cap onto maybe 30mm piece of the afformentioned then tap it onto them there pipes. You may have to open the 15mm pipe up a little, but not that much. think I used a bit of sealant too. I don't think there is any pressure - if anything I think it is sucking - oo-er mrs.
Nice little tip fitting that oil seal btw.
Nice to see you still at it.
atb
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Post by craigfell on Aug 29, 2018 17:09:18 GMT
Not an expert mate, but I think welding them might be a bit OTT. It's not really welding.. it's more mixing some gum together & filling a hole  |
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Post by craigfell on Aug 29, 2018 17:13:51 GMT
   Fitted the rubber cover on the swingarm, torqued up the suspension bolts & swing arm bolts ect. Painted some bits, made a bad washing line.. bits slid onto the pegs, left a mark, no big deal.  Found the gear selector & fitted that, selected gears, eventually got back to neutral. |
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Post by craigfell on Aug 31, 2018 18:56:42 GMT
    Some more photos, found a break/burn in the loom. Nuts & bolts £9.55 Oil +£24.50 Oil Filter +£4.99 Spark plugs +£8.40 Fuel filter +£5.40 JB weld £6.60 (unsure on that) £622.90 |
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Post by craigfell on Sept 11, 2018 18:53:20 GMT
So a week I've been pratting about with the starter motor, the plastic washers that sit either side of the live disintergrated when i removed them, since then ive not been able to get it to turn it's just been shorting out. Tonight after many many disassemble & reassemblys, it works! So I chucked it on & turned the bike over on the button. The only thing is, I've no clue why it worked this time..  |
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Post by craigfell on Sept 13, 2018 6:19:52 GMT
Sorted the broken wires last night, also have the issue where I have to wiggle the right switchgear connector block to get it to work, got no spark, checked the Coils & leads, spark plug caps. All tested within tolerance. Tested the earth that goes off into the loom from the coils, to the battery & engine, got nothing.. Will look into it tonight. Probably more corrosion to sort.  |
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Post by craigfell on Sept 16, 2018 1:53:56 GMT
Browsing Copart this eve at work..  |
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Post by craigfell on Sept 19, 2018 17:27:57 GMT
Still no spark, finding lots of corrosion in the loom but no cure. Brother brought a power probe & fed the coil with a live & we did see a spark.
Got a local chap called Steve tried my CDI/ignitor on his bike & it fired right up (thanks steve). So CDI is good.
Checked earths, also checked timing rotor sensor, gives readings when turning over as if it's recording something.
My heads sore from all this scratching!
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Post by Greendivvy Beeb on Sept 22, 2018 17:51:15 GMT
Are your switches working and connected correctly, side stand/clutch/neutral and the engine shut off switch. May take a while  keep checking all the connections. I wouldn't have liked to have been the rider on that 900 on Copart should think they came to an abrupt stop to buckle the front wheel like that.  |
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Post by craigfell on Oct 14, 2018 17:08:19 GMT
Bridged the clutch & side stand switches.
Neutral switch shows neutral on dash, I'm not sure how else it could be faulty.. When you select gear the N light goes out.
Engine shut off switch stops the bike turning over when switched so I'm pretty sure it's not that, can also hear the relay clicking when toggling too.
I thought I replied to this ages ago, must've missed the send button.
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Post by Greendivvy Beeb on Oct 15, 2018 15:20:08 GMT
Hi Craig With the ignition turned on you should be getting 12 volts to the red/black wires on the coils. Have you got power going to the CDI unit? should be the red/white wire in the 6 pin plug going to the CDI the earth wire black should be next to it. The blue/black wire which is next to the blue/red wire in the eight pin plug on the CDI goes to the key switch then clutch lever and side stand switches. The Skyblue wire(as listed on the wiring diagram) next to the yellow/black wire in the same eight pin plug goes to the neutral switch. Checked that these wires are going to earth at the CDI harness plug. Sounds like a bad connection somewhere. You could always try running jumper wires in on the blue/black and skyblue wires straight to the battery earth to eliminate the harness and see if you get a spark. The orange and gray wires in the six pin plug go to the coils. Failing that you could always try kicking it sometimes helps |
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Post by craigfell on Oct 19, 2018 12:06:20 GMT
Got 12v at the Coils & at the CDI, blue/black & sky blue wire both go to earth from CDI with 0.00 resistance.
Thinking about buying a crank pick up sensor just to rule it out.
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Post by kawasakiinit on Nov 5, 2018 22:18:18 GMT
just seen this thread and enjoyed looking at pics and reading ,that is a top job mate ,some bloody good work done there . keep going |
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then lowering the frame over the engine trying not to scratch the paint. Then rolled the frame and engine back up straight. Duvet will require a clean or may just put a dark cover on it 
keep checking all the connections. 
