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Post by craigfell on Apr 12, 2017 19:27:57 GMT
Hello, Thanks for having me I'm Craig & this is My Diversion 900 i was given for free. It has 73,000 miles & has been sat for close to 3 years. It's missing the rear shock, exhaust cans, Pillion Grab handles & Various bolts. Needs the front discs replacing, possibly the calipers servicing or replacing, the missing bolts replacing, rust re painting, tyres, oil, carbs servicing, fork seals. I'm not sure if there is anything else that's just off the top of my head. Oh & a battery. This will be a Slow project, the girlfriend being on maternity means moneys is tight, but it will get there! Pictures. & A picture next to my zx7r
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Post by m40man on Apr 12, 2017 19:56:01 GMT
Welcome aboard, Craig. That D9 does look a bit sorry! Good luck with the tidy-up, should keep you busy for a while .
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Post by bev on Apr 12, 2017 20:05:53 GMT
Almost as bad as mine when I started. Post up how you're getting on with it.
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Post by cam7777 on Apr 13, 2017 7:23:53 GMT
You certainly have your work cut out! I restored a similar example in 2015, maybe time to invest in an impact wrench Take plenty of pictures and post your progress.
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Post by showaddydadito on Apr 13, 2017 11:26:50 GMT
You'll probably want to mow the seat a bit too.
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Post by craigfell on Apr 13, 2017 14:24:03 GMT
Aye the Seat came with free mold So i got a quick 10 minutes to try get the ignition turned as it was solid.. got that to the ON position Same for the seat lock, took a lot of wiggling and turning but it popped eventually & i found 2 surprises under it! The pillion handles. Not much but one less thing to buy! Also more rust around the tank.. worst is where the seat meets the tank there was some mold there holding water.. Im also having trouble getting the fuel cap open, tried gentle persuasion but i'm not confident & don't want to break the keys. Of which there are 2.. i know the ignition & seat lock are different but i'm not sure which matches the fuel cap. I also pumped the tyres up. Just to make it easier to move, but its going to be a Pain in the backside until i get a shocker. so that's first on my list i think. I should really HPI check it. I do have a logbook for it, but if i spend moneys on it to find out its a CAT B or something i wont be happy!
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 13, 2017 16:31:32 GMT
Does that say 'scrap' on the green key fob !?
Same key should fit all locks.
Good luck with it.
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Post by craigfell on Apr 13, 2017 17:32:12 GMT
Does that say 'scrap' on the green key fob !? Same key should fit all locks. Good luck with it. Yes it does It was my managers spares bike.. got a bet on to have it MOT'd by the time he retires in February.
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Post by craigfell on Apr 14, 2017 14:38:32 GMT
So i got the fuel cap open. It's very orange, the hinge on the actual flap i had to blast with WD40, it was solid. I also put some around the rubber seal to try loosen it up a bit. Wonder if this is IRN BRU draining it anyway. will have to see if its rust on the inside somewhere then buy a replacement. The tank is not leaking but its a state, could be worse i suppose. Rusty.
Someone drilled holes for the shock top bolt.
These wires i'm not sure if they are part of the oem loom or if a cowboys put them in.. They could be something to do with these I stuck a battery on hit the starter just to see if it would turn over & this fuse popped. as you can be seen the fuse box has been tie wrapped in so i need to sort stuff like that. front fairing needs to come off so i can trace them wires, either to them horns or maybe something else, heated grips? God knows! Sorry for the pictures, if i'm over doing it just say.
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 14, 2017 14:56:42 GMT
Good grief, you've got your work cut out! Wires are not Oem, as you suspect I would say they go to the air horns. Drilling a hole for access to the top shock bolt is common practice, only one attempt to drill a hole is usually enough Pics explain things so much better, keep 'em coming.
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Post by craigfell on Apr 15, 2017 13:47:26 GMT
Measure once drill twice Today i had an hour with it, decided to see if i could spin the engine before i went any further with the wires. Knocked it into gear, pushed it off its stand, totally forgot it didn't have a shock in & clunk. Landed on the piece of wood i'd had there for transporting it, i got lucky i guess. So it took me about 40 minutes to get it back up the things heavy as F***. I wasn't best impressed with myself either! After i get it back on its stand i notice a drip of Oil coming from above the centre stand. Exhibit A Any advice on the leak before i start google'in? Hooked the battery up, hit the starter & engine turned itself over. Probably should've tried by hand, but i was a bit frustrated. Anyway back to chasing the wires, started to strip the front fairing off then realized i didn't have a spanner for behind the indicators. So this is how i left it, called into my dads for a tool box full of any old S***, on my way to work.
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Post by craigfell on Apr 16, 2017 16:59:20 GMT
Got the front off. Air Horn That's where the wires went to, gonna have a go see what they sound like, if they work, if i like them i'll clean them & keep them on. Noticed corrosion in every plug i have separated so far so gonna have to clean all them or replace.
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Post by craigfell on Apr 17, 2017 14:12:28 GMT
Got the back wheel off, this bar was a pain in the arse with limited socket extensions & s*** spanners. What are these for? Nice.Carbs, throttle wouldn't spin. i thought it was because the cables were snagged but it appears to be all solid rust. Rear caliper both bleed nipples came free quite easily but the one where the brake hose goes was broken, came out easy enough though so need a new one. Air box was a pain from the off, most of the screws just crumbled, got the NUT off the big bolt through the swingarm but couldn't move the actual bolt in any way, gonna get my brothers impact gun. Not looking forward to removing them carbs!
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Post by Greendivvy Beeb on Apr 17, 2017 17:17:27 GMT
Got a mission on there, It's a green one so it's worth doing The oil coming out of the gaitor on the swing arm looks more like rusty water but the best thing would be to remove the swing arm which shouldn't take much and check the yoke seal on the out put shaft. Does the engine turn over manually?
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Post by craigfell on Apr 17, 2017 20:36:46 GMT
Green? All I see is rust!
That's a very good point, although I did dip my fingers in it & it felt thicker than water.. Soon find out when I pick the impact gun up!
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Post by craigfell on Apr 18, 2017 14:42:59 GMT
Few hours on it this morning.Got the shaft drained & out, not alot of oil came out, in fact hardly any. This is how i left it Because i couldn't figure this out It turns both ways but only a little bit then is solid. I've no idea what im doing with it, it snapped my best allen key Also got this off my brother which should be a big help
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Post by craigfell on Apr 18, 2017 14:46:51 GMT
Is this normal? Its not much, trying to get all the help i can to be honest!
Sorry about the lack of camera & wiggling shaft at the same time skills.
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Post by craigfell on Apr 19, 2017 14:34:16 GMT
MoarSo after taking the right rear set off, i was able to leaver the swing arm over so i had enough room to get it over the bolt. Left me with this, the bearing housing is hanging & there is nothing left of it. The bolt just un-screwed into the frame Made abit of a mess of the swing arm trying the knock the bearing race out Tried smoothing it out with a dremel & bits, not sure on that. My own fault though. Not tried to get the other out, didn't want to damage further. Started to strip everything else off, only 2 bolts stuck so far. I'm not sure how far to go with it to be honest, There is rust everywhere & powder coating the frame has crossed my mind. I dunno! Is it worth it? probably not! Does it give me something to keep me busy, definitely. This is a first for me, learning as i go on ect. Comments & advice is much appreciated, even if it is how much of a mess i've made!
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Post by m40man on Apr 19, 2017 17:58:49 GMT
Is that a rusted-through hole in the frame, above the swing-arm bolt hole ?
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Post by craigfell on Apr 20, 2017 9:11:45 GMT
Just been out to check! No holes, must've been a shadow.
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Post by spike240 on Apr 20, 2017 11:50:32 GMT
Hi there Craig. When I first saw this post, thoughts of pi**ing up a slanted plank sprang to mind. But I am thoroughly enjoying it so far. With that much rust about - I would check the frame carefully before you spend time or money on it. Last time I looked on Ebay there was loads of swing arms and you may be able to source a frame (cheaper than renovating that one. I fear you may have your work cut out on several fronts for example the carbs - if they are that knackered looking on the outside, you can bet the inside will be tatered too - and no amount of cleaning will bring them back. Sorry for sounding so negative. But I hope you keep at it and win your bet. you know the strangest thing? The best part of that bike is the centre stand - and these are known to be made of cheese and yours looks brand new! Anyway I am routing for ya - and please keep the commentry and pics coming. ATB
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Post by craigfell on Apr 20, 2017 14:41:42 GMT
Thanks for the feedback spike! It wasn't negative it's the truth, I've been worrying about the carbs & I think it's something I'll end up buying.
The frame I'm trying to get as much as possible off it then attack it with a drill & wire wheel.
Spied a black frame on eBay previously powered coated for £95.. but it's money I don't have at the minute.
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Post by craigfell on Apr 22, 2017 7:22:26 GMT
No progress, had a few days off & the better half was moaning about me spending time in the garage. Last thing i did was start to pull the loom out, then my brother who is a good mechanic said, stop that put it all back, hear the engine run before you buy anything for it, even if its by putting fuel in the cylinders. Anyway i started putting it back but with no power in the garage yet & no extension soon as the sun goes behind the garage it gets dark fast! So i used it as a little bit of security for the good bike in there.
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Post by Greendivvy Beeb on Apr 25, 2017 18:24:55 GMT
The shaft play looks fine. You shouldn't have any oil in the swing arm where the shaft runs, the oil is only in the final drive.
Personally I'd strip the bike and make some money selling the good bits. It needs a lot of work to tidy it up and even get it on the road.
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Post by craigfell on Apr 25, 2017 19:24:29 GMT
I know I should do that.. But it gives me something to do.
Anyways, stuck all the loom back on battery in & nothing, not even the headlight bulb lit up. Been back through all the connections photos I took all in the right place, checked fuses all good. I must be missing an earth or something.
I'll find it.
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Post by m40man on Apr 25, 2017 20:01:11 GMT
I know I should do that.. But it gives me something to do. Indeed. Ignore the naysayer! ........... also, what good bits does it actually have, to make breaking it worthwhile ?
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 25, 2017 21:33:03 GMT
........... also, what good bits does it actually have, Thats it, look on the bright side
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Post by craigfell on Apr 26, 2017 8:32:43 GMT
I know I should do that.. But it gives me something to do. Indeed. Ignore the naysayer! ........... also, what good bits does it actually have, to make breaking it worthwhile ? The best thing on it so far is the center stand, hasn't failed me yet!
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Post by m40man on Apr 26, 2017 9:45:53 GMT
The best thing on it so far is the center stand, hasn't failed me yet! I can sense the baying mob on here just waiting for the "I've decided to break it" thread .
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Post by bev on Apr 26, 2017 11:34:14 GMT
It's probably worse than the one I've almost finished, but not much. Don't give up, most of it is a bit of hard work and effort. I spent about £300 total so far on bits. I've spent a great deal of time drilling and grinding snapped or seized bolts and rust. Replaced. Swingarm (with new bearings) brake disks all round, rear shockie, lower shock linkage, calliper refurb. still got to drill out a few sheared brake disk screws. ground back rusty frame and repainted where required. Stick at it
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