|
|
Post by amorti on May 30, 2014 23:47:10 GMT
Evening all! Some of you may remember me as a terminal tinkerer, bodger, etc. from many years ago. Back then when I traded my '97 600S up to a 955i Daytona, I swore I wouldn't have another Divvy, even if someone gave one to me. Well, I lied. Someone gave one to me. and I took it. I still have the feeling I may have been ripped off! It's a '98+ since it has the twin discs. At least, it will have better forks and brakes than my '97 did, which may remedy two of my bigger dislikes of that bike. It is burgundy more or less, but the paint is in shocking condition. It has @85,000km on it (did I mention I live in Gibraltar now?) and I have no papers with it. Seems a fella had it here, had to leave back for UK, and left it at a bike shop to sell on. That trade never saw the papers change hands. It then suffered a pretty catastrophic sprocket bearing collapse on the mechanical novice who bought it, who just bought another bike. So it got put in the shed waiting to be fixed. Some years later it got given to my mate, who stripped it to spare parts for cleaning with a plan to 'fighter it. He's now given it to me, after having it sit around in pieces for a whole year since he last touched it. Assuming I can sort out the papers! I will then own another Divvy, but have no idea what to do with it. In this condition and with so many km on it it isn't going to be worth much, but might make a good hack. It needs a new rear wheel and carrier bearing and seal kit, lots of degreaser and some rear pads (£44 spent so far in buying those parts off the mate who gave me the bike), a rear disc, battery, front pads probably as the calipers are greasy now, and some work on one of the collector joints. Plus all the exhaust gaskets, an oil and filter change and any sundries. That *should* just about cover it... I'd be surprised if I can't get it roadworthy for £200 anyway. The tyres are ok and the chain is fine too, which is explained by the amount of chain grease over the whole bike. The bike will first be built up to see if it runs before I spend anything more on it. Anyways, not much more to tell, but a few pictures to show.  As delivered...  Bit of cleaning... Been thinking about a vinyl wrap in white. The paint is really quite bad, with chips, scratches and cracked panels all over the place. Or, it might get a spraycan of matt black. Or maybe even a brushcan of blackboard paint. Seen it done and it kinda works on rats. Who knows?! |
|
|
|
Post by neilmud Lord Protector on May 31, 2014 7:58:17 GMT
Dont recognise the bit between the swinging arm & footrest hangers is it the turbo fan  Neil |
|
|
|
Post by m40man on May 31, 2014 8:25:32 GMT
Welcome back, good to see you here  . I've never had a 'posh' one with the twin discs - I'm told the braking isn't that different from the singles but it looks like you're a way off finding out for a bit  . Don't be stingy with the pics, & get the old girl resurrected at least to the point of running & road-worthy . Technical tip for you: You might need more than a bucket & sponge  . |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on May 31, 2014 9:33:10 GMT
Welcome back, good to see you here . I've never had a 'posh' one with the twin discs - I'm told the braking isn't that different from the singles but it looks like you're a way off finding out for a bit . Don't be stingy with the pics, & get the old girl resurrected at least to the point of running & road-worthy . Technical tip for you: You might need more than a bucket & sponge . Cheers, good to see familiar faces. The braking on my old one was pretty good once I fitted the 1/2" master cylinder This is a relatively urgent project. I am moving by 18th July, so it has to be at least a roller by then! I'll add pics as I take them but right now there's not much to see! Most everything except the engine and frame (which had been cleaned) was caked in chain grease, which I'm gradually removing until you're able to pick things up with bare hands forproper cleaning. Bucket and sponge wouldn't touch the caked-on shite around most of this bike. Including, bizzarely, the underside of the front mudguard! I've got a secret weapon, which is weapons-grade engine degreaser in an aerosol can. Smells and works like Gunk so I guess that's what it is. I did notice it has some lovely green "patina" around the blue wire going into the relay pack. I remember it being a common fault, but don't remember what happens when it goes high resistance or breaks? |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on May 31, 2014 10:06:06 GMT
....... actually I hadn't realised I'd created this board allowing non-members to post . I'd better fix that . Please do tidy the thread up, chief |
|
|
|
Post by m40man on May 31, 2014 10:18:11 GMT
....... actually I hadn't realised I'd created this board allowing non-members to post . I'd better fix that . Please do tidy the thread up, chief Done - well, apart from this post & the one previous . |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on May 31, 2014 17:09:47 GMT
Welcome back. I was recently wondering where you'd disappeared to. The Forum needs a few bodgers. |
|
|
|
Post by neilmud Lord Protector on May 31, 2014 18:00:34 GMT
Welcome back.I was recently wondering where you'd disappeared to. The Forum needs a few bodgers. Martin aint gone away  Neil |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on May 31, 2014 18:07:41 GMT
Welcome back.I was recently wondering where you'd disappeared to. The Forum needs a few bodgers. Martin aint gone away Neil True, I meant bodgers who don't have bits falling off. |
|
|
|
Post by pilgrim on Jun 1, 2014 10:50:13 GMT
Welcome back Amorti!  |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2014 11:12:19 GMT
The biggest problem with these 'freebies' is the cost of getting them back on the road, which can escalate if you don't have a strict budget.
Parts can soon add up and far exceed what the bike is actually worth.
|
|
|
|
Post by m40man on Jun 1, 2014 11:55:58 GMT
Can't argue with Ori- but resurrecting old bikes is seldom anything to do with seeking value for money. You do it because you want to . |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 1, 2014 12:05:29 GMT
Welcome back Amorti! Cheers, pigrim The biggest problem with these 'freebies' is the cost of getting them back on the road, which can escalate if you don't have a strict budget. Parts can soon add up and far exceed what the bike is actually worth. Don't worry, there is absolutely minimal risk of that happening, I won't let it. The rear brake disc is fecked , that has to be replaced but can wait til I know the bike runs. £27 posted from China. Rear pads to match the new disc were £5 posted. The sprocket carrier bearing is pictured below as old vs. new, I think you'd have to agree it was essential. It turned out cheaper to get a whole kit at £23.50 than to get the sprocket bearing plus the seals, so anyone want to buy the 3 wheel bearings (that's if mine are good)? The oil was drained when the oil cooler was taken off and needs filling and a filter. Cheapest I can find locally will go in there. The battery is dead but I have one which will fit to test if it runs. Should be about 30€. The front pads might be contaminated with grease. There's meat on them though so I'll see if they can be cleaned, otherwise it's £16 for two pair. Other than that, it's getting pennies not pounds. For example the seat panel on the RHS is cracked as you like. It'll be getting left like that until (maybe) I treat it to a 99p panel off eBay. It's surprisingly decent under the thick layer of shite, and even has useable tyres and chain. Plugs? Air filter? Fuel filter? Nah, they're getting left alone.  See? I'm thinking like a Scotsman here. |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 2, 2014 0:09:55 GMT
Cans before washing and with one washed and one polished.   One of them needs some welding or I might try this kit and just cover over the bit which is missing. Cleaning is going well, there's not too much left to do now really. I need to:
[*]wipe down the loom and I think a little repair will be necessary on one or two terminals on the relay pack. It's a common fault as it's in the splash of the back wheel.
[*]clean up the wheels
[*]wash the main fairing
[*]maybe take off the stands and degrease them or maybe not bother
[*]drill out one of the rear master cylinder bolts which is rounded out, and both front master cap screws which are rounded.
That's about it really, everything else is clean (enough). I reckon the fairing frame will be brush painted with some leftover silver hammerite. The rear caliper is seized, I can see dust seals poking out which ain't right. That'll be more awkward since the previous keeper separated the master cylinder and caliper. I'll need to bleed it before I can pump out the pistons. That will likely also get silver hammerite.  The front calipers came up OK though.  And here's a picture from the previous keeper where it looked more like a motorcycle.  Current schedule: finish cleaning the cycle parts tomorrow; previous keeper is coming over on Tuesday with some missing parts (air cleaner, mid side panels, screws) and to help put the engine back in the frame. After the engine and frame are reunited, it'll be time to clean the loom up, grease the neck bearings and then time for reassembly! Once I know it works, then I'll think about refurbing the back caliper, the struggle which is going to be the back disc swap (I snapped 5/6 bolts last time I tried that on a divvy, the other one rounded out) and whatever else it wants. I'm kind of ignoring the seat. It used to look like this:  ... but was uncovered and I now just have the base and foam. Fair enough considering the state of it.  |
|
|
|
Post by showaddydadito on Jun 2, 2014 6:54:59 GMT
I did notice it has some lovely green "patina" around the blue wire going into the relay pack. I remember it being a common fault, but don't remember what happens when it goes high resistance or breaks? Absolutely nothing happens. That's the problem. |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 2, 2014 10:21:40 GMT
I did notice it has some lovely green "patina" around the blue wire going into the relay pack. I remember it being a common fault, but don't remember what happens when it goes high resistance or breaks? Absolutely nothing happens. That's the problem. Bugger. It's still attached but just look at it.  |
|
|
|
Post by showaddydadito on Jun 2, 2014 15:58:16 GMT
This reminds me that I cobbled mine up with a spare bit of wire and some tape about 8 months ago - must get round to doing it properly.
|
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 2, 2014 20:45:44 GMT
Some stuff just shouldn't wear out like that. wtf?   |
|
|
|
Post by bigmick1981 on Jun 3, 2014 7:18:42 GMT
My clutch lever is doing the same at 43k .... not quite as bad but still gives to much play
|
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 3, 2014 9:23:28 GMT
My clutch lever is doing the same at 43k .... not quite as bad but still gives to much play This happened as well on my old Divvy, which had about 65k miles on it (starship!) I worked out that the clutch has an 8mm (7mm maybe?) plain bearing, facing onto only the soft alloy of the lever itself. On my previous bike, a Honda CB-1, there was a 10mm (maybe 12mm?) pivot bolt, and the lever had a bronze bush in it to reduce wear. Built down to a price, you say? Anyway, on that one I fitted a Honda clutch and was much happier with the clutch and gearchange after that. I'll keep an eye out for eBay bargains - once I know if the bike runs! |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 3, 2014 21:36:11 GMT
The previous keeper came round today with the air cleaner and to help put the engine in... but turns out the bolts for that are still at his place somewhere. Meh. Also, cleaning the loom is going to take a while. But at least the pins pop out easily enough, kitchen scouring pad cleans them, and silicon grease should save them for future generations to enjoy... Mmm, verdi gris...  Sticky indicator switch, sadly the parts inside are worn due to the wrong grease getting in there, probably on purpose. There will never be a satisfying click here again, but at least it works.  Dirty! My new secret weapon is silicon grease and a rag, gets even stuff like this sleeving not only clean but shiny.  Other recent victories include freeing up a completely seized choke cable, clean[enough]ing the wheels and some other odds and ends. Getting there now, but there seems to be a constant stream of little bits. |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 4, 2014 20:00:42 GMT
Turns out the loom is a bit of a state. How can a whole bike be coated in grease, just except the electrical plugs? And do you know exactly how many plugs and therefore pin terminals there are on a 600 diversion? Well me neither, but it must be in the millions. Even though it's not Fi and doesn't have a radiator, there are "enough" relays, and electrical carb heaters, hazard lights, and whatnot. Anyway, I got fed up with metal brushing every frickin' terminal off, but luckily SCIENCE came to my rescue, in the shape of a sammich bag full of vinegar. GO SCIENCE!     In the end it's still not perfect, but should at least conduct without (intermittent) issues. Then of course follow up with a slathering of silicon grease in the plug. And here's the end of the story for the blue wire of doom  Very common fault on the divvy. "You lot" reckon it's due to water splash of the rear wheel but why is it always this one and only this one that gives out? It's something to do with the starter circuit, there is a wire the same colour that triggers the solenoid. I think it's got either too much power for a 2.8mm plug going through it, or that there is something else going on maybe with leakage back through the circuit. Anyway, new plug and silicon grease is all I can (be arsed to) do.  There are a bunch of plugs with only black wires going in to them at the end of the loom. I am guessing it's for a factory alarm? Anyways there are some wires there that aren't attached to anything, and I am going to cut a length out and use the clean wire and plug into the relay connector to replace the broken bit In case anyone finds themselves lost, there are lots of pictures of connector blocks showing how the wires fit in here. |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 4, 2014 22:20:27 GMT
+1 repair, level up!   That's that done, now.  And have a gecko, because I have one in my living room and am not sure what else to do with it. Never had one invite it itself inside the house before.  Been photo-whoring it a bit today, eh? Well, there are two reasons. Firstly I've done a little more than just scrape / brush / wipe sh*tty grease off things, and secondly I have had hands more or less clean enough to pick my phone up with. |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 5, 2014 22:12:46 GMT
Here's what happens if you leave some really mucky engine mounting bolts in a bag of cider vinegar for an hour or so, then just give them a wipe with a cloth. Images are all 4 soaked with 2 before and 2 after a wipe. They looked worse before soaking but you get the idea.  Dodgy old chain? How about a toothbrush, some time and elbow grease and some thick grease - followed (for a change) by wiping down with a rag? Before and after.   I swore not to polish anything on this bike, but I reckon it made a nice difference. Sorry for the dodgy phone pic.  Now for something which might or might not be worrying. Why can I see a ring of red around the sump plug??  |
|
|
|
Post by moo on Jun 6, 2014 17:43:35 GMT
Looks like silicone sealant... Probably means no copper washer. Mine had some bright green stuff around it  |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 6, 2014 18:56:10 GMT
Looks like silicone sealant... Probably means no copper washer. Mine had some bright green stuff around it Turns out you're right! That's good news anyway, and the thread looks good.  I still don't have the long bolt for the back of the engine, but I have the engine more or less bolted in the frame now  Blunt drill bits won't do much on this bolt, the one I am pointing to.  After drilling these screws out, usually I've found you can just twist the remains out. Not this time. This could be trash  The steering bearings are slightly worn, but a bit of grease (the bottom was more or less dry) and they'll doofer. |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 8, 2014 21:33:10 GMT
Today I decided that I was fed up with a motorbike in boxes. So this happened.  That was about when I realised I don't have the m12 bolt that holds the top shock mount together. The nut is there (looks like it anyway) but not the bolt. Also I don't have the rear engine bolt so the front ones will need easing off to allow the engine into position... but anyway, point is...  At least it looks more like a bike now Now it's pretty much time to get a bottle of oil, a filter, some copper washers for the oil cooler, exhaust gaskets, plus whatever else. And fit the rest of what's needed to make it run, including rebuilding those carbs. I am a bit worried as to what might be missing from there. |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 9, 2014 21:15:02 GMT
Electrics are in, fuel pump and filter, bars, switches, cables, test-fitted fairings, etc. Got to get the carbs built and on, then it'll be nearly there for firing up.  |
|
|
|
Post by m40man on Jun 9, 2014 22:26:23 GMT
You're not hanging about then ? |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 9, 2014 22:58:00 GMT
You're not hanging about then ? Nope, no point in staring at it for ages! There are sticking points though. The front master, rear caliper, RHS silencer joining section, missing engine and shock bolts... all these are problems still to be overcome. None of those things will stop me from starting the engine though, which is (if it starts) where I start to put funds into it. So far my total outlay was £40 to the previous owner for the bearings and rear pads he'd already bought as a sweetener to getting the bike for free, and £4 for a tin of degreaser. Everything else has been stock items, soap, rags, and sponges. |
|
. I've never had a 'posh' one with the twin discs - I'm told the braking isn't that different from the singles but it looks like you're a way off finding out for a bit 
.
.
Very common fault on the divvy. "You lot" reckon it's due to water splash of the rear wheel but why is it always this one and only this one that gives out? It's something to do with the starter circuit, there is a wire the same colour that triggers the solenoid. I think it's got either too much power for a 2.8mm plug going through it, or that there is something else going on maybe with leakage back through the circuit. Anyway, new plug and silicon grease is all I can (be arsed to) do.
