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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2011 10:24:24 GMT
Have now got the snapped exhaust stud removed so a good clean and engine going back in this weekend. More photos to be put on by Sunday Surprised the Engine didn't float down the street after last nights weather.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2011 10:32:59 GMT
Have now got the snapped exhaust stud removed so a good clean and engine going back in this weekend. More photos to be put on by Sunday Have you replaced the timing chain?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2011 10:38:31 GMT
Have now got the snapped exhaust stud removed so a good clean and engine going back in this weekend. More photos to be put on by Sunday Have you replaced the timing chain? No, we checked it when we had the rocker cover off and it looked good in good condition. Hope that's not famous last words.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2011 10:44:50 GMT
At what mileage should it get changed?
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Post by cam7777 on Jul 6, 2011 12:15:17 GMT
At what mileage should it get changed? Depends on a lot of factors.. Regular oil and filter changes and smooth use of the throttle will help prolong it's life, in theory the cam chain should last the lifetime of the bike
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2011 12:26:47 GMT
Smooth you say Oh dear
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2011 12:30:48 GMT
Smooth you say Oh dear Was smooth until you started thrashing it away from traffic lights. Oil changed every 2000 Filter changed every 4000 while I had it.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2011 13:44:43 GMT
At what mileage should it get changed? My D9 had 65,000 on when I traded it. It was noticeably more rattly than when I got it at 24,000. Bike shop said it was the chain getting loose. My thoughts are that it would be a lot easier to change it with the engine out
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2011 14:00:35 GMT
His has only done 24,000. I travelled most of the time I had it so it wasn't greatly used. I also had the Bandit for 2 years before I gave him the D9.
No rattles from the chain and looks good on inspection.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2011 15:34:58 GMT
His has only done 24,000. I travelled most of the time I had it so it wasn't greatly used. I also had the Bandit for 2 years before I gave him the D9. No rattles from the chain and looks good on inspection. Sorted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2011 15:13:18 GMT
Engine is now in what a fukn nightmare! Its too heavy
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Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2011 16:53:41 GMT
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Post by m40man on Jul 9, 2011 17:09:36 GMT
Looking very nice ! Too shiny for kids !
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Post by teejayexc on Jul 9, 2011 18:58:29 GMT
Looking good, 'specially like the matt grey blow job on the plugs
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Post by cam7777 on Jul 9, 2011 19:16:34 GMT
Looks very good
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Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2011 20:07:36 GMT
I have to admit it was a bit of a lift getting the Engine into the frame. I'm glad I don't have to help do that every day. The thickness of the powder coat on the rear lower engine mounting caused us a few problems.
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Post by amorti on Jul 11, 2011 9:13:56 GMT
I have to admit it was a bit of a lift getting the Engine into the frame. I'm glad I don't have to help do that every day. The thickness of the powder coat on the rear lower engine mounting caused us a few problems. Strip-down and rebuilds can be quite satisfying, lets you really get in and see what's what. Powdercoat is the only way for frames, but mind out for the thickness of it, it can leave you needing to strip it back off or reshim important stuff like the engine and swingarm. Also mind out for any contacts e.g. between main frame and subframes or engine which are meant to act as earth points. I say this because I have had CB-1 frame crack, and the regulator melt due to poor earthing all after powder coating. Thought it might Looks like a good job so far Do check that any earthing connections are still connecting. It necessary, you could run a wire from the engine to the frame.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2011 9:36:22 GMT
I have to admit it was a bit of a lift getting the Engine into the frame. I'm glad I don't have to help do that every day. The thickness of the powder coat on the rear lower engine mounting caused us a few problems. Strip-down and rebuilds can be quite satisfying, lets you really get in and see what's what. Powdercoat is the only way for frames, but mind out for the thickness of it, it can leave you needing to strip it back off or reshim important stuff like the engine and swingarm. Also mind out for any contacts e.g. between main frame and subframes or engine which are meant to act as earth points. I say this because I have had CB-1 frame crack, and the regulator melt due to poor earthing all after powder coating. Thought it might Looks like a good job so far Do check that any earthing connections are still connecting. It necessary, you could run a wire from the engine to the frame. Earthing has been considered, we just didn't account for the fact the Engine wouldn't fit between the rear mounting after coating. We had spent some time ensuring all the bolts fitted through and frame threads are clean. A D9 Engine isn't the lightest item to be trying to hold in position while you skim off some coating.
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Post by amorti on Jul 11, 2011 13:34:33 GMT
Earthing has been considered, we just didn't account for the fact the Engine wouldn't fit between the rear mounting after coating. We had spent some time ensuring all the bolts fitted through and frame threads are clean. A D9 Engine isn't the lightest item to be trying to hold in position while you skim off some coating. I had enough fun and games with a CB-1 engine, and that's not quite as heavy. Worth checking that you're not forcing the frame in or out, as it might end up cracking from undue stress.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2011 13:42:13 GMT
Earthing has been considered, we just didn't account for the fact the Engine wouldn't fit between the rear mounting after coating. We had spent some time ensuring all the bolts fitted through and frame threads are clean. A D9 Engine isn't the lightest item to be trying to hold in position while you skim off some coating. I had enough fun and games with a CB-1 engine, and that's not quite as heavy. Worth checking that you're not forcing the frame in or out, as it might end up cracking from undue stress. It actually slotted in quite nicely after we skimmed the excess coating off the Lower rear mounting. The top rear mounting has a bolt on bracket at one end so no frame stress there. The front has the bolt off frame section for engine access so all good there. A good point though, had we forced the engine between the lower mounting brackets we would likely have cracked the coating at the frame end allowing water ingress at the worst possible place.
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Post by amorti on Jul 11, 2011 14:05:06 GMT
I had enough fun and games with a CB-1 engine, and that's not quite as heavy. Worth checking that you're not forcing the frame in or out, as it might end up cracking from undue stress. It actually slotted in quite nicely after we skimmed the excess coating off the Lower rear mounting. The top rear mounting has a bolt on bracket at one end so no frame stress there. The front has the bolt off frame section for engine access so all good there. A good point though, had we forced the engine between the lower mounting brackets we would likely have cracked the coating at the frame end allowing water ingress at the worst possible place. Cool, sounds like you've got it covered
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Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2011 18:24:34 GMT
Put carbs back in today and routed the wiring harness.
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Post by cam7777 on Jul 11, 2011 19:51:40 GMT
Great work, love the updates
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Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2011 20:10:59 GMT
Great work, love the updates I got the idea following some internet research on restorations and rebuilds etc. Theres a few of the XJ900 F been done and written about online but i couldnt find much on the diversion. I think I will do a proper write up once completed and try and make a dedicated web page. Here is a link to one i found www.bronyaur.co.uk/xj900.htm
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Post by teejayexc on Jul 11, 2011 20:34:46 GMT
Great work, love the updates I got the idea following some internet research on restorations and rebuilds etc. Theres a few of the XJ900 F been done and written about online but i couldnt find much on the diversion. I think I will do a proper write up once completed and try and make a dedicated web page. Here is a link to one i found www.bronyaur.co.uk/xj900.htmGreat idea just make sure your grammar's correct in it though, or cheat and use the spell checker...aka Dunc's secretary Should we have a rebuild section
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Post by cam7777 on Jul 11, 2011 20:37:38 GMT
Great work, love the updates I got the idea following some internet research on restorations and rebuilds etc. Theres a few of the XJ900 F been done and written about online but i couldnt find much on the diversion. I think I will do a proper write up once completed and try and make a dedicated web page. Here is a link to one i found www.bronyaur.co.uk/xj900.htmNice link, that'll give me some good reading material for the coming winter months ahead.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2011 20:45:19 GMT
I got the idea following some internet research on restorations and rebuilds etc. Theres a few of the XJ900 F been done and written about online but i couldnt find much on the diversion. I think I will do a proper write up once completed and try and make a dedicated web page. Here is a link to one i found www.bronyaur.co.uk/xj900.htmGreat idea just make sure your grammar's correct in it though, or cheat and use the spell checker...aka Dunc's secretary Should we have a rebuild section You missed a comma.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2011 19:44:18 GMT
;D Thanks to Snr removing the bearings the swingarm is getting ready to be put back in. rusty mess! First coat of Primer. Not too happy with results and it definately needs some more attention. Have cleaned some plastics
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Post by cam7777 on Jul 13, 2011 19:52:39 GMT
What colour are you painting the swing arm/bevel box? Would look good in black, silver is soo last year
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2011 20:29:38 GMT
What colour are you painting the swing arm/bevel box? Would look good in black, silver is soo last year Silver Smootherite! Although Black would hide a multitude of sins.
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