stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Jan 13, 2014 20:50:31 GMT
Hello guys,
I have a 2000 Div 900 and I have some front suspension problems. Now i am offered a good deal on a new set of front fork legs, and I would like to take the offer on. These fork legs are however from a 1995 model div900 where mine is a 2000 being slightly different. Should I just mount them, or is this not a good idea. I heard the difference is only in the amount of suspension settings, and honestly I dont mind that too much because the current ones are proper sh*t and i wanna keep it on a budget, IF possible. But if its not a good move then i'd also wanna know.
Cheers for any tips!
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jan 13, 2014 20:54:17 GMT
Yes just mount them, the difference is not worth bothering about!
Usually though they can cheaply be rebuilt, new bushes and springs,
I think the main difference is the later ones have pre load on the top,
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Post by teejayexc on Jan 13, 2014 20:57:30 GMT
Eh up, no difference in the dimensions of the forks, only difference was as you say, the later ones post '97 iirc, had capability of a preload settings on the top. Main thing with forks on the D9 is to get good progressive springs and a decent grade of fork oil. I used 15w in mine and works ok.
What's the front suspension problems your experiencing?
Trev
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Jan 13, 2014 21:05:50 GMT
Problems are excessive softness, it even bottoms out at full preload easily. Also it has a click in it at the bottom which to me feels like a pair of worn bushings. New fork springs, oil and bushings are quite expensive here (in the Netherlands) and the ones im buying have just been rebuilt with new springs, seals and oil but that engine has stopped, making the person sell it in parts. Good news then
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Post by teejayexc on Jan 13, 2014 21:08:12 GMT
Yep, sounds the way to go.
Good luck.
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Jan 13, 2014 21:35:40 GMT
Great superb for the quick advice now i can immediately seal the deal and turn the div back into a supersports bike with a slightly bigger belly.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jan 13, 2014 21:48:47 GMT
Problems are excessive softness, it even bottoms out at full preload easily. Also it has a click in it at the bottom which to me feels like a pair of worn bushings. New fork springs, oil and bushings are quite expensive here (in the Netherlands) and the ones im buying have just been rebuilt with new springs, seals and oil but that engine has stopped, making the person sell it in parts. Good news then You can do this with the D9 the forks are simpler than the fazer, but the principal is the same! www.yamahafz1oa.com/ravenriderssuspensionupgrade.shtmlYou shorten the spring, then increase the spacer to compensate!
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Jan 13, 2014 23:00:05 GMT
The main point for me is that I need new bushings either way. I'm okay with spending 100 euros on progressive springs, but €100 for springs + over €20 per bushing (maybe its more expensive here i dont know) = 200 excluding oil excluding fork seals and dust seals. I'd be out a 250 € minimum. Now i can keep my old forks and sell the good for parts to someone that needs straight ones to replace small parts or whatever and get some more cash back The ones im buying are 100 total and have just had a full rebuild + new progressive springs in them.
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Post by CD on Jan 14, 2014 9:55:54 GMT
That's a great price progressive springs alone would be most of that cost. I believe you can "convert" older forks to newer style by swapping the top plugs. Take care the spacer washers don't fly into the weeds. To unscrew the fork top plugs, leave the bottom yoke (triple clamp) tight, but loosen the clamps on the top yoke. They then unscrew easily but be careful for the top flying when the threads end. Loosen/remove the old fork tops before taking the legs off the bike. Just to upset a certain member with two of his faves in one post My bike had a rusting bottom yoke. I'd repainted it but the rust was back soon enough. So I had the yoke powder coated when the steering bearings were replaced. Mine had standard springs and ended up with 15/40 engine oil, because I forgot to get fork oil. When I came to change the oil for "proper" fork oil it was clean and good. The fork damping was no better with fork oil. Moral if you dont have fancy fork oil, engine oil (with the right cold SAE number) does a fine job.
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Jan 14, 2014 16:35:54 GMT
I do have fork oil but I will keep it to use it on my other bike since these have just had new oil, It'll go into a CBR600F4i coming spring.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jan 14, 2014 19:06:24 GMT
Just to upset a certain member with two of his faves in one post My bike had a rusting bottom yoke. I'd repainted it but the rust was back soon enough. So I had the yoke powder coated when the steering bearings were replaced. . I can't believe that of you Dave, you never upset anyone, a paragon of reasonable ness, Is there anything else needs powder coating whilst your in there?
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Post by CD on Jan 15, 2014 18:27:16 GMT
I'm sure I could find something
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Post by deefer on Jan 15, 2014 20:28:37 GMT
Is it ok to shorten the spring and add more spacer? I have already added some extra preload to my forks via some shims but only about 1.5cm on each leg.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jan 15, 2014 20:48:33 GMT
Is it ok to shorten the spring and add more spacer? I have already added some extra preload to my forks via some shims but only about 1.5cm on each leg. Shortening the spring by 30mm and adding 30mm to the spacer stiffens the spring, without shortening the forks!
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Jan 21, 2014 8:16:04 GMT
Front fork came in, probably swapping in two weeks. Hope they will be better
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Post by CD on Jan 23, 2014 22:29:32 GMT
Run it with the progressive springs before you take the grinder to them. If you do cut be careful which end you lop off. One is more progressive than the other.
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Feb 18, 2014 11:02:47 GMT
Front fork has been in for about two weeks and the improvement is much. Its not as confidence inspiring as the CBR I have driving around, but i guess thats mostly due to weight and the more dated frame. Also the clicking noise as discussed on the forum before it has, but I'll check the front wheel and steering head bearings and thats it. I think it'll be fine then, the click is only a noise nothing functional going wrong noticeably.
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Feb 18, 2014 12:16:08 GMT
the click is only a noise nothing functional going wrong noticeably. Then it is probably one of the normal Divi (club) noises false teeth rattling, knee joint cracking, tinnitus etc. most of these problems can, if not fixed, be improved by getting a good service done at a local GP or dentist. Neil
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Feb 18, 2014 17:24:30 GMT
I dont know the average age of Divi riders, but I hope my teeth wont start to rattle for a good 40 years to come Only needs a carb sync and some wiring fixes / new bulbs in the dash now
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Feb 18, 2014 17:37:56 GMT
I dont know the average age of Divi riders, 50+ would be my guess well say 48 as there are probably more to the younger end than to the upper but you will find more on here between 50 & 60 than any other age is my experience Neil
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Feb 18, 2014 17:39:43 GMT
Maybe der management could come up wiv a more definite answer after all they do burger all else for us Neil
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Feb 18, 2014 17:41:16 GMT
I am humbled by the experience offered by the forum with my babylike 25 years of life.
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Post by m40man on Feb 18, 2014 20:12:56 GMT
Maybe der management could come up wiv a more definite answer after all they do burger all else for us Neil Pah! We fix stuff before you dozy old boys notice it's bust . See!........ no need to thank us .
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Post by CD on Feb 23, 2014 21:30:49 GMT
You've fitted new forks so the clicking noise is likely to be loose steering head bearings. If they are knotched the bike will feel much heavier handling than it should..
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Mar 7, 2014 9:01:30 GMT
I will check the bearings, clicking noise is not present at the moment as the front wheel is removed. Plan was to fit new brake discs or atleast measure the old ones to see if they are straight & true, but corrosion has stopped that plan. Heating, penetrating oil, impact screwdriver, impact air wrench, all they have been able to do is break the bolts mid-thread. Therefore I now have a wheel that has had the full treatment for loosening bolts, yet only 2 out of 10 did not snap mid-bolt. Nasty stuff really, wheel will be replaced.
Front forks will be combined in the meantime. Fork from the 2000 model will get new oil and internal inspection, and the new progressive spring from the old model fork. Meantime brakes will be maintained thouroughly, new brake fluid new seals, and head bearing will be inspected and hopefully tightened rather then swapped out.
The things snapping bolts can get you to do haha.
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Mar 15, 2014 8:52:48 GMT
so now: Head-bearing readjusted, looked perfect so left it in. Wheel bearings replaced Brake Calipers replaced Brake discs replaced for a used but straight&true set tire reset fazer master cilinder placed brake line swap + bleeding / fresh fluid.
Test ride in 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 -> will report back later today or tomorrow.
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Mar 15, 2014 12:40:20 GMT
Wow, that brake power is crazy good. Very happy with the bluespot mod! Any irregularity or clicking is gone too, so now its an amazing bike! A happy Div rider here.
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Post by CD on Mar 18, 2014 9:00:02 GMT
The Blue spots are indeed fab brakes. All it needs now is some progressive springs to help stop the forks bottoming out.
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stone
CBT failure
Posts: 20
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Post by stone on Mar 21, 2014 10:03:43 GMT
Already mounted, only remaining issue is a very very slight weave/wobble.
It probably comes from the head bearing, but the motorcycle actualy steers very very loosely which makes me think it cant be overtightened? I'll probably loosen it slightly still, because the weave does suggest it being overly tight.
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Post by CD on Mar 21, 2014 22:14:37 GMT
A steering wiggle at about 35mpb that's damped out by holding the bars is normal. A weave at high speed is usually caused by tight or worn head bearings. Should be fine with new bearings. Loose head bearings will clunk. New ones will settle and need adjusting after a few miles.
Sent from my phone with mangled spelling
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