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Post by m40man on May 18, 2011 21:02:59 GMT
... Or ride it round to your local garage and give 'em a fiver for them to 'rattle' it  I thought you realised (if you read the thread  ) can't get the new chain on until I can back-off the adjuster. BUT - I could remove the swingarm & transport that to a workshop  . BUT - you need a special tool to remove the swingarm . That's another £14 for that (not a Honda tool, a poor man's equivalent. Gawd knows how much the proper one costs) so I'll try all means available first  . |
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Post by cam7777 on May 18, 2011 21:07:00 GMT
Take it round to bone crusher Fiasco [1], he will undo it for sure. [1] - He nearly breaks my hand everytime we meet up |
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Post by m40man on May 18, 2011 21:12:39 GMT
Take it round to bone crusher Fiasco, he will undo it for sure. Bring Fiasco round, he will undo it for sure Corrected it for you  |
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Post by stevolew on May 18, 2011 21:28:40 GMT
My impact gun is an Aldi special about £30 good enough for occasional use and the compressor was a screw fix Chinese special just over £100, are you drooling over a Snap on book???  like most tools once you've got it surprising how many times it comes in useful. |
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Post by teejayexc on May 18, 2011 21:31:59 GMT
I thought you realised (if you read the thread ) can't get the new chain on until I can back-off the adjuster. I have read the thread; Actually there's TWO bolts . (Had to replace the rear wheel, & fit the new chain to lock the hub so I could jump up & down on the bar holding the socket. Did me no good  .) and wtf's this then, scotch mist?; Talk sense man. |
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Post by m40man on May 18, 2011 22:22:24 GMT
I have read the thread; and wtf's this then, scotch mist?; Talk sense man. OK. Let me explain in more detail for you. I suspect I might be being baited here, but what the heck  : In the picture showing the chain 'fitted', the required slack is produced by manually turning the seized hub around to emulate the hub in it's slackest position. But because the hub is seized, what you might not appreciate is the the rear brake mounting holes are no longer in the correct position to mount the brake. They are about a quarter of a turn of the hub away from that point. The chain is metal & can't be stretched in order to turn the seized hub sufficiently around to mount the caliper. I can't ride the bike without the brake torque arm connected! The chain is mounted in that pic in order to add engine inertia to the indertia of the wheel, to offset the turning activity I have been trying on the nut, to remove the seize hub so it can be cleaned up & freed off. The bike cannot be ridden like this. I could choose to add sufficient extra soft links to make the chain long enough so that the hub can be turned enough to mount the brake. (This would essentially be emulating the length of theold stretched chain). Rather than do this 'bodge' just in order to ride the bike somewhere to try to undo this nut, clean & free the hub, refit it, re-shorten the chain & ride home again, I'm trying to undo the nut & clean & free the seized hub safe in the knowledge that the bike is somewhere I can leave it if the attempt fails. This is something I can try in the evenings in my free time, by the methods I've so far mentioned, rather than during daytime when I have to work. (If I do the above bodge to get the bike on the road at the weekend, I then have to know I can get the work to undo the nut for me done at the weekend, then ride the bike home with the nut loosened in order to clean & free the seized hub). All in all, it seems to me that the bodge is really the last thing I should do, if all else fails. The correct course is to work to undo the nut. HTH - Any questions, fire away. But it's prob best if you pop over to appreciate the detail. Bring your big compressor with you, & a big air impact gun with 1/2 inch drive . |
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2011 7:37:15 GMT
I have read the thread; and wtf's this then, scotch mist?; Talk sense man. OK. Let me explain in more detail for you. I suspect I might be being baited here, but what the heck : In the picture showing the chain 'fitted', the required slack is produced by manually turning the seized hub around to emulate the hub in it's slackest position. But because the hub is seized, what you might not appreciate is the the rear brake mounting holes are no longer in the correct position to mount the brake. They are about a quarter of a turn of the hub away from that point. The chain is metal & can't be stretched in order to turn the seized hub sufficiently around to mount the caliper. I can't ride the bike without the brake torque arm connected! The chain is mounted in that pic in order to add engine inertia to the indertia of the wheel, to offset the turning activity I have been trying on the nut, to remove the seize hub so it can be cleaned up & freed off. The bike cannot be ridden like this. I could choose to add sufficient extra soft links to make the chain long enough so that the hub can be turned enough to mount the brake. (This would essentially be emulating the length of theold stretched chain). Rather than do this 'bodge' just in order to ride the bike somewhere to try to undo this nut, clean & free the hub, refit it, re-shorten the chain & ride home again, I'm trying to undo the nut & clean & free the seized hub safe in the knowledge that the bike is somewhere I can leave it if the attempt fails. This is something I can try in the evenings in my free time, by the methods I've so far mentioned, rather than during daytime when I have to work. (If I do the above bodge to get the bike on the road at the weekend, I then have to know I can get the work to undo the nut for me done at the weekend, then ride the bike home with the nut loosened in order to clean & free the seized hub). All in all, it seems to me that the bodge is really the last thing I should do, if all else fails. The correct course is to work to undo the nut. HTH - Any questions, fire away. But it's prob best if you pop over to appreciate the detail. Bring your big compressor with you, & a big air impact gun with 1/2 inch drive . OK can you explain more clearly. I can't for the life of me see why you need to turn the hub to mount the brakes. You have my attention now, I'm off to find someone with a VFR at the weekend so that I can take a look. |
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Post by Fiasco on May 19, 2011 8:07:56 GMT
Take it round to bone crusher Fiasco [1], he will undo it for sure. [1] - He nearly breaks my hand everytime we meet up Think yourself lucky you didn't get the man hug |
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Post by stewped on May 19, 2011 10:55:25 GMT
As your in Grove, can't you nip around to williams F1 with it, they used to work on Honda's
just tell them you will time them to see how long it takes ;D
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Post by m40man on May 19, 2011 13:01:26 GMT
As your in Grove, can't you nip around to williams F1 with it, they used to work on Honda's .... Has Trev asked you to suggest I nip round somewhere on it  ? . Can't 'nip' round anywhere, without renting a van to 'nip' it around in . |
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Post by amorti on May 19, 2011 13:03:20 GMT
You might be surprised at how much the 12v car / bike battery impact wrenches can do. Ebay or Machine Mart <£30.
That and PlusGas, as it looks like corrosion might also be playing a part in your problem. Good luck!
ps: I am assuming you have already "unstaked" the nut? If it's anything like on my Triumph then the nut has a little section that you flatten over into a recess in the axle, you won't make it move anywhere if you haven't flared that back out.
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Post by m40man on May 19, 2011 13:03:27 GMT
... OK can you explain more clearly. I can't for the life of me see why you need to turn the hub to mount the brakes. Sorry, not really. If you can't understand my liberal use of the word 'seized' there's just no hope. I don't have the vocabulary to break it down further . |
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Post by DahDit on May 19, 2011 13:20:28 GMT
Calm down dear ;D Seems as a club, we may have to admit defeat on this one..... we're not really helping our dear friend here anymore, we're just winding him up[1]. Ironic really isn't it? If you are past the end of your tether with it Martin, you can't even strip it for spares  [1] Now there's a first. |
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Post by m40man on May 19, 2011 13:21:40 GMT
You might be surprised at how much the 12v car / bike battery impact wrenches can do. Ebay or Machine Mart <£30. That and PlusGas, as it looks like corrosion might also be playing a part in your problem. Good luck! ps: I am assuming you have already "unstaked" the nut? If it's anything like on my Triumph then the nut has a little section that you flatten over into a recess in the axle, you won't make it move anywhere if you haven't flared that back out. The nut is not retained by a flared washer. Plenty of various lubes have been applied over a number of days. Cheapest impact wrench at Machine Mart (half-inch drive) is £65. Any Ebay links to cheaper?? Had a look there, didn't see anything in there which looked up to the job for less than £150 . Must be capable of exceeding the efforts of son, over 6 foot, works out at the gym, bouncing on nearly 3foot extension bar . |
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Post by Fiasco on May 19, 2011 13:28:25 GMT
Must be capable of exceeding the efforts of son, over 6 foot, works out at the gym, bouncing on nearly 3foot extension bar . What if he were to do it with me sitting on his shoulders ? |
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Post by DahDit on May 19, 2011 13:39:53 GMT
Probable outcome? Bnggered extension bar, bnggered son's back...... ....nut unmoved. |
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Post by amorti on May 19, 2011 13:49:02 GMT
You might be surprised at how much the 12v car / bike battery impact wrenches can do. Ebay or Machine Mart <£30. That and PlusGas, as it looks like corrosion might also be playing a part in your problem. Good luck! ps: I am assuming you have already "unstaked" the nut? If it's anything like on my Triumph then the nut has a little section that you flatten over into a recess in the axle, you won't make it move anywhere if you haven't flared that back out. The nut is not retained by a flared washer. Plenty of various lubes have been applied over a number of days. Cheapest impact wrench at Machine Mart (half-inch drive) is £65. Any Ebay links to cheaper?? Had a look there, didn't see anything in there which looked up to the job for less than £150 . Must be capable of exceeding the efforts of son, over 6 foot, works out at the gym, bouncing on nearly 3foot extension bar . 1/2" drive, £24 posted. Should do it, I reckon? More volts will make more power, but it's not so much about the amount of torque it can generate, but more the fact it is effectively hitting it with a hammer over and over again, whilst also applying turning force. If you've not used one you won't get it, but if you have then you'll never attempt a clutch nut, swingarm nut, fork damper bolt amongst others without one to hand. About the staked nut - sorry if I am wrong, but the Triumph one looked like this, and so I guessed the Honda might be similar. |
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Post by m40man on May 19, 2011 14:39:43 GMT
Cheers Amorti, I'll a look. If you've not used one you won't get it, but if you have then you'll never attempt a clutch nut, swingarm nut, fork damper bolt amongst others without one to hand. I'm familiar with the beasties, thanks. (Never needed one for swingarm nut or fork damper bolt though .) |
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Post by amorti on May 19, 2011 15:24:42 GMT
Cheers Amorti, I'll a look. If you've not used one you won't get it, but if you have then you'll never attempt a clutch nut, swingarm nut, fork damper bolt amongst others without one to hand. I'm familiar with the beasties, thanks. (Never needed one for swingarm nut or fork damper bolt though .) I've only once needed one for a swingarm nut. And I had to use a normal socket as the impact socket wouldn't fit. Use them on some bent engine mounting bolts too, they were never coming out by hand. I use one every time for fork damper bolts though, saves all that dicking about trying to jam a broom handle down there to hold everything still! Front sprocket nuts are the other thing they're great for. You can whizz it off just by pressing a trigger, none of this trying to stick a bit of wood through the spokes or needing an assistant to hold the bike back. Brilliant. Again, ATB, it's annoying when a simple job becomes a pig, I have owned plenty of shonkers, so feel your pain! |
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Post by m40man on May 19, 2011 15:39:12 GMT
.... Again, ATB, it's annoying when a simple job becomes a pig, I have owned plenty of shonkers, so feel your pain! Actually I'm quite mellow about it. It helps that time is with me & I don't need the bike up & running pronto'. The downside is I'm working outside so weather will slow progress no doubt. Also I keep forgetting where I've put various bits for 'safe-keeping' & yesterday I nearly backed a D9 over the fairing panels . (Apparently the lawn isn't one of those 'safe-keeping' places.) |
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2011 16:22:53 GMT
... OK can you explain more clearly. I can't for the life of me see why you need to turn the hub to mount the brakes. Sorry, not really. If you can't understand my liberal use of the word 'seized' there's just no hope. I don't have the vocabulary to break it down further . But is it seized or are you just unable to undo it ? |
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Post by m40man on May 19, 2011 17:13:02 GMT
Sorry, not really. If you can't understand my liberal use of the word 'seized' there's just no hope. I don't have the vocabulary to break it down further . But is it seized or are you just unable to undo it ? You're worse than Trev for paying attention - the nut needs to come off so I can withdraw the hub & free it/it's seized bearing. The nut on the outside ain't seized, as far as I know to date. It just requires more heavy-handedness than I've so far mustered. EDIT: Edited to add the word 'seized' for clarity . |
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Post by teejayexc on May 19, 2011 18:17:25 GMT
Persevere me ol' dear you'll get there, I have the utmost confidence in your abilities. Must be a first though, it's not 'too tight' that usually catches you out. For the record I wasn't 'baiting', (well, perhaps just a tad), I genuinely thought if you had the new chain on you could ride it, I've seen you do some marvellous things with old hacks bikes sometimes |
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2011 21:06:33 GMT
But is it seized or are you just unable to undo it ? You're worse than Trev for paying attention - the nut needs to come off so I can withdraw the hub & free it/it's seized bearing. The nut on the outside ain't seized, as far as I know to date. It just requires more heavy-handedness than I've so far mustered. EDIT: Edited to add the word 'seized' for clarity . No need to get tetchy, You didn't expect me to read the whole explanation did you ? If you lived closer to the paradise I inhabit I'd have loosened it for you, I'm nice like that. Have you tried soaking it in a bit of diesel ? works a treat. |
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Post by verde on May 23, 2011 11:19:14 GMT
Well just used my battery impact on Peters front chain chain sprocket, came off really easily ;D
Bob
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Post by General Gman on May 23, 2011 11:43:46 GMT
But is it seized or are you just unable to undo it ? You're worse than Trev for paying attention - the nut needs to come off so I can withdraw the hub & free it/it's seized bearing. The nut on the outside ain't seized, as far as I know to date. It just requires more heavy-handedness than I've so far mustered. EDIT: Edited to add the word 'seized' for clarity . If you need a spot more heavy-handedness, I can pop over with my long tool and extra girth |
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Post by teejayexc on May 23, 2011 12:09:07 GMT
If you need a spot more heavy-handedness, I can pop over with my long tool and extra girth Surprised he hasn't been in touch, I pm'd him to suggest a GM is what is required, big tool optional |
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Post by m40man on Jun 3, 2011 19:25:40 GMT
Got some bird draped over the bike & some big fella pulling on my breaker bar, damned bolt wouldn't shift though:  Open to suggestions for next thing to try. Angle grinder  ?? |
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Post by cam7777 on Jun 3, 2011 19:28:30 GMT
If the dynamic duo can't shift it, it aint coming off  |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2011 20:12:56 GMT
I see the problem, The bloke (who incidentally actually has added some girth since I last met him so he wasn't lying ) should have been leaning on the bike and the 'Bloke' in the Newcastle shirt should have been pulling the shaft. It's not a LH thread I hope. Looks like you have an interesting problem. Thought about cutting it off ? If you google it you'll find it's quite common, you need a longer tool. |
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) can't get the new chain on until I can back-off the adjuster. 
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like most tools once you've got it surprising how many times it comes in useful. 
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