DOWNPIPE REMOVAL ?

[shorty]

Guys, your expert help is required once again

I have to replace the downpipes on my D6.

Ive had a look this afternoon and i dont have the correct tool to remove the bolts at the cylinder head. They're the round bolts with what looks like an Allen/Hex hole in the middle ?

The hole is bigger than any key i have in the (somewhat limited) tool box, so i need to buy the correct thing.

What do i need, and what size ?

Many thanks, Dave

[bear]

8mm. I have a spare if you'd like it sent to you, but ideally the 3.99 hex key kit currently on offer at Aldi will be much better as it has a longer reach and a wrench attachment, and you'll need the leverage that gives.

Word of advice though - get the WD40 out and spray it over and behind the nuts every morning and night for a couple of days, especially if the nuts haven't been removed for a while. If you break a bolt getting a nut off off it's a pain to replace.

I was advised to do this by Roy at OS Stainless for a week before I came down to fit the new exhaust and it paid dividends.

[amorti]

I wouldn't even try it using an Allen key. That little lot at aldi looks like a great way to boost your tool box cheaply and May pop in there myself. But, for this job you really do need Allen bits. And a ratchet. Get a quarter inch set to make access easier, it's cheap enough from halfords. You'll regret it the moment you snap the first one or round it out due to an ill fitting key

[bear]

All I can go by is my own experience, albeit limited (removing the bolts on two bikes) and Roy's experience (running into the hundreds).

The Aldi set is almost exactly what Roy uses, i.e. a set of long keys with a handle fitting on the short part of the "L" to provide rotational torque. I'd actually argue that it's less likely you'd apply excessive torque with this set-up compared to a ratchet set, and I'd also argue that you're more likely to keep the rotational movement perpendicular to the nut, whereas with a ratchet set you're more likely to round the nut out through not keeping the shaft of the ratchet at 90^o to the nut.

Whatever tool you decide on, the WD-40 trick really does help a great deal. Plus, you'll also discover for yourself that hot WD-40 smells uncannily like cinema popcorn

[shorty]

Thanks for the above replies guys

Im off down to Halfords today, i see they've got a half price sale on some tool sets. Aldi is just across the road too, so i'll cover both replies at the same time.

Many thanks, Dave

[amorti]

The bonus of the ratchet is, you are more likely to keep the tool perpendicular. Trust me, you just are, as you can keep clicking your handle round to wherever you have best access. If you can do it with keys fair play, but I wouldn't try.

The bits are also handy for EG disc bots, as they can save you from skinned knuckles if you pop an extension in between.

If one of these bolts snaps due to excess torque, then it was already broken. If it rounds out, your key is/.was ill-fitting. If it snaps the usual cause is going at it not 100% perpendicular, usually the moment the lock breaks, you slip, and lean on the key just a little bit wrong. Or, I am simply cack-handed, which might also be true.

[m40man]

Jan 24, 2010 12:50:50 GMT amorti said:

The bonus of the ratchet is, you are more likely to keep the tool perpendicular. Trust me, you just are, as you can keep clicking your handle round to wherever you have best access. If you can do it with keys fair play, but I wouldn't try.

I quite agree. With a short extension, you can be clear of the frame tubes & exert pressure whilst keeping the tool very straight. I've only had hassles using allen keys & bought a set of allen bits after rounding stuck nuts on my 1st D6. Even the rounded nuts came off.

.... apart from the lubing, consider a bit of a 'tighten-up' prior to undoing. That often shifts the stubborn ones.

If one is going to shear - I don't think it matters much whether you use an alen key or an allen bit - it was not going to come out anyway .

[cam7777]

Sometimes a good tap with a hammer on the offending bolt will help before trying to undo, M40 blokes method of slightly tightening before undoing is a good trick.
Often heating up the bolt with a blow torch for a few seconds helps.

[Deleted]

Good way to get heat into the bolt is to run the engine just before you start on the bolts ;D

[shorty]

Jobs done guys, many many thanks.

I ended up buying a 36 piece 1/4 inch socket set in the halford professional range with 8mm hex bit, lots of others too, extension bars, universal joint for working at funny angles , and all at half price at £14.99, brill.

No problem accessing the bolts with the extensions and they came out first time without too much trouble

Now the next decision, do i get a full exhaust system, or are the silencers in good enough condition to warrant buying just the down pipes

The silencers do have what appears to be surface rust where the two sections meet.

[bear]

Glad you got them off without too much trouble

I replaced the whole system on my 600 last spring. I had bought the bike in January with the knowledge that it would need to be replaced as it had needed a weld to get it past its MOT.

Where the original system tends to fail is the join between the silencers and the downpipes. The silencers themselves aren't great, and deteriorate very quickly once breached.

If they're not in too bad nick, then a set of downpipes will see you right. If they look as if they've not much longer to last, then you've a few options. Most people who replace the original system go for a 4-1 systam with just the one silencer on the right hand side as it's cheaper and gives a fraction more power than a 4-2.

Delkevic systems are cheap but I've heard build quality isn't the best, fitting can sometimes be a problem and their after sales service doesn't have the best reputation. £300 or thereabouts.

Motad Nexxus is a widely used option, better build quality. £420 or so (these prices were when I was looking last spring).

If the bike has a lot of running left in it, you might want to look at an O&S stainless system. Fully bespoke system, customised to your specs. 10 year guarantee. £550.

If you think you'll sell the bike in a year, then downpipes only or a cheap system. If keeping for a few years, maybe consider a better system. My bike met a sad end a couple of months ago sadly, but my O&S system lives on attached to Flymo's bike.

If you take some photos then I'm sure people will be able to give you a rough estimate of how long a life the bits have left.

[shorty]

Thanks bear,

Must admit im not thinking of keeping it more than a couple more years so im not thinking of spending fortunes.

Ive seen the nexus system on ebay and costs £200 and ive heard they're not great for fit, longevity or after sales service, so i think i'll pass on that one.

I quite fancy having a go at the sandy bike spares system. They do full systems and downpipes and the quality looks decent, only comes in 2 pieces so less chance of blowing, costing £99 for the downpipes and £250 for a full 4 into 1 system.

Just need to make my bliddy mind up now

[CD]

Sandy Bikes sell Delkevic kits for the 900.

Mine fitted fine. I imagine their 600 kit is also Delkevic.

Another option is to get some stainless 2:1 collectors made to replace the original mild steel ones. The downpipes already are stainless.

[shorty]

Thanks CD,

I ordered downpipes from Sandy Bikes on Monday afternoon. They arrived Tuesday morning and were on the bike for lunchtime.

Sandy Bikes service was excellent, from the first point of contact on the phone, the guy asked all the right questions to make sure i ordered the stuff i needed, and said if i had trouble fitting to give him a call.

The downpipes for the D6 are full stainless steel, even the collectors, but its not Delkevic, they manufacture it themselves.

I'm really impressed with Sandy Bikes and have no hesitation in recommending them to others. I will use them again.

[CD]

I was well pleased with SBs.

Mine now has their downpipes and collectors with Beowulf cans (thanks Tigger

To anyone struggling with those silly header nuts, I soaked mine with WD40 but one or two were still stuck.

I ran a bead of arc weld onto the offending nut and they came undone dead easy. If you try this disconnect the battery and generator and cover the engine and to protect from weld spatter.

It now has stainless dome nuts doing the duties.

Also dont forget to dig out the old exhaust port gaskets or nothing will line up.