|
|
Post by metalforever on Jul 24, 2009 8:37:59 GMT
For a while ive wanted a cigarette lighter socket for the bike, so that i can charge my phone or run a sat nav from it. My problem is i do not understand electrics at all! I can connect wires to their intended location but im useless with understanding why it goes there. cgi.ebay.co.uk/12V-inline-Motorcycle-accessory-power-socket-1-5m-cable_W0QQitemZ300322021741QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item45ec96616d&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A1|39%3A1|72%3A1683|293%3A1|294%3A25I've seen a product on ebay, its a waterproof cigarette lighter socket, I'd like to wire one into the bike (Possibly under the seat somewhere, however i only want power to flow to it when the bike is running. Can anyone tell me how i would do this in a simple way i might understand  Furthurmore, i'd like it to have an 'on/off' switch located near by (So that it is only on when i want it to be, rather than on whenever the bike is running), im guessing (from key stage 2 technology) i would simply wire in a suitable switch somewhere on the negative wire? I'm guessing I could hook it all up to the battery directly, and my on/off switch would prevent the battery running flat, but this wont stop it draining the battery if i forget to turn the switch off overnight for example? HELP! |
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 24, 2009 9:07:47 GMT
It will need a relay switched by the ignition circuit with the ciggy lighter supply fed off a heavier power source. If you are not sure what to do it might be best to get an auto electrician on the case.
|
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jul 24, 2009 11:15:47 GMT
Really shouldn't be too hard.
You should fit an inline fuse, and if you intend to run big things you should fit a relay. I wouldn't necessarily bother if it's only for sat nav or phone chargers. Rule of thumb, if the wire you are cutting into in the bike is thicker than the wire on the appliance, you should be OK. Other than that, you would need a bit more technical savvy.
I would literally run a lead off the feed to the headlight, fit the socket (assuming it is properly waterproof) into the fairing trim, and earth with a ring connector to the frame somewhere. Only works when the headlight is on, so that way it also switches off with the bike. Simple and easy. If you want under the seat, you could use the taillight feed for the same effect. You can alternatively use the brakelight switch feed, then the appliance will also work when the lights are off.
All joints soldered and heatshrinked please. Scotchblock connectors are shite and never last.
|
|
|
|
Post by metalforever on Jul 24, 2009 11:59:37 GMT
 This is the setup im going to use, i've found the earth point on the divvy which i'll use and the switched power is going to be the rear light. This will mean that only when the ignition and lights are on will i have power going to my 'accessories'. however not wanting power flowing all the time but wishing to retain the ability to use my lights im going to wire in a switch also. Im slowly figuring this out. |
|
|
|
Post by metalforever on Jul 24, 2009 13:26:38 GMT
 Forgetting a Relay for a moment will this work? |
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 24, 2009 14:48:50 GMT
Almost
The tail light bulb will have a positive feed with the negative through its casing to the bike frame or maybe a short wire to an earth bolt. You need to take your positive from the feed to the bulb and your negative to the bike frame. As drawn it wont work as the tail bulb positive is acting as a short circuit.
Thinking about it you could use the same relay as the heated grips. The relay is switched by the ignition circuit but draw the heavy power from elsewhere. The grips also have their own on-off switch after the relay so need not be on if you dont want them.
A piggy-back crimp connector would be handy for running the additional power wire from the relay.
|
|
|
|
Post by metalforever on Jul 24, 2009 18:06:34 GMT
you sir are a genious. the heated grips.
I never even thought of those i may well simply adapt the current heated grips system to incorporate the socket circuit. Or atleast use it as a model.
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 27, 2009 10:40:18 GMT
Just get some piggy back crimp-on connectors and use them for one circuit on the relay's switched contacts. Then clip the other circuit's connector to the piggy back. You'll then have neat and nice connections for both circuits. If you are just looking for auxiliary power, the waterproof connectors used on PA equipment might be worth using. They are designed for fitting to speaker cases etc. Have a look in Tandy or Maplins. Silly point to watch - Dont forget the rear mudguard area is mainly single thickness plastic with the "other" side all wet and mucky. I wont say how I once discovered that a *job* looking great from one side isnt always so cool when seen from the other side.  |
|
|
|
Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Jul 27, 2009 13:43:02 GMT
Hien Gerric do a nice little kit with inline fuse holder/scotch lock
just clip in to heated grip live & to a good earth it comes with cable ties to fix to frame or bars or it can fit into a panel took 10 minuets to fit on bars of Fazer.
Neil
|
|
|
|
Post by bobh on Jul 28, 2009 17:56:04 GMT
10 minuets? Didn't know you were into old-time dancing Neil.
|
|
|
|
Post by teejayexc on Jul 28, 2009 18:04:54 GMT
10 minuets? Didn't know you were into old-time dancing Neil. Part and parcel of fazer ownership ;D |
|
