|
|
Post by cholmondly on Jul 6, 2009 10:14:29 GMT
Has anyone replaced the downpipe flange/cylinder head studs and nuts with stainless ones, would they be up to the job/heat?, and if so where can I purr-chase a set?  had to modify my post as I thought it was bolts  |
|
|
|
Post by wills on Jul 6, 2009 23:17:24 GMT
I had to replace the studs in my D600, but went for the standard BZP ones from Wemoto. Don't see why you shouldn't do stainless though.
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 14, 2009 16:14:09 GMT
Don't use stainless studs but you could use stainless dome nuts to keep carp out of the threads.
Lots of good quality high temperature copper grease is a must-have.
|
|
|
|
Post by aardy on Jul 14, 2009 23:13:38 GMT
I replaced mine last year with set of stainless studs and nuts. Not sure where I got them from but it was a google search that did it. I also got some vibration proof washers. Everythink seems grand now. It was a right pain getting the old studs out as 3 of them broke and 2 broke flush with the casing! I am interested to see it is not recommended to use stainless studs - Why?
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 15, 2009 10:14:38 GMT
I would avoid stainless to stainless as the threads can easily pick up and weld themselves. Stainless is also quite "solid" (sorry dont know tech term). It doesnt really stretch when tightened so the threads shake loose more easily than with more normal bolt materials.
|
|
tone
Scooter Rider
Geordie Racer !
Posts: 69
|
Post by tone on Jul 26, 2009 19:13:47 GMT
If you are removing normal undamaged studs, can any reccomend an easy way. I have access to most workshop tools, i.e sockets, rattle gun etc but no welder so welding a rod on isnt an option.
Depending on how tight they are, would it be as easy as just gripping them with a set of moles and twisting off ?
Cheers
Tone
|
|
|
|
Post by aardy on Jul 26, 2009 22:30:14 GMT
When I did my ones I tried everything to get them off. If I remember right I think the mole grips did get one or two of them out but there isn't really much room to get access with mole grips. I did borrow a thing like a socket from a mechanic that had sort of teeth inside it and it worked quite well but broke two off flush. Drilling was one of the last options availble. Changing the exhaust certainly wasn't a quick job !!!
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 27, 2009 10:07:34 GMT
I welded onto about three of my exhaust studs that felt solid under the spanner. After a squirt of PlusGas they all came off ok.
IMHO, it would be worth getting a garage to run some arc weld onto every nut that seems excessively tight. The heat and expansion will loosen the threads and should be enough to get them off safely.
Dont forget to completely disconnect the generator electrics.
Then reassemble with stainless dome nuts spring washers and lots of copper grease. I find non stainless spring washers are better than stainless.
|
|
|
|
Post by wills on Aug 2, 2009 23:31:32 GMT
I had a real epic getting the exhaust nuts and studs off my D600. Used a dremel in the end to slice down the side of the worst of the nuts, followed by a cold chisel. Little b*ggers eventually shifted.
The studs came out fairly easily with one of those gripper sockets that Aardy talks about, once I'd got the nuts off. New studes from Wemoto and plenty of copper grease as they went in!
|
|
|
|
Post by HRHpenfold on Aug 3, 2009 9:36:12 GMT
remember you have to heat them to loosen the threadlock, they should unscrew then, if they snap, then you have to drill them out, make sure you center punch right in the middle, if just off center, then angle the punch towards the center, use one of the old studs, to determine how far in to drill, use a bit of tape to mark the distance on the drill, use a 3mm pilot drill and make sure you hold the drill at the correct angle, increase the drill size, untill most of the stud is gone and just the threads are showing, then pick out the threads, or if thats difficult then re tap the threads, by screwing the tap in a quarter of a turn then back out, continue this untill the threads are good, if you manage to damage beyond repair, then buy the correct size helicoil kit. as for new domed nuts, I just bought the correct stainless ones of ebay, and either bought the correct replacement studs, or on a cheap bike, used a stainless bolt, with the head cut off, and a nut on the top, IIRC yamaha studs have a coarser thread going into the head  |
|
tone
Scooter Rider
Geordie Racer !
Posts: 69
|
Post by tone on Aug 3, 2009 14:15:29 GMT
Does anyone know what the correct size for replacement studs is ? i.e. Length and Stud Size ? I think I read somewhere they were 8mm ?
Cheers
Tone
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Aug 3, 2009 15:52:49 GMT
They are 8mm diameter and the outer thread is the common metric standard.
I have no idea what thread is used at the other end as mine all came free without any breakages.
Personally, I would avoid stainless nuts on stainless studs. Stainless picks up (self welds) all to easily**. Much better a carbon steel stud and stainless dome nut with lots of good quality anti sieze paste.
For cosmetic reasons I used stainless to stainless on my carrier frame...
1 When tight, the threads go "solid" with next to no spring as the threads bite.
2 They shook loose even though I had used nylocs AND spring washers
3 Tightened up hard to stop them shaking loose and the threads picked up. This still shook loose butnow it would not unscrew or tighten. The threads had stripped.
4 I had a right old time getting it off and the access was good. Imagine that on an exhaust stud.
A stainless bolt with carbon steel nut on the back has worked ok and continues to look good.
|
|
