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Post by sparky@TLB on Jun 3, 2009 23:28:06 GMT
 Before cleaning the caliper photo. am using Brake cleaner on the caliper. I need some answers to my questions please. Q1. the two pins that the caliper moves along on, what can i use to clean them up with.i have used brake cleaner so far. Q2. The end support pads where the brake pads moves along on are rusty from the old brake pads. What can i use to clean the rust off with. will post some photo's of the part's am talking about later on today. Andy After the clean  End support pads  |
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Post by nik2900 on Jun 3, 2009 23:49:36 GMT
One word of advice, DON'T BREAK or LOSE the pins on the left/right hand side of the photo cos I couldn't get a replacement pin from anywhere. Had to get a 2nd hand caliper from the breakers just for the pin itself  |
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Post by Padster on Jun 4, 2009 5:53:36 GMT
I use brake cleaner and toothbrushes to clean the worst off. To make the brake cleaner last longer and save using loads of it I clean the parts in a plastic box.
On the sliding pins I use a dremel type tool with a brass/wire brush to get the corrosion off and then finish off with some very fine wet/dry paper. I coat them with a very thin smear of Corrosion grease (from the makers of ACF-50) before reassembly.
I do the same with the ends where the brake pad supports are. The alloy underneath them corrodes and pushes them so that they hold the pads really tightly. I scrape this alloy crud off before tidying up the surfaces.
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Post by Padster on Jun 4, 2009 5:55:13 GMT
Having re-read the above I should add that I don't grease the ends where the pads slide.
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Post by CD on Jun 4, 2009 11:45:00 GMT
Plumbers merchants sell some abrasive strips (that look like a wire mesh) and heavy duty abrasive "washing-up" pads. Both are great for getting into awkward corners.
To get the pistons out you might need to use the hydraulics. G-Clamp one and pump out the other. Before it pops right out clamp the moving pad and pump out the first one.
A small screwdriver with the tip bent over it handy for cleaning out the seal grooves in the caliper bores.
I had my rear caliper powder coated. The bores and bolt holes were taped over or plugged and its still looking fab after last winter. You might need a dremmel to clean off any flash that builds up around the masked off areas.
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Post by amorti on Jun 4, 2009 17:19:53 GMT
One word of advice, DON'T BREAK or LOSE the pins on the left/right hand side of the photo cos I couldn't get a replacement pin from anywhere. Had to get a 2nd hand caliper from the breakers just for the pin itself I had to do the same after that pin snapped in use. Scary stuff. |
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Post by amorti on Jun 4, 2009 17:31:52 GMT
Looking at your picture and got to be honest. That's in a really bad state. I suggest you need probably new pistons and a seal set. You really do need to strip and rebuild that caliper, not just clean it. - Use a steel brush to remove all the (flaky) paint off the caliper body, and repaint it using whatever you fancy, Smoothrite is as good as anything.
- Use a brass brush to clean the pistons up, but honestly I think the rust on them means they are no good. They should be shiny, anything less is no good. If you use a steel brush, you will remove any remaining plating, which is bad. You won't clean them in situ, you have to pop them out.
- I think the springs are stainless steel, so use whatever you want to clean them just don't snap them.
- The sliding pins should also end up smooth, they are nickel plated steel. If you use a steel brush you will take off the plating but frankly I think it's too late for that. Clean them as best you can with a brass brush and use lots of red grease to lube them on reassembly. Red grease only as normal grease (including copper grease, which someone above has suggested) will cause the boots to swell, eventually seizing the sliding pins.
Anyway, that's it, prognosis is not good for that caliper. Pop the pistons and see what you are left with. Get on to wemoto for new pistons and seals (£51) or seals (£17), or scour ebay for a better caliper, as that is looking past just cleaning and probably needs a rebuild. Wemoto will sell you original bits which are the best bet. I would be looking for a nicer caliper, and stripping that and either just cleaning it fully and relubing with red grease, and putting it back together using existing bits or fitting new seals at £17 a set. |
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Post by Padster on Jun 4, 2009 17:52:01 GMT
For info corrosion grease is not copper grease. It neutralises any corrosion present and prevents it recurring. It is perfectly safe to use around rubber. There is a risk if you put too much grease into the rubber boots that you get hydraulic lock and it won't allow the caliper to move properly.
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Post by wills on Jun 4, 2009 19:32:04 GMT
In similar vein, is it possible to remove the pistons from the rear caliper without splitting the caliper?
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Post by amorti on Jun 4, 2009 20:42:59 GMT
Short and sweet: no.
Pump them out as far and evenly as you can into the middle, then remove the rest of the way carefully with narrow nose pliers and lots of rag.
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Post by teejayexc on Jun 4, 2009 21:17:30 GMT
Short and sweet: no. Pump them out as far and evenly as you can into the middle, then remove the rest of the way carefully with narrow nose pliers and lots of rag. Beg to differ Amorti  , If you take the caliper off you can. Clamp one piston, blow t'other one out with airline through the bleed nipple hole (sticking one of the caliper bolts in the brakeline hole), remove seals from that one and pop it back in. Clamp the one you've just put back and carefully blow t'other one out. Worked on mine  |
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Post by CD on Jun 4, 2009 21:31:05 GMT
Its worth stripping the caliper but Amorti has a point abouit this one being parhaps beyond the point of no return. The blue spot caliper wont fit the 600 as it fouls the wheel spokes. But now would be a great time to get hold of a caliper and measure it carefully. There is a good chance that metal could be filed off the back corners to give enough wheel clearance. But look and measure carefully because take too much away and the caliper could crack. Amorti has shown that the D6 brake benefits from a smaller master cylinder. I believe the Blue Spots have a larger piston area so might be just right with the standard master cylinder. Strong word of warning ... This is only a theory and lots of careful measurement is needed before hacking away any metal.  |
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Post by Padster on Jun 5, 2009 0:02:45 GMT
Where are you sparky? I have the kit to take the pistons out without having to use grips and risk any damage to the pistons. PM if you are anywhere close to Essex and I will pop over and give you a hand.
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Post by amorti on Jun 5, 2009 0:28:19 GMT
Short and sweet: no. Pump them out as far and evenly as you can into the middle, then remove the rest of the way carefully with narrow nose pliers and lots of rag. Beg to differ Amorti , If you take the caliper off you can. Clamp one piston, blow t'other one out with airline through the bleed nipple hole (sticking one of the caliper bolts in the brakeline hole), remove seals from that one and pop it back in. Clamp the one you've just put back and carefully blow t'other one out. Worked on mine Fair play  Looking closer at a picture, I must agree. But for those without an airline (eg me), I would think it's best to use hydraulic force to get the pistons to a point, then wiggle them out. |
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Post by General Gman on Jun 5, 2009 6:41:08 GMT
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Post by amorti on Jun 5, 2009 7:51:08 GMT
That's a nice looking tool!
PS, My neighbour did fit nissin calipers off an old gsx-r to his zx7-r, and is so massively impressed with the difference, he's actually started using his bike again.
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Post by Padster on Jun 5, 2009 9:38:53 GMT
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Post by sparky@TLB on Jun 8, 2009 16:45:32 GMT
Many thanks for the info and advice chaps. am getting a very good caliper, so lay say from a ebay seller.I got the £51 kit from wemoto. am just waiting on the caliper when it arrives.the old caliper is still connected to the front brake so i can still get the old pistons out if need be.
Andy
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Post by sparky@TLB on Jun 8, 2009 16:49:48 GMT
I have updated photos put on the 1st post.sorry in not replying sooner,i have been very busy at work.
Andy
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Post by General Gman on Jun 9, 2009 8:09:39 GMT
That's a nice looking tool! PS, My neighbour did fit nissin calipers off an old gsx-r to his zx7-r, and is so massively impressed with the difference, he's actually started using his bike again. Aye, the feel of the brakes is 100% better, and there isn't much difference in ultimate braking power.The master cylinder is too small for the 6 pots - needs to be about 17 to 18 mm ideally according to my calcualtions for optimum feel, but that means buying a hugely expensive Brembo or AP cylinder.. |
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Post by amorti on Jun 9, 2009 17:28:22 GMT
Yes, I think apart from that he'd got fed up of replacing the dust seals on them! As they say, knowledge is power.
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,
Looking closer at a picture, I must agree.
