Clutch Release Spindle Play

[bobh]

Hi All,

I've just acquired an XJ600N from another member - 1999 V-reg, 17K miles. What is it about Divvys that we seem to keep coming back to them?

Anyway, checking it over I notice that the clutch release shaft has some sideways movement (maybe a mm) in the bush in the top of the clutch housing when the lever is operated. I don't remember seeing this on either of my previous Divvys (a 600 and a 900) but then I never really looked for it. Is it something to worry about or do they all do that, squire?

Cheers - Bob

[CD]

This might be worth a read.
diversionclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=600&action=display&thread=7112
It looks the the rack & pinion release mechansim caused the clutch to drag doing all sorts of damage.

[bobh]

Dave,

Had a look at that, but I don't think (at the moment) there's anything amiss internally. It's just the sideways movement of the spindle (the vertical one that goes through the top of hte clutch casing) that I've noticed.

Obviously I don't really want to open it up if I don't have to, but maybe an exploratory look-see would be a good idea, even if it's going to cost me a new gasket (or is it possible to use plastic gasket or similar on the casing?).

Bob

[CD]

Hi Bob,
Enough wear in there to be able to physically move the spindle sounds iffy.
Its a rack & pinion setup inside so there's a risk it could get too far out of line and break the gear teeth. Those on the other thread had got badly mashed somehow. I would take it off and have a proper look.

The gasket might be ok. I always use some Loctite anaerobic gasket goo. It's not cheap (******ing expensive actually) but lasts ages. Its has even sealed a split gasket and nothing like the cheapo RTV instant gasket. That stuff usually leaks and then clogs the engine with bits of orange silicone.

[bobh]

Dave,

Glad you persuaded me to have a look.

Took the cover off today. First thing I noticed was lots of "mayo" inside the cover, which is not surprising as the excessive sideways movement of the spindle has destroyed the oil seal and allowed water to get in (it being on top of the case, of course).

Then when I pulled out the spindle, the upper journal is very badly scored / worn and the clearance has opened up enough for the needle rollers to have turned sideways. The water getting in has obviously hastened the demise of the upper bearing, though I'd be surprised if it were the root cause of it failing. The lower needle roller bearing looks OK, fortunately, as do the teeth on the clutch release rack.

So it's either all new parts (spindle, needle roller bearing, oil seal) or get the spinlde machined down and sleeved, plus new bearing and oil seal, or get it machined and make up a plain bush (bronze, nylon or PET) to substitute for the needle roller. I'll check the cost of the new parts option first.

Obviously this is something to check every now and then to make sure you castch it before it gets too bad.

I'll post again when I've made some progress - which may not be for a while as this job is not top of my prioritiy list at the moment.

[CD]

You could try for some DX or DU bearings. They are designed for areas with poor lubrication and a small radius of movement and lots better than oil impregnated sintered bronze. There is even a self aligning DX that seems to have similar proportions to needle rollers. You might strike lucky and these things will cope better with water ingress than needle rollers. Cheap too.

To illustrate I googled and found these
www.directbearings.co.uk/bronze_and_self_lubricating_bushes.html

[bobh]

Dave,

Thanks for that. If I still had access to machining facilities I'd probably have gone with the plain bearing conversion, but now I'm retired I don't have the connections, so would have to pay someone to re-machine the spindle and turn up an adaptor bush etc.

As it is I've taken the easy option and ordered new parts. Total (spindle, upper needle bearing, seal and cover gasket) is about £40. I decided to leave the lower bearing where it is, as the part of the spindle that runs in it is in good condition, which should mean the bearing's still working OK, and there's a distinct possibility of getting it wrong while extracting the old one and pressing in a new one, so I'll leave well alone.

[CD]

I dont understand the Japanese fixation with needle rollers on shafts that oscillate over a small radius. But keeping it standard makes sense. I'm trying to find a suitable bush for one of my suspension rocker bearings. Its looking likely I'm going to be stuck with a new roller bearing.

[bobh]

Dave, your right. At least with this spindle you could, in theory, take it out and turn it round a tooth every once in a while to even out the wear. I don't know if that's possible with the D9 suspension bearings and pins. The 600 of course doesn't have a rocker, it's just needle rollers on the pivot shaft, which probably has just two positions (I'll get around to that job sometime soon).

[CD]

Every time I take off my D9 suspension rocker the whole thing feels better for a while, but then the parts settle back into their worn "slots" and its all clunky again.

I believe there is something like this:
www.alibaba.com/product-gs/211601678/HTB_2Y_Lead_free_boundary_lubrication.html
... with a spherical bearing face that might be just right for the 27OD x 20ID that I'm looking for. Failing that it will be a new pin from Yamaha and needle roller race.