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Post by HRHpenfold on Jun 1, 2009 12:45:37 GMT
To be fair he did say 'locking device' and from your link it states; Isn't a set screw a 'locking device'? no, its just a properly named bolt  |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jun 1, 2009 13:12:51 GMT
You do talk some rubbish, show me in the MOT testers manual, the relevant section which states a locknut must be fitted to the rear spindle, if your going to state opinions as fact, at least be sure that you can back it up!  www.motuk.co.uk/manual/mc_contents.htmMy bikes dont have locknuts either, they are set screws, last one passed a MOT Saturday Em, you just answered your own question there. I was not stating an opinion as fact, I said all along that there had to be a locking device. A locknut is just one example of the many that are acceptable. I am not some armchair mechanic who doesn't know any better. I have been a mechanic/Mot Tester for the last 20 years and I know the testers manuals inside and out. I have also been tested myself at various intervals by VOSA examiners and attended numerous refresher courses and seminars regarding the MoT scheme. I tried to give someone on the forum some genuine, helpful advice that's all. I am not talking rubbish, merely giving wills some professional advice that may same him some grief later on. The point I make is that not all bikes have locknuts and any nut is a locking device, therefore it meets the criteria as are the bolts used in my rear wheel, no other method is specified or used, as a MOT tester, you cannot insist on a locknut when that is not fitted by the manufacturer, if none fitted then it passes with none In fact the nut you show, is just a nut, the locking part is destroyed once its been undone a couple of times |
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Post by CD on Jun 1, 2009 16:26:46 GMT
I always said "set screw" to mean a bolt with a thread all the way up. Usually applied to those with socket or screwdriver heads. But that might just be custom & practice.
I wonder, with so many alternatives of locking pins, locknuts, unlocked nuts, etc...
If the end of the spindle with the locking pin hole has been ground away and its carrying a normal nut there is no way the MOT tester could complain.
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qtws
Harley Rider
Posts: 93
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Post by qtws on Jun 13, 2009 11:27:18 GMT
MoT'd the D6 last week. Tester took all of 5'ish min to pass it (it was gleaming, after all ;D ). Turns out he saw all the split pins etc in the correct places, and his opinion was "there'll not be much wrong with this one"
Go in with the front tyre on the wrong way round, now..... different story, but the 125 still passed after a 30 min inspection!
I had to remove the swingarm once in order to get sufficient force to remove the lower shock mounting bolt whe n I replaced the shock. Had to beat the hell out of it. Steel/aluminium corrosion. Smoothed, greased, is fine now. I use a steel rod as a drift for spindles - seems not to bu66er the threads as much.
Cheers,
Nigel
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Post by CD on Jun 15, 2009 16:49:37 GMT
A friend holding a big hammer and socket on the opposite side works wonders. All your hammer force goes into the offending bolt and it will usually only need one or two good thumps.
I recently got a 500ml tub of copper/graphite anti-sieze paste from a bolt specialist for about £5. It way better than the copper tinted grease sold at most places.
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Post by wills on Jun 21, 2009 23:10:06 GMT
Going back to the first post and my cry for help, I eventually removed the swing arm and clamped the two sides with a hefty joiners sash cramp to stop them springing apart. Plenty of heat and a four-pound lump hammer did the trick, and I was able to recover the spindle in the end with some judicious filing.  |
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Post by General Gman on Jun 22, 2009 11:07:21 GMT
Em, you just answered your own question there. I was not stating an opinion as fact, I said all along that there had to be a locking device. A locknut is just one example of the many that are acceptable. I am not some armchair mechanic who doesn't know any better. I have been a mechanic/Mot Tester for the last 20 years and I know the testers manuals inside and out. I have also been tested myself at various intervals by VOSA examiners and attended numerous refresher courses and seminars regarding the MoT scheme. I tried to give someone on the forum some genuine, helpful advice that's all. I am not talking rubbish, merely giving wills some professional advice that may same him some grief later on. The point I make is that not all bikes have locknuts and any nut is a locking device, therefore it meets the criteria as are the bolts used in my rear wheel, no other method is specified or used, as a MOT tester, you cannot insist on a locknut when that is not fitted by the manufacturer, if none fitted then it passes with none In fact the nut you show, is just a nut, the locking part is destroyed once its been undone a couple of times That pic of a self locking nut looks ok to me.... certainly not destroyed.I prefer the Philidas type, though (the one with slots in) Much better quality and heavier duty.My FZR thou used a nyloc nut, but the ZX9 (which is 10 years newer) uses a castellated nut and pin. As for set screws... a lot of the guys where I used to work were the same as CD - they called any screw with thread all the way to the head a set screw, but a set screw is specifically a locking screw IIRC.Doesn't really matter, but I get a bit pedantic about things like that and hate people calling screws 'bolts' , or calling socket headed cap screws 'allen head bolts'. Makes my blood boil..... |
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Post by CD on Jun 24, 2009 8:21:24 GMT
I sometimes say "allen head" because so many folks don't know what a "socket headed cap screw" is
BTW thinking about locking a large nut onto it's thread - would a grub screw be an appropriate way to go?
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Post by General Gman on Jun 24, 2009 13:55:00 GMT
I suppose it would depend on the application.....what's it for ?
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Post by CD on Jun 25, 2009 23:14:04 GMT
I was thinking that if a spindle had to be bashed up to get it off the bike, the spindle nut could perhaps be retained with a grub screw throuh one of the flats. Just an idea - never tried it.
Perhaps a normal socket cap screw would be better as would have to be removed before the main nut is attacked with a spanner.
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