Service costs for XJ600s

[bear]

I bought my XJ600s in January, 95 plate, 15,000 miles on the clock. Last serviced at 12,000 miles, now at 17,300.

I'm looking to get it serviced in the near future.

1) Are there any big servicing jobs coming up that I should be aware of?

2) When do the shims normally need doing?

3) Roughly how much should I be looking at for a thorough service, consumables included?

4) Anyone had good service from a garage in the NW?

Cheers.

[bobh]

At that age (more so than mileage), unless there's any evidence they've been done recently, I'd want to have a look at and grease the suspension (swing arm bearing, steering head) and change the fork oil, plus overhaul the brake calipers (and ideally fit new braided hoses if not already on). Doing that lot properly (NOT like Chunk's rear caliper was) is several hours work, so could be big bucks.

Also the service should include checking chain and sprockets (at 17K it could well still be on the originals, which would be well worn by now) and preferably the valve clearances, which may or may not need adjusting. And of course an oil and filter change (it should have been done 4K or 1 year since the last one, so it's well overdue).

[teejayexc]

Apr 30, 2009 21:31:34 GMT bobh said:

At that age (more so than mileage), unless there's any evidence they've been done recently, I'd want to have a look at and grease the suspension (swing arm bearing, steering head) and change the fork oil, plus overhaul the brake calipers (and ideally fit new braided hoses if not already on). Doing that lot properly (NOT like Chunk's rear caliper was) is several hours work, so could be big bucks.

Also the service should include checking chain and sprockets (at 17K it could well still be on the originals, which would be well worn by now) and preferably the valve clearances, which may or may not need adjusting. And of course an oil and filter change (it should have been done 4K or 1 year since the last one, so it's well overdue).

All that Bob said, and I'd fit new plugs and get the carbs balanced.

If your handy with the spanners you could do the lot yourself and save a fortune, consumables aren't that dear for the D6, but you're looking at a lot of labour, (and the exhorbitant charges), for that lot

[bear]

Chain and sprockets are new, I changed them over first thing after buying the bike.

Will braided hoses make much of a difference?

[CD]

Braided hoses wont make the brakes more powerful. They will however give them a sharper action with a harder feel at the lever. If you are happy with the brakes leave the hose as they are.

See diversionclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=600&action=display&thread=7510

The best brake mod is HH brake pads I've used Goldfren and been happy. They will wear the disc faster but they last three times as long as stanbdard pads so still save money overall.

The valve clearances are probably ok but deffo should be done before 25K.
Doing the brake servicing yourself will save you the costs of new seals. That's around £50 for geniuine Yamaha (dont bother with pattern seals). If they are serviced by a garage, it's sometimes cheaper to fit new calipers. !!!

Hopefully you changed the oil and filter when you bought the bike. If not do it now.

The steering head greasing is always a good idea. However professional labour to strip it and clean out the old grease is not going to be cheap. I would let it go for now and fit taper roller bearings when the originals go knotchy. By then you will be more spanner experienced perhaps enough to do it yourself. If not the labour wont be much worse than doing a (proper) bearing service. The originals were never well greased in the factory so are likely to be heading south. I'd leave them alone until they go knotchy.

Carb balancing - unless the engine is running rough at low revs they are probably ok. Once set they should not get out of step.

Spark plugs can make a big difference especially if yours are the originals. Unfortunately D6 plugs are not cheap.

For carb balancing I use a length of hose to listen to the pop pop sounds in each pair of bellmouths. On a slightly fast tickover (1200 to 1500), the carb making louder pops is pulling more air. Adjust until they both sound more or less the same. Having not done this method since the 1980's I did mine last summer and had them checked with vac gauges all were spot on. So it really can't be that hard.

[bear]

Thanks for your advice, folks.

A good friend has introduced me to the mechanic he uses in Bradford - I've seen his work on my friend's Yam XS1100 and it's extremely good - and we'e talked about what might be a good idea to do at this service.

So far :

1) Overhaul calipers, replace pads, replace brake fluid.
2) Change oil filter and oil.
3) Change air filter.
4) Check valve clearances.
5) Balance carbs.
6) Replace fork oil.
7) Overhaul rear suspension and swingarm.
8) Replace spark plugs.
9) Check all fasteners and tighten to correct torque.

few other bits and bats.

He reckons about £200 labour + consumables.

[pilgrim]

Best advice from me........ you don't have to agree!

That's a big list of work and the parts could cost you the same as the labour..........

If you don't already have one get (or borrow) a Service (Haynes) manual.

Buy spark plugs, oil and air filter and do them yourself. You've just saved an hour's labour cost. Check your brakes as per Service Schedule. Only ask for work to be looked at if you're unsure, then only proceed with your nod of approval.

If you put it in for any known work ie: check valve shims then ask to be advised on forks and suspension. Your bike is relatively low milage and less exposed to the elements. Not any guarantee but ask first, don't assume you'll be given the truth unless you have complete confidence in your favoured mechanic.

[charlietbird]

Yes. Get yourself a Haynes Manual. Most of that stuff is easy to do yourself,

Charlie

[CD]

£200 sounds like a good price, but learning to do it yourself makes sense in the long run. That said, I think I'd leave the valve clearance work to the pro's.

[bear]

Definitely agree on both counts. I have the Haynes Big Book of Lies but my thinking is that as the bike has an uncertain service history and it's getting towards the time it needs some big work done (especially given its age) it's better to get everything done in one lot.

The mechanic is perfectly happy for me to watch all of it, so I'll pick up on how to do the usual servicing myself and save next time.