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Post by 53huntly on Apr 23, 2009 16:40:33 GMT
Hi all, i have just removed the rear wheel of my 1998 600 xjs and to my horror there was mangled bearings. Having taken them out and looked at the haynes manual i have came to the conclusion that it is the coupling bearing. My problem is that on the wemoto web site they have 3 bearings, left, right and middle, so not sure what this bearing may be. Any ideas?
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Post by amorti on Apr 23, 2009 16:55:32 GMT
There are grand total 4 bearings in the rear wheel: 3 wheel bearings (left, middle, right) and 4 is the sprocket carrier. Which one failed on you? It seems to be quite regular for the big one in the sprocket carrier to fail.
If sprocket carrier only, just replace that one. Be careful with chain alignment when putting it back together.
If any one of the wheel bearings, replace all three. Any one failing will put a stress on the others, and they probably won't last a lot longer and will then take the new one with them.
Replace the dust seals while you're about it to extend the bearing life.
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Post by amorti on Apr 23, 2009 16:57:52 GMT
 2 = right 3,3 = mid + left 11 = sprocket |
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Post by 53huntly on Apr 23, 2009 17:03:58 GMT
Looking at that diagram it looks like it would be the sprocket carrier. Do they come with dust seals when ordered ? Thanks
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Post by amorti on Apr 23, 2009 17:51:20 GMT
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Post by 53huntly on Apr 23, 2009 19:34:13 GMT
Hi, thanks for the help. Only took my wheel off because i thought there was a tight spot on my chain as it would sometimes make a bit of a weird sound when going slowly round corners, this explains it. managed to clean and paint swing arm plus rear wheel, so bonus there i guess. Thanks again will let you know how i get on fitting new bearing etc. Cheers
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Post by 53huntly on Apr 24, 2009 11:41:00 GMT
I have noticed in the haynes manual it does not mention greasing the bearing and axel when i am putting it back together, is this something i should be doing, and if so will axel grease do the job. Thanks.
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Post by amorti on Apr 24, 2009 11:53:10 GMT
The bearing should be "2RS" or double rubber sealed. It is self-contained and does not need greasing.
Grease the axle on its way in to stop it seizing, I use normal old-school grease, stops it sticking.
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Post by CD on Apr 24, 2009 12:14:14 GMT
As Amorti says, the axle pin does not do any of the bearing stuff it simply holds everything together. Grease stops it siezing up so if you have it copper grease is a good idea. I recently got some high percentage copper grease rated to 1150 degs C from a bearings factors. A litre tin cost £6 and its much better than the stuff sold in Halfrauds, et al.
On the wheel bearings (IIRC from doing mine), the wheel itself has only two bearings but Amorti says three so maybe it varies from model to model. I always use doubled sided rubber sealed bearings with new outer seals as well bought from a bearing specialist shop.
The bikes are built with open bearings but IMHO the seals are only fit for keeping the dust out. If I was doing the sprocket carrier although the wheel bearings dont have to be done at the same time, I usually do the whole lot. Its not a hard job and the parts are cheap.
BTW you might also want to spray some waxoyl or similar up inside the swing arm. Its not noted for rusting but can never be too careful.
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Post by 53huntly on Apr 27, 2009 14:58:29 GMT
Hi, just got sprocket carrier bearing from wemoto and tried to fit, but it just looks to big to go in the sprocket. I dont want to hit it too hard and damage it, any ideas or could they have sent the wrong one. help. Thanks
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Post by amorti on Apr 27, 2009 15:03:17 GMT
It'll be the same size as the old one. You have taken the old one out, right? Put them next to each other. They ought to have the same bearing code stamped on them, too.
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Post by 53huntly on Apr 27, 2009 15:33:29 GMT
The old bearing was shot to bits, but will check to see if i have got it all out. Will let you know. Thanks
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Post by 53huntly on Apr 27, 2009 15:39:44 GMT
What a f**** numpty i am, just found the outer casing, thought it was part of the wheel. Maybe i can get on with the job in hand. Thanks mate will beat myself up later.
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Post by 53huntly on Apr 27, 2009 16:16:00 GMT
ok, what should be an easy job is turning into a big job. Bearing is in the wheel, now should the collar which goes in between go up the centre of the bearing, if so how do i do it. When i fit the collar and then put the sprocket on it does not fit tight with the wheel, because the collar is pushing them apart, as it seems too big to fit in the bearing. Trying to do this before it rains, getting annoyed now. Cheers.
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Post by 53huntly on Apr 27, 2009 16:41:29 GMT
What i am trying to say is, according to the diagram on this page should part 16 fit inside part 11, if so how hard should i be trying to force it, centre of bearing looks very tight for the collar. HELP
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Post by Padster on Apr 27, 2009 18:47:07 GMT
16 is a spacer that is a fairly tight fit into 11. It isn't unknown for the part to be thrown with the old bearing! I put the spacer in first with the bearing on a flat surface then fitted the bearing to the carrier. If you are going to tap it into the bearing in the carrier make sure there is solid support to the bearing to avoid damage.
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Post by CD on Apr 27, 2009 18:53:25 GMT
Grannies/eggs/etc...
Dont support the outer race and thump something into the inner race (or vikkie-verkie). This will wreck the bearing and you'll be fitting a new one in a week or two. Support the race that's being thumped and go carefully to keep it square.
Granny mode off.
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Post by 53huntly on Apr 28, 2009 17:14:50 GMT
At last, job done. I have now found out not to take things at face value. Firstly i had not removed all of the shot bearing from the sprocket carrier and secondly in order for the collar to fit inside the new bearing you also have to remove all of the remaining bearing from that too. i know stupid, but lesson learned. Thanks to all who helped.
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Post by CD on Apr 28, 2009 21:19:53 GMT
Not stupid - it's just a learning experience. You'll soon get the hang of it.
Well done for not giving up. ;D
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