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Post by themrs2 on Apr 22, 2009 19:21:33 GMT
I was just wondering if anyone else had seen these custom sprockets you can buy. I've found a supplier that do front and rear sprockets both with the option of plus one or less one tooth. Has anyone tried them and is it worth that little extra speed or acceleration?
I have been considering using them but don't want to put too much on the engine and transmission for fear of causing irrepairable damage.
Hope I made sense
Stu
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Post by HRHpenfold on Apr 22, 2009 19:27:31 GMT
I was just wondering if anyone else had seen these custom sprockets you can buy. I've found a supplier that do front and rear sprockets both with the option of plus one or less one tooth. Has anyone tried them and is it worth that little extra speed or acceleration? I have been considering using them but don't want to put too much on the engine and transmission for fear of causing irrepairable damage. Hope I made sense Stu changing sprockets wont damage the engine, if a hyabusa can manage with a rear spocket smaller than a D6, then I think you will be ok  |
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Post by amorti on Apr 22, 2009 20:08:48 GMT
You can mess with the rear gearing to your heart's content. Bear in mind, if you gear it for more acceleration you will lose top speed, and you will have to change gear more often.
If you gear it for more speed you have to ask if the bike will pull it. You will reduce revs and save a smidge on fuel though.
Personally I think the standard setting is about right. The bike pulls top speed just a bit below red line, which is what you should ideally be after on a bike with this sort of performance.
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Post by CD on Apr 22, 2009 21:52:49 GMT
The engine is designed to run to 9000rpm so running it at 6K or 7K on the M-way won't hurt it. Slogging it around at low revs will do a lot more harm. Its also possible to drop the annoying rev band into even more of the normally used speed range. I'd stick with standard.
That said, if it turns out the new gearing is unsuitable, its cheap enough to go back to standard.
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Post by themrs2 on Apr 23, 2009 18:03:19 GMT
Would say going +1 front and back have a noticeable difference then?
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Post by pilgrim on Apr 23, 2009 18:14:08 GMT
I don't realy think so, + 1 or -1; 2 or three then yes.
Of course there is a difference but can you feel the difference of 1 in 47 teeth against 1 in 46 or 48?
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Post by CD on Apr 24, 2009 12:19:40 GMT
One tooth difference on the front is quite a high percentage = about three teeth at the back. A smaller front (lower gears) stresses the chain slightly more as the turning angle goes up slightly.
A one tooth change on the front should work with std chain. 3 teeth on the back might need a link longer (or shorter) in the chain.
Personally I'd not bother. The 600 isnt happy slogging along and that also puts more stress on the engine. Revving it more just uses more juice and unless 1st is too high, all we need to do is hold a lower gears a bit longer.
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Post by bomeister on Apr 24, 2009 16:54:47 GMT
Have had quite a bit of a play with the gearing on my 600N. I tried one tooth more on the front with 48 rear, just a bit too high, and then two less on the back (46 instead of 48) with the standard front. I found that the last combination was the best for me. The vibe period is neatly missed at 50 and 60 while 70 comes up at about 5500. First gear is very usable and 6th does not feel like and overdrive. With 46 rear I just about got away with chain adjustment with the standard N chain, but not a lot of further adjustment will be possible without shortening. As themrs2's bike is an S, it probably has the 46 rear as standard.
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Post by CD on Apr 25, 2009 14:13:26 GMT
I believe the 600N standard gearing is a bit lower than the 600S. Somebody will soon confirm.
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Post by pilgrim on Apr 25, 2009 21:01:01 GMT
I believe that to be true CD. I too wait for confirmation but when-ever I've quoted my bike as an 'N' it's always a 'Diversion'. So I've got a Diversion sprocket set on my bike. Not much difference, I know......  |
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Post by themrs2 on Apr 26, 2009 14:56:54 GMT
I believe that to be true CD. I too wait for confirmation but when-ever I've quoted my bike as an 'N' it's always a 'Diversion'. So I've got a Diversion sprocket set on my bike. Not much difference, I know...... I've checked the two over on Wemoto which is where I've found these sprockets and they appear to be identical. . . I think that's right? |
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Post by pilgrim on Apr 26, 2009 16:23:02 GMT
themrs2: they (Wemoto) do show the same toothed sprocket but you'd have to refer to original Yam specs. for the answer. Wemoto and other parts suppliers show the same Ignition Switch for both N and S models but they are extremely different!  |
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Post by themrs2 on May 1, 2009 7:05:19 GMT
Well (and I already feel a bit saft for this) how do we know if the parts we are buying are the right ones is there a listing of part numbers somewhere that can be used as reference or would you need the owner's manual? . . . :>
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Post by CD on May 1, 2009 7:22:43 GMT
I have not checked the details for 'S and 'N chains but you could start with the parts micro fisches listed on this very discussion board. !!!
I used to have a 600S and was happy with the gearing. I believe the N runs a lower sprocket ratio but personally I'd not have want it any lower than a standard 600S.
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Post by themrs2 on May 6, 2009 17:20:02 GMT
Cheers for that I hadn't noticed those . . . . probably should have read the details before clicking print though!!! DOH!!
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Post by amorti on May 7, 2009 7:11:16 GMT
The standard gearing is about right, IMHO. It'll top out just short of the redline in sixth if you can hold on, so you already get the most the bike has to offer.
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Post by CD on May 7, 2009 9:17:08 GMT
I think If I lived in the Alps (or maybe parts of Wales) I'd fit 1 tooth down on the front to drop the gearing slightly to give a low first gear, but in normal UK use the overdrive 6th is more useful.
Holding on - whip off the windscreen accelerate quickly and see what happens at about 50... Oh sh****
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Post by amorti on May 8, 2009 9:43:55 GMT
I think If I lived in the Alps (or maybe parts of Wales) I'd fit 1 tooth down on the front to drop the gearing slightly to give a low first gear, but in normal UK use the overdrive 6th is more useful. Holding on - whip off the windscreen accelerate quickly and see what happens at about 50... Oh sh**** My old CB-1 was good for about 125mph, and totally naked. That was something to hang on to, at least til I fitted a fly screen to it. Being 18 when I got it, it frequently got taken to those sorts of speeds too, up and down the A3 to uni. Happy - if stupid and reckless - days! |
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Post by General Gman on May 8, 2009 10:29:46 GMT
Your CB-1 obviously had a *very* optimistic speedo - I don't reckon you'd get more than 110 real miles per hour out of one.
My ZX9 will indicate just short of 190 on the clock, but I know it's around 174, according to GPS.
On a private road, of course.
Never, ever done it on the A41.
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