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Post by metalforever on Jan 25, 2009 15:28:10 GMT
This is out of sheer curiosity i ask, but what mods are commonly done to change the XJ600, i dont plan to mess with mine when i get it as i'd like to keep it as close to standard as practically possible but it does make me curious having come from fightering a gs500!
I expect things like a wider rear tyre, longer/sportier shock, uprated fork springs/oils or maybe even a new front end are common, but what about things like rearsets, tanks etc?
Im just wondering what people actually do to these mini tourers.
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Post by amorti on Jan 25, 2009 22:40:00 GMT
Just the exhausts (as they rust out) and a fair few screens (as the original is rubbish). After those it's probably fitting luggage. You have to look at what the bike is before you ask what people would do to make them sportier or faster - it's not a mini tourer at all, it's a commuter bike with very few aspirations  |
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Post by beeblemaster on Jan 25, 2009 22:51:23 GMT
Well mines been modded for practicality and reliability - got Givi wingrack, Scottoiler (Touring version), Heated grips, Accessory socket, Electric fuel pump (vaccuum alone is hopeless), Sintered Brakes, Stainless Brake lines, Crash Bars (which prevent you from ever crashing the bike  , manually switched carb heating  , Airhawk seat cushion. Would definitely like to modify the fork springs as they are pathetic, but at the moment will just put up with them the way they are, since it's only my winter bike + commuter. Used to run a 140/70-18 on the rear which felt better (possibly more grip), but these are almost double the cost of a 130, so ditched that idea. |
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Post by jestertoby on Jan 26, 2009 9:35:46 GMT
Done some modding, especially tires, brakes and suspension: Frontfork: full adjustable 41mm RSU from a FZR600R Shock: Wilbers Monoshock Tires: 120/60ZR17 on a 3,5"x17" Rim, 160/60ZR18 on a 4"x18" Rim Brakes: Dualdisc from FZR600R and some other more design changes, painting will come soon:  |
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Post by CD on Jan 26, 2009 15:31:15 GMT
Looks nice Derby to Turin over the Alps via the big St Bernard's pass fully loaded with luggage. Nah these bikes can't tour.  The best mods are engine protector bars, sintered brake pads and sensible luggage. A full size Givi setup carries loads but makes the 600 look like mobile luggage. |
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Post by metalforever on Jan 26, 2009 17:07:43 GMT
Yep well 'MY' xj600 (It is mine now, i've decided on that!) seems to be very well kitted out for what i'm after, full luggage and rack, heated grips, fender extender, crash bars, hugger, scottoiler.
I'm unsure how effective the standard brakes are but im sure if i have any issues with them a brembo master cyclinder, stainless lines and sintered pads will in theory sort that out a bit.
The only other thing i might even consider doing is trying to source a remotely adjustable rear shock and some progressive fork springs.
In reality id like to think it'll stay as standard as it is now!
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Post by amorti on Jan 26, 2009 20:39:02 GMT
The brakes are already too much for the front forks, that needs sorting first before you touch the brakes. The front caliper off an R6 fits the single disc bike mounting points, but clips the wheel.
Given there's loads of room from the disc to the fork leg you could grind some off the caliper, and space the disc out from the hub, and you could improve the brakes a lot. But only after you do something about the forks, and the easiest most reliable way to do that is as above - then the brakes are also already done.
Who's going to spunk brembo on a Diversion anyway?!
Jesterboy - ich glaub das ist doch nicht Dein Ernst - was hat der Kollege beim TUV zu Deinem Reifen zu sagen gehabt? Das passt Dein Mopped nicht, und zwar in jedem Sinn.
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Post by jestertoby on Jan 26, 2009 20:53:03 GMT
amorti: All modifications are legalised by our "TUV", the 160/60 on the 4" rim out of the FZR600 (1991 and on) fits in perfectly and is "plug'n'play" I was 1996 with my Bike in Portsmouth, a nice tour (2000 Km) through the south of England
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Post by amorti on Jan 26, 2009 23:52:33 GMT
In a few weeks I'll be shouting "Koelle Alaaf!". I was also in Cologne in October. Lovely city, great beer - shame about the tiny glasses  |
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Post by metalforever on Jan 27, 2009 7:38:03 GMT
Amorti, i work on a mates track bikes regularly so i have access to some interesting spares, it isnt actually a brembo lever and MC but a rip off type, however when we had his real brembo appart alongside the fake one theyre identical. and having tested them both we decided to buy the fake ones instead.
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Post by CD on Jan 27, 2009 15:38:18 GMT
Putting in a wider front wheel is probably not a good idea as the chassis will have been designed for the standard tyre combination. A wider front rim could mess up the handling (and cost loads more in tyres).
I have a pair of R6 calipers on my 900 - absolutely fab brakes. but I also have the R6 master cylinder so the lever travel and feel is all as it should be. The standard Divvie master cyl might be ok but if the hydraulic ratio is wrong the lever will move too much or feel "wooden". Careful measurement of total piston areas might help you decide.
If you can get hold of an R6 (or any of the other blue spot calipers, it has to be worth unscrewing the blue cap over the end of the caliper that's hitting the wheel. Then measure the internal depth and see how much metal can be safely removed. According to Gurninman Dave, the blue spot caps SCREW INWARDS !!!
Spacing the disc might also be an option, but check for clearance against the fork leg.
The later twin disc D600s are not much better than the single disc and they cost more to service.
The forks improve a lot with 15w fork oil. Progressive springs would also be good. My 900 however has the standard springs and 15/40 oil with blue spots and the brakes/suspension are fine. OK, I often use up all the suspension travel, but it's 260kg plus me and luggage, so with tele forks are unlikely to do anything else.
Some people complain about the D600 suspension, but IMHO its appropriate for the bike. It could be better, but its not (and never will be) a sports bike.
D
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Post by amorti on Jan 27, 2009 17:05:04 GMT
Amorti, i work on a mates track bikes regularly so i have access to some interesting spares, it isnt actually a brembo lever and MC but a rip off type, however when we had his real brembo appart alongside the fake one theyre identical. and having tested them both we decided to buy the fake ones instead. It might look the same, but the materials are unlikely to be the same, and you can't see that by looking. I've had a pattern brake lever snap off in my hand before, I'd rather not run the risk. I just bought a new OE lever pair for my fireblade: brake lever £17 and clutch lever £8 (+vat). To me that's much much better VFM than £15 for a pattern pair, even if it is near twice the price. Ultimately of course it's your choice, and if they work well then they work well. Not all chinese bits are made of monkey-metal, but the problem is it's so hard to tell materials without destructive testing and the copies aren't *that* cheap. I also struggle with trusting cheap seals after I've had a caliper rebuild set that *nearly* fit, but basically didn't, and after watching a set of cheap fork seals die again in very short order. |
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Post by CD on Jan 27, 2009 17:17:46 GMT
Who knows about the brembo master cylinders. I used the old MZ "rip-offs" for years with no problems.
But twice, I have had problems with brake piston seals that dont quite fit and jam the piston. It won't happen a third time. Sometimes, original parts are the only reliable option. Though the prices Yamaha charge for brake caliper seal kits is on the high side of... HOW MUCH!!!
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Post by bobh on Jan 27, 2009 18:54:35 GMT
CD, you're right that it costs more to overhaul twin front brakes than a single, of course. But it's still a lot cheaper (and a darn sight easier) to do the o.e. twin-pot cylinders than a set of 4-pot blue-spots.
I have to say that after I'd done the front calipers on my 2000 600N the stopping power was pretty good, even with the original hoses. Next mod would have been braided lines if I'd kept the bike, to improve the feel.
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Post by CD on Jan 28, 2009 18:36:03 GMT
Yes, I have that blue spots delight to come. I hear the spot caps have to be screwed inwards but have not (yet) needed to do the job. I'm planning to powder coat tha calipers so better get a mortgage arranged.  |
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Post by teejayexc on Jan 28, 2009 18:42:37 GMT
Yes, I have that blue spots delight to come. I hear the spot caps have to be screwed inwards but have not (yet) needed to do the job. I'm planning to powder coat tha calipers so better get a mortgage arranged. When you get your calipers powdercoated isn't it a bit tricky covering all the bits that don't want powdercoating? (was thinking of doing mine, but the faff put me off  ) |
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Post by metalforever on Jan 28, 2009 18:56:37 GMT
How would you powdercoat them if you didnt want the inside of the pistons doing?
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Post by amorti on Jan 28, 2009 19:42:36 GMT
Very careful masking. You can mask anything off with enough patience and tape. Take the bits to someone who *really* knows what he's doing. Or just use home-garage stuff from a spray tin, the effect can work out pretty well.
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Post by CD on Jan 28, 2009 20:53:53 GMT
The blue spots seem to have a wide piston clearance but time will tell. The standard divvie 900 rear caliper coated up nicely.
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Post by themrs2 on Apr 22, 2009 19:05:07 GMT
-:WARNING:-
possible blonde moment
-------------------------------
RE: Changing the rear wheel.
-------------------------------
It sounds like a stupid question to me but I have to ask anyway. When you change the rear wheel on the divvy 600. Do you take everything off the donor bike from the wheel to spindle? Like sprockets, spacers, cush rubbers etc?
I don't know a lot about mechanics so I'm going to try and learn on the div
Stu
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 22, 2009 19:10:17 GMT
-:WARNING:- possible blonde moment ------------------------------- RE: Changing the rear wheel. ------------------------------- It sounds like a stupid question to me but I have to ask anyway. When you change the rear wheel on the divvy 600. Do you take everything off the donor bike from the wheel to spindle? Like sprockets, spacers, cush rubbers etc? I don't know a lot about mechanics so I'm going to try and learn on the div Stu Hi Stu, not got a lot to do with mechanics (more being a tight git I think ), if you've got access to the lot take 'em, spare bits always come in handy. What's the reason you're changing the wheel? |
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Post by themrs2 on Apr 22, 2009 19:27:12 GMT
I'm only considering it as I recently got stranded in Cornwall after picking up a screw in the road and the bloke at the tyre centre refused to repair it as it'd already been done once. I phoned everywhere in the phone book looking for a replacement tyre but apparently there are only a few bikes that use the 130/70-18 and only a few manufacturers that produce them.
Anyways which bikes make good donors or would mean the least fiddling around?
Stu
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Post by CD on Apr 22, 2009 22:02:22 GMT
Be careful the sprocket / wheel spacing has to be correct or the chain wont run true. Also the D6 swing arm is not the widest on the planet so tyre clearance could bee an issue. Then there's the wheel spindle size/length to think about. If buying a spare Divvie 600 rear wheel - get the whole lot and replace all three bearings with integral sealed units.
Tyres - I always used BT45s. Not too bad on cost, ok service life and good grip.
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Post by amorti on Apr 22, 2009 22:08:15 GMT
amorti: All modifications are legalised by our "TUV", the 160/60 on the 4" rim out of the FZR600 (1991 and on) fits in perfectly and is "plug'n'play" Think this answers your question. It gives you 150/60-18, which is VFR400 size, so maybe a little bit more common? certainly a little wider and nicer to look at. |
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Post by CD on Apr 27, 2009 18:49:39 GMT
But will it affect the handling? Bikes actually steer better with narrow tyres, but wider tyres grip better (generally) so its a compromise.
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Post by amorti on Apr 28, 2009 7:16:32 GMT
Unless you often light up the rear 130, it's probably not worth anything as a handling "upgrade". It will look better though, and also some of us get a kick out of changing things just because we can.
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Post by CD on Apr 28, 2009 13:19:31 GMT
Absolutely just don't be kidded that fat tyres, loud cans, etc will actually make the bike go faster.
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Post by amorti on Apr 28, 2009 14:30:44 GMT
My bike has a remus stainless 4-1 system. It currently has the baffled can on, as I got bored of the neighbours being bored of me starting the bike at 7.30 every AM. Does it make the bike faster? Who knows*
The single biggest performance improvement on my bike so far was going from Avons to BT45s. That means I can now max out the bike (on a private runway) without the whole bike getting a weave on and threatening to throw me on the floor. It also means I can ride the bike in the rain, rather than just clinging on for dear life and wobbling around corners 50p style.
That and sorting the front brakes, which means I can now ride in confidence that I can E-stop if it came down to it, without continually second-guessing the bike.
I reckon the next big one will be sorting the forks.
*9,100rpm and 120mph indicated (I have a 110/70-17 on the front though) is possible, and feels fairly stable. It has no desire to go faster though. So I heard.
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Post by CD on Apr 28, 2009 21:32:12 GMT
Yep - good tyres and sorted forks would be my faves for the 600.
BT45s really suit the D600. Don't let the tyre fitters talk you into anything else.
BTW. I know a good guy for doing suspension mods like fork re-valves.
His web site is down but he's on 07979646495
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Post by metalforever on Apr 29, 2009 7:20:04 GMT
With regards to forks ive found simply putting a heavier fork oil was all i needed, i ended up with a 17w mixture as the 15 wasnt quite enough and 20 was a bit too much.
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, manually switched carb heating 
, Airhawk seat cushion.
)
