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Post by divi600 on Dec 15, 2008 18:45:18 GMT
Hi All,
I have decided to change my steering head bearings top & bottom and have come to a halt, i now need to remove both the upper & lower bearing outer races. I have very little to no lip to use to knock out these races, has anyone else come across this problem and solved it?
thanks
divi600
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Post by amorti on Dec 15, 2008 19:25:03 GMT
The bottom one has *just* enough lip to smack it by, there is a channel notched into the tube seemingly for that purpose.
If anyone knows how to get the top one out without using a welder to weld a lip on, I'd love to hear it.
ATM my bike has a needle bottom bearing and ball top bearing, as I just couldn't see how to move that one, and it wasn't marked so I just regreased and left it be. Turned out it was the bottom one that was no good.
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Post by teejayexc on Dec 15, 2008 19:59:26 GMT
If anyone knows how to get the top one out without using a welder to weld a lip on, I'd love to hear it. A slide hammer will do it, but they're not cheap  |
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Post by amorti on Dec 15, 2008 23:18:32 GMT
Seriously, the top race has close to no lip at all... I really don't even think you'd get a purchase that way.
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Post by divi600 on Dec 16, 2008 19:08:19 GMT
I am with you here amorti, i see the bottom outer race has a channel either side to access the race to aid knocing out. But the upper race has no lip to call a lip  might be 1000 of an inch if any. I do see a slight gap between race and frame but read to try and chisel here would just wedge the race and make even more difficult to knock out. |
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Post by amorti on Dec 16, 2008 19:41:13 GMT
Only way I could see was to run a lip of weld round the inside. I don't have a welder, so left it in there. Also you'd be stuffed if you accidentally fused the parts. If you have a dremel you might cut a slit in it and get it out, but you might blunt any blade as the metal is very hard. And you will damage the bearing seat, it's just a matter of degree.
I'd really like to hear from anyone who's done this job successfully as I ought to put the matching top bearing in eventually, it might settle the wobbles a bit.
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Post by divi600 on Dec 21, 2008 20:26:30 GMT
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Post by General Gman on Dec 22, 2008 12:27:32 GMT
Seriously, the top race has close to no lip at all... I really don't even think you'd get a purchase that way. Slide hammer does indeed do the job very nicely - you hardly need anything to get a hold of. And you can cut those races easily with a die grinder / dremel, they're not that hard at all. |
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Post by CD on Jan 5, 2009 23:20:44 GMT
My 900 had the same problem. The bottom race came out easily with enough lip to take the punch. The top race needed 2 people with a long sharp drift from below and a big screwdriver to keep it wedged against the top race. The new bearings have a wider base so should be easier to remove.
The inner race on the bottom yoke had to be welded around to loosen it. I did not want to grid it for fear of knicking the steering stem. Thankfully, I have a welder the heat loosened it and the weld bead gave me something to drift against. Once I got it started to was easy to knock off the steering stem.
Don't forget the bearings will settle down after fitting. You may need to adjust the head bearings a few times until they settle.
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Post by darren on Jan 16, 2009 13:08:10 GMT
they are indeed a pain in the preverbial, I purposly bent a large screwdriver to chisel from below, a good one at that, just to get the bugga out for last years MOT
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Post by CD on Jan 16, 2009 20:18:13 GMT
I had a 1/2" dia x 2ft long steel bar from below with my brother wedging it in place with a bif lump of steel bar. Every time I hit the 1/2" the thing jumped off the bearing. Eventually it loosened just enough to get some proper puirchase on it.
I dont have a slide hammer or the right sized disc to fit inside the Divvie steering head.
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might be 1000 of an inch if any. I do see a slight gap between race and frame but read to try and chisel here would just wedge the race and make even more difficult to knock out.
