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Post by shan on Jul 8, 2008 17:54:03 GMT
I have some problems with carbs in my Diversion 600 '92 4BR. The fuel expense is near 7.8-8 L/100 km. In the city it's more. Mix is rich. Adjustment and cleaning have been spent.
Diaphragms is wet inside (where air is), and i think to change needle sets (part number 4BR1490J0100, i don't know real name of it), because аge of a motorcycle is big.
The Question: What do you think about that? How much repair is cost? What can you advise, where i can buy or order a repair parts or kits?
And the large problem is that i'm living in Russia. I searched in Louis, but it has not resulted.
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Post by General Gman on Jul 9, 2008 8:34:26 GMT
Have you checked the diaphragms for splits and holes ? easy way is to hold them up to a light or a powerful torch. If you need new diaphragms they are expensive - about £30 each here in England. Did you check the float heights on the carbs ?
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Post by shan on Jul 9, 2008 9:18:36 GMT
Have you checked the diaphragms for splits and holes ? easy way is to hold them up to a light or a powerful torch. Yes i checked, they have a very little holes and wet insude, as i sad. I have seen a repair kits for carb and diaphragms, is it for divvy? Yes, I underestimated them, now the height is above on 1-3 millimetres
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Post by General Gman on Jul 9, 2008 10:41:16 GMT
ok, so you need diaphragms.The carb repair kits I have seen do not come with diaphragms. Give me a day and I will have a look around to see if I can find something suitable for less money
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Post by sotirisp on Jul 11, 2008 12:11:51 GMT
Where i live each diaphragm for my D4 (they are the same with the D6) costs 60Eur (Yamaha official parts). Had 3 broken diaphragms which means 180Eur. I went out and bought a used set of DIV6 carbs for 100Eur (still expensive ), which gave me 4 diaphragms in very good condition, almost new i'd say. Used 3 of them to replace my 3 broken and keep the 4th one for future use. Maybe you can try it too
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Post by General Gman on Jul 11, 2008 13:08:53 GMT
Yes, that was going to be my advice - I can't find diaphragms for less than about £30 GBP each
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Post by shan on Jul 15, 2008 16:30:51 GMT
General Gman, thanks for searching. In Russia 1 diaphragm cost ~£66 or ~$150. I'll try to find anything or maybe at the winter i'll buy a new diaphragms.
sotirisp, Where i live, Diversion is not popular model and it's a big problem to buy used details.
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Post by shan on Jul 15, 2008 17:02:48 GMT
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Post by General Gman on Jul 15, 2008 22:20:55 GMT
They are different carbs - not much, but they also have a throttle position sensor....
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Post by sotirisp on Jul 16, 2008 13:26:26 GMT
problem with ebay or any other online used carbs source, is that you can't know if the diaphragms are OK. I bought the used carbs i noted before from a local used parts shop and checked the diaphragms before buying 'em... Another option is repairing the diaphragms. They'll last some more but i don't know how much more... There is a product called PlastiDIP. Comes in spray or can and it's a thin rubber coating. Spray is what we need here, i read that people did apply a thin layer on their diaphragms holes and cuts and that did the trick for some time...Eventually you may or may not need new diaphragms but it's worth the try. Here is the product, they ship worldwide for a low cost: www.plastidip.co.uk/index2.cfm?page=products&prodId=1
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Post by kruzer on Aug 27, 2008 7:41:09 GMT
Hi.
As far as my (un)reliable suspicion prompts I’m suffering from carbies problem as well. These are the symptoms: 1) Mix is rich - ***only*** at low rpm’s. Definite unburnt fuel smell is felt. 2) After a wrist-twist rpm’s do not drop immediately: some hesitation around 2-2.2k and only then back to 1.2 k. Process takes 2-3 secs and feels like some small amount of fuel is captured somewhere while revving and needs to be burnt afterwards. 3) There is some idle rpm’s dependence to ambient (and engine itself) temperature. Cruising, normal temp riding results in usual 1.2 k while extremely hot days/prolonged heavy traffic filtering/jam idling gives 2 up to 2.3 k rpm. My belief is that all these symptoms might be closely connected and caused by the undertank Japanese quadruplet : )
Thus my natural consequent question is where to start the troubleshooting?
Thankful K.
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Post by CD on Aug 27, 2008 12:55:01 GMT
The choke plungers can stick open. You need to disconnect the actuating rod and unscrew the plungers tops with a good quality 12mm open end spanner (wrench). The rubber pad should feel soft when pressed (carefully) with a small screwdriver. It will have a dimple from pressing on the seat but that should not be really deep or ragged.
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Post by kruzer on Aug 28, 2008 16:14:58 GMT
Thanks Ch., worth checking.
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Post by shan on Sept 12, 2008 15:14:07 GMT
I bought new carbs, cost is neer 100 eur from model of 1993 year. Thanks to all for help.
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