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Post by council ( panman ) on Apr 10, 2007 22:13:30 GMT
hi my fjr cooling fan wont kick in when it should . and wont come on at all so i`m overheating in slow traffic
i have put a test from a battery to the fan connections and the fan comes on.
so as a temp measure can i fit a switch to turn the fan on when i need to ? also how would i do it ? also what gear would i need
i know nothing about electrics
cheers macca
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Post by theviking on Apr 10, 2007 23:30:24 GMT
hi my fjr cooling fan wont kick in when it should . and wont come on at all so i`m overheating in slow traffic i have put a test from a battery to the fan connections and the fan comes on. so as a temp measure can i fit a switch to turn the fan on when i need to ? also how would i do it ? also what gear would i need i know nothing about electrics
cheers macca First, This is the Divvy board, you might have more luck if you post your question HERESecondly, How do you know when the fan should cut in? Normally on the FJR the fan will only start on warm days in static traffic, you should see 4 bars on the temp gauge before the fan starts. Thirdly, If you don't have the knowledge, it will be cheaper to pay someone who does, checking and changing the thermostat is a simple job and it shouldn't cost a fortune.  |
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Post by werner1 on Apr 11, 2007 5:59:54 GMT
The fan isn't operated by the thermostat, but by a thermoswitch .
Check this first .
(nothing more as death weight, that watercooling-gismo) ;D
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Post by iooi on Apr 11, 2007 6:03:01 GMT
Thirdly, If you don't have the knowledge, it will be cheaper to pay someone who does, checking and changing the thermostat is a simple job and it shouldn't cost a fortune. I would say that the stat is not the issue, but the temp sensor switch which is either bust or the wires have got knocked off. It would be far easier to change said switch than to jury rig up a temp switch to the fan. |
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Post by m40man on Apr 11, 2007 6:50:12 GMT
"First,
This is the Divvy board, you might have more luck if you post your question HERE"Ouch! Harsh words on the site which welcomes all  (& knows pretty much everything  ) I'm sure council knows that quite a few members on here ride FJRs. Almost as common round here as Fazers ;D ;D ;D. TBH this is where I'd post any bike question - 'cos you're sure of a response in a timely manner. Some lesser sites take days  . As for the question: Council - have you considered filtering throu' the traffic onto clear roads ahead? Martin - Another Fazer rider .
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Post by 2old2boogie on Apr 11, 2007 7:05:18 GMT
THIS is the best site for your question Council!
The problem sounds like the sender unit. It's a thermally operated switch that, when the temperature of the coolant reaches a pre-determined level, starts the fan(s).
To check it, remove both wires from it and (with the ignition on) short them across with a bridging piece of wire. The fan(s) should cut in.
If they do, the sender is faulty and needs replacing.
All this assuming you have checked the circuit fuse!
Jim
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Post by General Gman on Apr 11, 2007 8:05:36 GMT
hi my fjr cooling fan wont kick in when it should . and wont come on at all so i`m overheating in slow traffic i have put a test from a battery to the fan connections and the fan comes on. so as a temp measure can i fit a switch to turn the fan on when i need to ? also how would i do it ? also what gear would i need i know nothing about electrics cheers macca It's a common one with FZRs, too - most owners fit a manual switch cos they get hot in traffic.My fan does come on, but it comes on when the motor is *very* hot, so I'll be doing the manual switch thing while I'm laid up. And I know about as much about electrics as the pope does about gynaecology. |
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welshy
Boy Racer
Welsh Dragon
Posts: 232
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Post by welshy on Apr 11, 2007 10:29:31 GMT
There shouldn't be any problem fitting an overide switch for the fan. If I was doing it, I would fit a relay so your current goes via the relay and not the switch and use an in-line fuse to protect against any shorts or over-currents.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Apr 11, 2007 15:40:14 GMT
hi my fjr cooling fan wont kick in when it should . and wont come on at all so i`m overheating in slow traffic i have put a test from a battery to the fan connections and the fan comes on. so as a temp measure can i fit a switch to turn the fan on when i need to ? also how would i do it ? also what gear would i need i know nothing about electrics cheers macca you probably have a faulty switch, which will be somewhere on the rad i guess, better to have a shop look at it, dont do what your suggesting as you need to be competent with electrics |
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Post by pebbles on Apr 11, 2007 15:55:05 GMT
if can find some where to locate the switch
it will be no problem to bypass the temp
sender unit just make sure the switch will
carry the amps which should be low anyway
e-mail if u need more info and i will give u my number
and talk u thro it
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Post by CD on Apr 14, 2007 14:13:05 GMT
Do be careful to wire the manual switch so it doesn't cancel out the standard temperature controlled switch. That way the standard switch will kick in the fan even if you forget to use the manual switch.
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Post by ddfjr on Apr 15, 2007 16:40:21 GMT
Had the same problem with mine  Fairing Off. Locate the Temp Sensor (fitted to the side of the rad) fit an in-line connector to BOTH wires and run through a relay and in-line fuse (as stated above). Locate switch in the fairing (as I have done) The auto switch still works BUT I can turn the fan on if it gets stuck. This is a much cheaper option than going down the Garage - replacement route, I was quoted £178.00 for a new sender  If you get stuck email / pm me and more than willing to talk you through it Colin |
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Post by council ( panman ) on Apr 15, 2007 18:58:31 GMT
cheers folks for the replies have found out the problem, it was a snapped wire under the tank. so thats sorted thank god . a new fan for the fjr is a whooping € 251.50 thats euro. but a new problem has arisen the t bar under the tank, the bolts have a tourque of 78nm the top one i have overdone it and now it wont tighten, so whats involved repairing threads ? cheers also have a really good site for parts for all makes it`s in euros but have good reports about it here it is see what ya think www.cmsnl.com |
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Post by theviking on Apr 15, 2007 21:37:07 GMT
Council,
To repair this thread, you might be able to helicoil it (but I don't know if you can helicoil something with 78nM on it) or drill it to the next size up and cut a new thread in it.
BUT as there is plenty of space underneath the "frame lug" the easiest thing to do would be to get a slightly longer bolt of the same size and put a nut on the underside (don't forget washer/spring-washer)
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Post by CD on Apr 17, 2007 15:25:07 GMT
78Nm is about 8 kg pulling at a radius of 1 metre or more than 50foot pounds. Hardly surprising the thread failed.
The book must be wrong or its actually 7.8Nm.
I strongly believe it pays to know when to stop regardless of the supposed torque setting. The book can be wrong, the wrench setting can be wrong, the wrench can be faulty, etc.
I only ever use a torque wrench on cylinder head studs, because they must be evenly tightened and often need more torque than "feels" right.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2007 19:10:53 GMT
 According to this from the FJR manual, torque figures are right. |
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Post by council ( panman ) on Apr 17, 2007 19:39:54 GMT
have you ever removed the T bar gordy ? scarey re tightening it mind if the bolts do snap can get them out easily i know this  |
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Post by CD on Apr 17, 2007 21:34:03 GMT
Oops soz - thought it was 8mm but even so it sounds one heck of the torque to use. The rear frame is same size & only 48Nm and (almost) all of the other 10mm are considerably less.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2007 21:35:09 GMT
Haven't been as far into mine as the T bar.
Setting the air balance was the first time I've lifted the tank.
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(& knows pretty much everything 
)
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