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Post by deek1922 on Jun 1, 2008 11:39:22 GMT
i,ve noticed oil coming from one of the oil cooler hoses,one that goes into the cooler,question is does the bike really need an oil cooler?,if you go to "bikebandit" on the web the schematic does not show a cooler on the bikes in north america and it gets a damn site hotter there than it does here.  |
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Post by dubster on Jun 6, 2008 17:51:57 GMT
Early UK models didn't have an oil cooler, mine included, however Yamaha must have fitted them to later bikes for a reason.
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Post by General Gman on Jun 6, 2008 21:52:21 GMT
I don't know why Yamaha felt a need to fit an oil cooler - the motor never really changed, there was no increase in powerf or later models... the early ones run fine without one. If you want to run without one you'll have to remove the sandwich plate and get the correct length hex nipple for the filter to mount on. Or... find summat else that fits - I bought a GSX750 oil cooler from ebay - thread pitch on the female inlets on the cooler were slightly finer, but I wound the banjos in as if I was tapping a thread - 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn out and it went on fine.Never leaked again.Mounted it with cable ties  |
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Post by CD on Jun 10, 2008 21:49:57 GMT
During hot weather in unfilterable traffic queues my 600 would get stinking hot. I really dont think that tiny oil cooler made much difference one way or the other.
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Post by amorti on Jun 11, 2008 18:48:03 GMT
how can you tell if an air cooled engine is over heating anyway??
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Jun 11, 2008 18:55:51 GMT
how can you tell if an air cooled engine is over heating anyway?? It makes a horrible noise shudders and comes to a complete halt. With any luck you will be stationary at the time if not you will soon be. Neil |
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Post by General Gman on Jun 11, 2008 21:24:25 GMT
how can you tell if an air cooled engine is over heating anyway?? First sign is that it loses power (and there's not much to lose in the first place with a divvy 6). Then, as the Lord Protector said, it'll eventually die. |
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Post by amorti on Jul 4, 2008 20:07:11 GMT
Well, it came around to me. Giving the bike its weekly dirt-scrape (not a wash, you can't polish a turd  ) and I noticed the cooler has come adrift of the bottom plate, which happens to have the bottom (main) two mounting points on it, so it's now basically hanging off the pipes, which are well documented as being fragile. My solution? Well, there's a new shorter union bolt and o-ring in the post from fowlers; I'm just going to remove the whole assembly. I could take the rad to be repaired, I guess, but what if I take it all off and it splits across the banjos? Or I get it to the rad repair place (Serek's in Portsmouth) and they say it's a lost cause, or that they need 2 weeks to turn it round. Nah, it's coming off, easiest way. Never heard of the earlier bikes exploding through over heating, and the bikes must run hotter in the USA than here. Top thread at the Other Place. www.bikersoracle.com/yamahadiversion/forum/showthread.php?t=1032 Basic thing is to get a shorter part 10, new o-ring 9, and remove the whole shooting match. That pair of bits, posted with VAT, was bloody £26 though, so best just to hope yours doesn't break. I was proper shocked at the price, must say. I guess it's a specialized bit, but still, that bolt thing costs near on £20 with VAT on its own, even without the post. |
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Post by beeblemaster on Jul 4, 2008 21:12:26 GMT
I could be wrong but I'm sure I recall Doof saying that her first D6 (no oil cooler) used to overheat in traffic. Mind you, I don't leave any of my bikes running long while stationary.
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Post by amorti on Jul 4, 2008 22:37:32 GMT
Mine gets 20 miles there, 20 back, most of it motorway. I don't do traffic (daahling) so even if I'm moving slow, I'm moving all the time.
Only thing that bothers me is whether I have to take the fairing lower off. It's not my favourite thing, but a dam sight easier to clean than the engine. I guess I see how it goes - it's not going to get much warmer than it is now, so it's the time to test it out.
I think it would be known if the engines had a tendency to overheat to the point where it's a problem. I guess in the worsterest case it seizes, but that takes a lot and is unlikely to happen in my mind.
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Post by CD on Jul 4, 2008 22:40:10 GMT
Motor manufacturers say they dont fit anything for the sake of it so presumably Yamaha considered an oil cooler was worth the expense. Over-heated oil loses its engine protection abilities so maybe best to change it more often if there is no oil cooler.
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Post by amorti on Jul 4, 2008 23:22:47 GMT
I might get it all off and find it looks repairable, in which case it might eventually get fixed. But seriously, I see no issue with putting it to the same spec as the previous year had. I do see what you mean with nothing for no reason, but I also removed the top rocker cover breather, on the logic that it causes oil mist in the airbox and puddle under the breather, and isn't there on the USA bike. The bike runs and starts fine. So perhaps that part was there for no reason... Over the w/e I'll take a picture of something else I've taken off that wasn't needed, see what the collective thinks - I've got to make back the weight of the fairing lowers and top case somehow |
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Jul 5, 2008 0:12:08 GMT
Rip it all of make it lighter make it faster.
A short life but a happy one.
Neil ;D
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Post by amorti on Jul 5, 2008 15:19:35 GMT
Well, it's done.
The cooler had actually come adrift from the top and bottom bars (so all 3 mount points) so was entirely hanging off the pipes. In fairness, it was oil tight (until I mullered it to get it off, the pipe brackets were seized so required persuasion) but I seriously doubt, with the vibes and its location in the path of spray and salt, it would have been for very long.
Not sure if there's a no-return valve, but only the oil out the filter and pump came out, so a little top-up will see it right - oil's <2k old. Didn't need the o-ring (though I guess it was wise to have it ready) so the job "only" needed to cost the £19.77 + post (!) that the shorter union bolt cost me. One less thing (broken) on the bike, so I'm happy.
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Post by amorti on Jul 6, 2008 20:47:01 GMT
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Post by Doofer on Jul 6, 2008 23:17:25 GMT
My first Divvy6 didn't overheat in traffic, it heat seized on the M6  Amorti, if you still have the longer union bolt for the oil filter, I'd happily buy it off you as I'm after one to fit an oil cooler to an earlier model, I've got everything else just haven't got round to ordering the union bolt yet. Doof |
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Post by amorti on Jul 7, 2008 19:44:48 GMT
Make me an offer, bearing in mind the short one is £19.77 + post from Fowlers... I've got a brand new o-ring for behind the adapter too. You might/might not need it, but it's handy to have one ready in case, and I have no use for it. Does the older model have the brackets for the cooler then?? How hard were you pushing it to seize on the motorway!? That's a worrying tale. Have a look at that diagram, check quick if you have "all" the other bits, inc eg the little spacer part 11, check before the bin men come to my street on Wednesday morning Think the rest of the little bits are part of a non return valve, and don't fall out. |
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Post by General Gman on Jul 7, 2008 21:25:00 GMT
£19-odd ?
Would have thought think automotive would have had one to fit...for a couple of quid.
I know when I used to build race car kits, we had a stock of all different sizes, both metric and all the different mad pipe standards.
Maybe I'll go into business supplying oil coolers again and making nice stainless lines.
Anyone got a swaging machine they want to sell ??
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Post by nik2900 on Jun 3, 2009 12:22:38 GMT
speaking with a mechanic friend of mine about removing the oil cooler and he said "how have they blanked off where bolt 17 goes into, where it connects the oil cooler pipe?" I said I'm not sure, I'll post and see who replies |
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Post by amorti on Jun 3, 2009 13:12:05 GMT
Didn't! Used a shorter union bolt (10) and removed the whole housing etc (1), it seemed a surer way to go about it. I don't know but suspect you might have to put a pipe across the two holes, if you wanted to go about it that way? It's been a year since I did the mod.
For the record, the bike is still running fine. Well... fine for a '97 D6 with 55k miles on it, which is to say it makes rattly clutch and ticky head noises, and also a little bit of oil seepage from somewhere. Don't really know where, might be the camchain tensioner gasket, might be the head gasket, might be the base gasket but it's tiny and takes so long to build up I haven't been able to trace it. Draw your own conclusions about the cause... if it's a warped head caused by overheating oil, I'd be surprised enough to eat my own hat. After all 92-97 bikes are the same bike, and didn't have coolers, and they're not known for warping heads or overheating.
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) and I noticed the cooler has come adrift of the bottom plate, which happens to have the bottom (main) two mounting points on it, so it's now basically hanging off the pipes, which are well documented as being fragile.
