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Post by yan101 on Apr 27, 2008 18:42:05 GMT
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 27, 2008 19:13:49 GMT
Yes they'll be ok, they are the budget replacement ones.
Most go for the HH sintered ones on the front for a bit better stopping power. Or go for the other GG ones listed for your model and year if you don't want to splash out on the HH.
HTH Trev
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Post by beeblemaster on Apr 27, 2008 19:17:28 GMT
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Post by cam7777 on Apr 27, 2008 19:43:37 GMT
Yep, used those myself, absolutely no problem when fitted to a divvy....got them on my 600 and 900.
HTH
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Post by amorti on Apr 27, 2008 20:07:50 GMT
I've said it before and will say it ad nauseum - EBC HH are not good, and certainly not something I would fit. They eat discs. If you disagree with me, see what happens after you've been through two sets of EBC HH or more, the disc will be far more eaten than needs be.
I used to use nissin original equipment on my honda, I don't know what I'll put in the divvy when it comes, but it won't be EBC. Nor Ferodo, I have bad experience of them in the rain. Nor Armstrong, they are shocking in the rain, downright dangerous in fact. Maybe I will try those goldfrens, the supermoto boys like them which is always a good sign.
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Post by General Gman on Apr 27, 2008 20:15:39 GMT
EBC HH work very well, but I don't know about disc wear cos I don't use them.
I've used Armstrong HH pads and they've been fairly decent, even in the rain.Goldfren are no better, certainly.
Ferodo have loads od different compounds, so depends what you bought.....
I have at present got Carbon Lorraine A3+ pads on the front of the ZX, and they are a revelation - they don't have to warm up to work properly like the SBK ones do, and feel is excellent.
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Post by yan101 on Apr 27, 2008 22:19:11 GMT
thanks for the replies fellas, one more thing, i read on a review site that if you want to replace just the pads that you have to messa round replacing the fluid and bleeding the brakes, is that the case or can i remove the old pads, push back the pistons and putin the new ones?
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Post by amorti on Apr 27, 2008 22:35:13 GMT
GMan, the EBC ones work fine but it's too expensive for my mind to keep changing the discs! I'd rather have a soft pad to replace more often.
Armstrong are truly awful though, I borrowed my dad's CB1 for a week during which it rained most days, they work about OK in the dry, but just didn't work in the wet. Nothing, nothing, nothing.. bite! Well, nibble anyway.
Ferodo was once upon a time on a Sunday afternoon as the only place I could find to get parts was halfords. Some kind of HH I imagine. That may be a bit harsh though, looking back I think the caliper was needing some work at the time.
My housemate has SBK Carbon Lorraine pads and his verdict was ok when cold, great when heated through. Thing is, he rides fast and I don't! Might give the A3 ones a try then, thanks for the tip.
Don't necessarily worry about the fluid. Just pump the brake out, clean the pistons with a nylon brush (wilkinsons, B+Q) and use a G clamp to squeeze them back in. Then new pads and reassemble. You may need to remove the reservoir lid to allow the fluid to go from the caliper back up, as the pads will be thicker now.
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Post by taint on Apr 28, 2008 8:33:54 GMT
If you are pushing the pistons back in, just watch that the reservoir doesn't overflow. This won't normally be a problem, unless the reservoir has been topped up since the pads have been installed. Aside from that, you shouldn't need to muck around with brake bleeding. If, however, you pop the lid off the reservoir and you're met with a nasty smell; such as rotting fish, it may be that the fluid has gone bad and a change would be worthwhile. If you're popping the reservoir lid watch the screws; as they have a nasty habit of stripping the top; as the mild steel is more often than not seized. If you can replace with stainless it's worthwhile; though I can't currently remember the screw size  And the next thing you know, the bike will be in bits and the obsession to get it 'just right' will have started ;D ;D Now if I could only put the bliddy thing back together... T. |
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Post by Padster on Apr 28, 2008 10:04:11 GMT
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Post by cam7777 on Apr 28, 2008 12:04:55 GMT
thanks for the replies fellas, one more thing, i read on a review site that if you want to replace just the pads that you have to messa round replacing the fluid and bleeding the brakes, is that the case or can i remove the old pads, push back the pistons and putin the new ones? I always clean the pistons up before pushing them back HTH |
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Post by amorti on Apr 28, 2008 12:54:59 GMT
thanks for the replies fellas, one more thing, i read on a review site that if you want to replace just the pads that you have to messa round replacing the fluid and bleeding the brakes, is that the case or can i remove the old pads, push back the pistons and putin the new ones? I always clean the pistons up before pushing them back HTH +1 - it's going to save you trying to force it, and potential save you ripping the dust or oil seal by forcing muck against it. Doesn't take much longer, but FFS don't use a steel brush or you'll mark the plating and it'll rust. |
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rossm
Scooter Rider
Posts: 68
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Post by rossm on Apr 28, 2008 13:56:35 GMT
*Sigh* thanks I think, I really can't see things like this without buying them and I see they do the engine kit and bits for my kwaker |
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Post by darren on Apr 28, 2008 15:58:47 GMT
I useually go for sintered pads with a brass flek in them and not the copper flek, they dont wear the discs out as bad
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