Removing Rear Wheel and Swing Arm on an XJ600

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YAMAHA DIVERSION CLUB
TECHNICAL LIBRARY
ARTICLE 03/06 - REMOVING REAR WHEEL AND SWING ARM ON AN XJ600S
Written by Trevor James, August 2003

This procedure was performed on a 1994 XJ600S. Later models may be a little different, as may be the torque wrench settings.

Things you will need:
Haynes manual (preferable but not essential)
Copper grease for use on reassembly
Waterproof bearing grease
2 split pins

Tools:
12mm open end and 12mm ring spanner
17, 19, and 22mm Sockets (and/or ring spanners). Hex sockets are preferred, as they offer a better fit. Make sure that your 22mm socket will fit on the swing arm pivot nut - I had to buy another one, as my original one was too fat to fit inside the hole in the frame.
Pliers
Phillips screwdriver
Torque wrench

Before tackling this job, read through this document and be certain that you are confident and capable of doing it, and that you have (or can borrow) the necessary tools. Otherwise, take the bike to your local workshop.

Also, if you are doing this to replace the chain and sprockets, loosen the front sprocket before taking the wheel off, as you need to be able to use the back brake to do this.

Start - bike on centre stand

Undo the 2 screws and remove the chain guard, then remove the split pin from the spindle nut and loosen (but do not remove) the nut


Use 2 12mm spanners and fully slacken chain adjusters both sides


Push the wheel forward as far as you can (be careful not to push the bike off the stand!)


Unhook the chain from the top of the sprocket and rotate wheel backwards. Don't trap your fingers!


Support the weight of the wheel and slide out the spindle


Lift the brake caliper up out of the way and wangle the wheel out. Don't lose the spacer either side of the wheel. You can see why I was removing the wheel - very well worn and squared off tyre to be replaced.



OK - so now you've probably saved yourself some cash by removing your own wheel instead of getting the tyre fitter to do it.
While the wheel is out of the way, you may want to remove the swing arm to re-grease the bearings. Make sure you use waterproof bearing grease.



Slide out the chain adjusters from the ends of the arm.

Unbolt the brake torque arm from the swing arm and support it with a bit of wire. Also remove anything else attached to the arm (e.g. chain oiler tube)


Undo and remove the nut and bolt securing the shock absorber to the swing arm. Support the arm as you do this. I actually used a socket and ring spanner to do this, not the open-ender seen in the picture

Remove the blanking cap, then unscrew the nut from the end of the swing arm pivot. Support the swing arm as you push/pull out the spindle.

Lower the swing arm and remove it from the bike.


Reassembly is the reverse, but note the following points:
It's much easier to align the two spindles if you have a helper taking the weight of the swing arm or wheel.
Don't forget the spacer each side of the wheel (a bit of waterproof grease should be applied to the seal lips)
Grease the spindles lightly with waterproof grease before replacing them.
Use a new split pin on the rear spindle nut and the brake torque arm nut.

Use copper grease on the screw threads, to aid future disassembly.

Tension the chain carefully (40mm of play at the centre point of the bottom run), and make sure that the adjusters are even each side, and that the wheel is straight. Remember to tighten the adjuster locknuts.

Torque wrench settings are:
Brake torque arm 22 lb-ft
Shock absorber lower pivot 46 lb-ft
Swing arm pivot 66 lb-ft
Rear spindle 75 lb-ft


The author will not be held responsible for any loss or damage arising out of the use of this document. It is your responsibility to make sure that you have the facilities and the capability to complete the job safely.