Confessions of a scrubber ??

[adbru]

That got your attention

Looking for cleaning tips...

I have been using the bike as my preferred mode of transport all winter (or at least when there is no ice !!)

Gave the bike a good clean yesterday and I see now why people have a second bike as a winter hack

Bike has been getting cleaned but the winter is taking its toll (sorry Roger ..)

The Exhaust cans were looking particulary dull with tar spots etc on them, the usual cleaning methods failed to shift it so I had a look in the garage.....
Tried this stuff I had borrowed from work... Holy Sh*t !!
Its a label remover, not sure whats in it but i think its must be banned in most civilised countrys !!
I will make sure it doesnt go anywhere near plastics or hoses but the exhaust shines like Pooh's bike !!

So next question -- Some parts seem to have gone very dull (non-chrome bits) ,rear brake lever, footrest hangers, oil cooler pipes etc etc.

Is there any way to bring them back to life ??

I plan to concentrate on one part each time i wash the bike so then it should all be restored to its glory

So can you share your cleaning secrets ??

Adbru


How about a Pooh Master Class ?? Reaper can video it on the Jock Run

[Pooh(c)]

'fraid there's no shortcuts to getting the hangers clean.

Easiest way I found was to get a drill with one of those cotton buffing wheels on it and tube of Autosol metal polish. Buffing wheel costs a couple of quid,

Remove the hangers and just polish them up. It doesn't take that long but does make a huge difference.

Re the rear brake lever. That's more of a problem if it's like the 900 one which is chromed. If it's corroded you could try the autosol/polishing wheel method but it'll only go so far before you start to polish off the chrome and get to the base metal

[jeepster1]

Damn that's a super shiney bike, if mine was like that i'd be afraid to ride it.

[Welsh Ade]

have to agree its autosol polish and then protect polished parts with a small amout of ACF 50.

[Fiasco]

jeepster1 said:

d**n that's a super shiney bike, if mine was like that i'd be afraid to ride it.

Bear in mind by polishing it he saves a fortune in petrol

Dave ;D

[CD]

But he's got the tax disc the right way up on the near side of the bike.
Mines upside down peeping out from behind the pillion footrest (and conveniently a right bu**er to rip off ;D).

Does anyone know what engineering companies use as protecting grease for metal parts? A long time ago I had a can of the stuff it was great value as not made "specially for bikes". It protected the bike all winter and washed off easily with Gunk.

These days I can't find anything like it.

[General Gman]

chirodave said:

But he's got the tax disc the right way up on the near side of the bike.
Mines upside down peeping out from behind the pillion footrest (and conveniently a right bu**er to rip off ;D).

Does anyone know what engineering companies use as protecting grease for metal parts? A long time ago I had a can of the stuff it was great value as not made "specially for bikes". It protected the bike all winter and washed off easily with Gunk.

These days I can't find anything like it.

When I used to work on the shop floor of an engineering company we used to use rustilo DWX to protect iron and steel machined faces.spray it on and if sort of semi sets - easily removed with degreaser.Quality stuff as long as the meatal is dry when it goes on, otherwise just seals any water in.
Think it's only available in 30 lts or bigger tho

[CD]

I've no idea what I used (it was back in the 70's) but the DWX sounds similar except my stuff was in an aerosol can. The stuff I had went on like thick WD40 and set like a dryish grease. It protected my Kawa 400 chrome all winter, including wheel rims. The downside was any missed patches got hammered and the bike looked s**t until the spring.

[Deleted]

You can wash as many times as you like but that bl**dy salt gets in some un-reachable places.
While re-fitting the back wheel today I noticed the brake pads were tight in the caliper, although it had been working ok. On removing them and the thin steel 'guides' (on the FJR), I found the culprit. About 4 lumps of salt, impossible to see, between the steel and the caliper. A bronze wire brush wouldn't shift it, so a screwdriver was used.

[adbru]

Ok, I'll try some pics.....

Exhaust can BEFORE





Exhaust can AFTER





Looks a bit better

[adbru]

Need to work on the other bits now

Hangers next maybe....

[Pooh(c)]

I'm just glad you wern't wearing a kilt when you took the picture.

[Deleted]

Is that a restrictor in the RH silencer? ;D

[billywhizz]

when that bike was owned by it's previous loving kind guy, ;D the exhaust only got that dirty ONCE, and that can be blamed on M40man and one of his runs.. and it had the clean treatment as soon as arrived home,
But adbru, even when it was used on the Scottish runs, it didn't get THAT dirty!!

It will be fully scrutinised in May, and fines WILL be levied for all damages and dirt stains not present when passed over. ( might have some beer money then )

Gordy..
that restrictor was not present when purchased !

[judi]

pooh said:

I'm just glad you wern't wearing a kilt when you took the picture.

I'm not

[CD]

Plated steel parts like rear brake levers are probably best thoroughly cleaned and painted with a good zinc-based primer. If you're loaded you could get it chromed.

If you aren't so flush the parts could be powder coated or zinc electroplated. Unfortunately the plating is a boring grey colour so has to be painted with an etch primer. But it should last for ever.