Stainless Allen bolts screws etc

[leehenty]

Use this supplier for all my bolts etc. You can order one twos and threes if you like. Good for long M6 sizes. You must know the thread sizes though. Beware of 10mm bolts. The Japs use a 1.25 fine pitch. so you need to look in the 'fine pitch' section for these. Very quick delivery.

www.a2stainless.co.uk

For the rubber well nuts in the fairing www.hyperbolt.co.uk seem good for these.

[Pops]

Thanks for the stainless bolt link.
The Hyperbolt link does not work but good if you want to buy property.

[CD]

I've been very impressed by these guys. Cant see an online or mail order service but perhaps worth a call.
www.pughandsanders.co.uk/

[theviking]

Stainless.....Hmmm, there is a thought..

More and more people are replacing their standard bolts with stainless, on anything from fairing fasteners to the bolts that holds the break system together.

And each time I see the nice shiny bolts on the break calliper or disc, the engineer in me cringes.

Why?
Before you decided to replace the original bolt, did you check the tensile strength of the replacement?
-Thought not.

Standard stainless (read cheap) is much weaker and in most cases, more brittle, than normal iron, not the best thing to hold vital parts of a vibrating/moving machine together with.

There are high tensile stainless but it is more expensive and harder to find.

I don't want to put you off, I just hope that you will think before you fit.

[CD]

Viking has a serious point. I have to admit I've used stainless bolts on the front brake caliper mountings. I reasoned the aluminium is weaker than even an ordinary steel bolt, so stainless should be ok. That said I would never use stainless on the disc to wheel mounting bolts - they screw into soft alloy but handle very high shear forces so must be the original equipment.

I dont think the low spec stainless used most fasteners is actually brittle, but it is unyielding so the threads cant spring into each other and they shake loose. Nyloc nuts help but, oddly enough, it also "picks up" (self-welds) if you get too enthusiastic. An anti sieze paste probably helps but then they'll also shake loose even more easily.
I have found that for normal strength jobs stainless bolts and ordinary steel nylock nuts seem to work ok.

BTW on the MZ 250 I used stainless bolts and carbon steel nuts on the top shock absorber mountings. They neither shook loose or showed any sings of being too weak and IMO they get a severe bashing from the suspension.

[HRHpenfold]

theviking said:

Stainless.....Hmmm, there is a thought..

More and more people are replacing their standard bolts with stainless, on anything from fairing fasteners to the bolts that holds the break system together.

And each time I see the nice shiny bolts on the break calliper or disc, the engineer in me cringes.

Why?
Before you decided to replace the original bolt, did you check the tensile strength of the replacement?
-Thought not.

Standard stainless (read cheap) is much weaker and in most cases, more brittle, than normal iron, not the best thing to hold vital parts of a vibrating/moving machine together with.

There are high tensile stainless but it is more expensive and harder to find.

I don't want to put you off, I just hope that you will think before you fit.

this is true


but in practice there is that much of a safety margin built in that even normal stainless bolts would be ok, steel bolts will stretch more before shearing though