engine rattle when idleing

[bostonboy]

ive only just got my bike and got it started no problem but there is a rattel while its ticking over what could it be clutch or something worse. its a 1992 600. also while im listing this what oil should i use when i change it and whats the part number for a oil filter. thanks dan

[ddfjr]

bostonboy said:

Ive only just got my bike and got it started no problem but there is a rattle while its ticking over what could it be clutch or something worse. its a 1992 600. also while I'm listing this what oil should i use when i change it and whats the part number for a oil filter. thanks Dan

Hi Dan


I think you will find that what you can hear is the in-famous Divvy Clutch Rattle
A fair few of the 600 Divvy's suffer with this I am afraid, a few members have repaired it and I am sure someone will be along soon to explain or point you in the right direction.

Oil & Oil Filters
The Oil Debate is still on-going (has been for the past ..........Years LOL ;D
Oil Filter......EBay = Item Number 290143246955

Good Luck

DD

[bostonboy]

ive done the pin and thats nice and tight.

the bike lookin through the service history only had a new clutch 18 months ago.

ive done oil change and filter change.

BUT there is still a rattle .

could it be the thrust bearing it looked worn but i can find one anywhere.

so i guess some one here can point me in the direction of a website that sells them. or is it just find my local yam dealer.

thanks dan

[taint]

I believe I have a similar rattle, but it comes and goes. It even does it while moving.

Aside from the clutch pin, the other cause, I've heard from several members, is the cam chain tensioner or at worst the chain itself. I think someone mentioned taking out the tensioner, cleaning it and re-torquing it on the general board just recently. I'll see if I can find the exact topic.

I hope this helps

T.

[taint]

Try:

diversionclub.proboards74.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=1185623980

It's the article I was thinking of.

T.

[bostonboy]

i will strip her down and have me a little look but after ive got a new thrust bearing to see if thats the cause (save me work)

cheers dan

p.s. does anyone know where i can get the bearing online or the sizes of it

[taint]

The Tech section has the D600 fiches; which would get you a part number, but no sizes

As for suppliers, I've no idea. I'd usually try Wemoto or M&P, but I'm sure there will be many others you can try.

I hope this helps

T.

[bostonboy]

ive been told by a bike shop that the rattle could be due to the valve clearance and the carbs arn't balanced correctly, causing the valves to knock on the crank. is this correct could this be the problem.
dan

[El Fuego]

I'm not conversant enough with engines to dispute that theory, but it sounds very like bike shop speak for "let us look at it so we can fleece you for hods of dosh".

[bostonboy]

true im gonna try everything myself but the carbs are a little to much for me to take on i think im good at engine stuff but i think if i was to do it with out supervision i wud mess it up. if some one wants to help me either in person or just some good advice on how to do it.

what do i need to look for on the cam chain and the cam chain tensioner when i get round to look at them.

dan

[bostonboy]

ive done the thrust bearing and it a bit quieter but there is still a rattle. is there anyone near boston lincs that would like to come help me look at the cam chain / tensioner (probs spelt completly wrong but thats me........wrong ;D) and what would be even better is if someone could help me do that and valve clearances & balance the carbs then she shud purrrr.

dan

[billywhizz]

hey the tappety tap fom the valves would be different to the rattle of the tensioner!
Valves should be checked every 24000 miles ( if i recall)

Carbs balancing is quite easy, if your mechanically minded, which I ain't!!! if the carbs are out, you will notice a vibe through the bars and foot pegs....
few members have the balancing gauges, and may be prepared to help you. takes about 15 mins.
At the derby run, trev & litle beebs ran a bike clinIc and balanced carbs for £2 !!!

Ask on the general board, might get some others views and a offer of help as well !!

[bostonboy]

the bikes done alot of miles (84,000)alot, i dont know when the valves were last done so probs need doing. so i need to do them. (possible will get the granddad to help he used to have a bike repair shop) i will ask on the general board for if someone can come balance my carbs (£10 in it for whoever wants to do it but will need to do it at my house (i live in boston lincs) so £10 and coffees ;D)

cam chain tensioner cant be that hard to do so i will try to do it myself.

dan

[billywhizz]

Dan
carbs can be done easily, hope you get a taker for the help.

Valves check, the engine must be stone cold !! so couldn't do carbs then valves, but could vice versa. but valves check will take time, and if any shims required have to find a source!!

[CD]

The cam chain can probably be swapped without stripping the engine using a split link type. However at the sort of mileage the tensioner will be worn and that will not be happy running on a new chain. Its unlikely the tensioner can be swapped without a major stripdown (engine out, etc).

PS The bike shop is talking rollox - if the valves could hit the crank the engine wouldn't run as there are should be pistons and conrods in the way!!! Even a badly worn cam chain wont affect the valve timing enough for valves to hit pistons. But a badly worn camchain can flap about and do all sorts of other damage.

Its well worth getting it checked out (IMO not at the original shop), but at those miles it might be cheaper to find a low mileage replacement engine.

[General Gman]

Firstly..... it is possible that it's the camchain - the bikes got a fair amount of miles on it, but it's easier to check the tensioner - if it's in decent nick, clicks out freely and is not fully extended then the camchain is probably fine.
Valves need to be checked before balancing the carbs - it's an easy job to check them, it's getting the shims that can take time.
do the shims, get the carbs balanced and see how it sounds.

Even a badly worn cam chain wont affect the valve timing enough for valves to hit pistons. But a badly worn camchain can flap about and do all sorts of other damage.

Hmm... if the camchain is loose enough to jump the sprockets (it can happen), then you can easily get a valve/piston interface that is gonna end in floods of tears

[bostonboy]

the bike only cost me £300 inc delivery from bristol to boston so she wasnt expensive i can do most of the jobs on her if i had the time and shims and gauges i could even strip her down and rebuild her so gettin a new engine wudnt be as fun or forfilling as fixing the original one myself. i still dont get the cam chain thing myself allthough my m8s a meccy and hes said all he thinks needs doin is the valve clearances and carbs but still need the time and parts to do it does anyone know where i can get the shims i may need and a set of gauges to buy or borrow ( i will return in the same order as i recieved them without fail if anyone is so kind )

maybe do the cam chain some point but its not the issue i dont think she had a tentioner on 08/08/2002 so 45k ago and from the service hist i cant see she ever had a new cam chain is this bad ?

dan

[max900]

I have had a look around and cant find anything about the camchain needing changing at a particular mileage, its a case of change it when the old one becomes rattly not much help really, unfortunately the rattle from the shims needing doing and the camchain are nearly the same and they both disappear when the engine is revved up, but since your going to pop the valve cover off to do the shims you will be able to see the camchain remove the left hand engine cover and use the nut to rotate the engine and you will get a good look at all of the chain if there is no obvious damage check the tension across the top of the chain, from my experience if a bike hasn't been thrashed to death and has had regular oil changes then the camchain is the last thing to go
the camchain Tensioner is very easy its located in the back of the engine(above the gearbox) and is one large nut and 2 smaller ones undo the large one first(watch it don't spring out and bugger of )then undo the 2 smaller ones and remove the tensioner check the end of it for damage (if its ok) clean it up and put it back together again(not forgetting to reset the tension arm back to the first notch)
give the engine a couple of turns(with the big nut on the left)to help seat it all again and double check the tension, then carry on with the shims, remember to do the shims on a cold engine and only fiddle with the carbs once the shims are done and finished with

Max............

[bostonboy]

thanks i will do that good bit of info there

dan