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Post by jaspermcrundgren on Jul 24, 2007 18:34:21 GMT
Giving my 600 a general going over. Thought I'd be superbrill and remove the brake disc to help give wheel a good scrub. Wish I hadn't bothered. Allenhex bolts and me with allen key don't make a good match. Two came off cleanly enough - the other 4 hex sockets rounded out. I had to shape the rest of the heads (with angle grinder) to a 13mm hex for a socket to fit. Removed the other 4, 1 cleanly, one with a slight thread strip, and the other two sheared off - not at the head, but leaving about 5mm of bolt still 'down there'. Do I get them drilled out and rethreaded, or do I go for another wheel which would probably be cheaper in the long run. Brake disc removed, seems ok. Thanks for potential advice.
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Post by Padster on Jul 24, 2007 19:02:08 GMT
A competent mechanic will get them out quite quickly. The thread will probably re-tap and as long as you use a long bolt and loctite it in it should be OK.
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Post by jaspermcrundgren on Jul 24, 2007 22:11:27 GMT
Thanks so far padster. I keep asking "why did I do this?" Is there an answer to this type of thing? Then again, bike is 10 years old and I don't know how well it was maintained, so this is me sort of trying to look after it so I know it is fine. Oh well, 'til next time.
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Post by jaspermcrundgren on Jul 28, 2007 23:18:49 GMT
Took wheel to local-ish wee shop - the 'bigger' shop didn't want to look at rethreading as they were too busy(  ). Anyhow, mechanic suggested to helicoil four threads (obviously the two goods ones I got out were ok, but other two duff). Left wheel with him and he had job done next day - including fitting disc back on, all for £35quids. Happy with that but lesson learned!!! |
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Post by garethjv on Aug 7, 2007 15:39:53 GMT
Can I just add to this (for anyone else wanting to remove a brake disc) that a generous application of heat from a blow torch to each bolt before attempting to slacken them will make the job much easier!
If anyone's interested I found this out the hard way. The first time I removed a disc I didn't apply heat and like the OP I sheared off a head. I don' t think this would have been too bad if a mate of mine hadn't insisted on 'helping' me by using an Easyout to remove the remaining stud in the wheel. Needless to say it broke and made the job of extracting the stud+hardened steel Easyout significantly more difficult!
The second time I did apply heat before unscrewing the disc and had no problems whatsoever!
Gareth
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Post by amorti on Jan 25, 2008 22:28:07 GMT
Reason that heat will help is because chances are the disc is loctited in. You can soften the glue, for that is what it is, by using heat. That and try to use an allen key bit that fits well rather than a key. They slip, and also it can be awkward, so you end up twisting the key at an angle, rounding the head out.
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Post by biblebasher on Feb 16, 2008 17:58:15 GMT
if one of you boyz knacker your front wheel good n proper, i have a spare. not nice nick but threads are fine. (single disc)
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Post by m40man on Feb 16, 2008 19:05:51 GMT
Took my rear disc off today - No problems, thankfully. A good quality bit is an essential tool. A swift yank & each bolt loosened off. (All the allen keys I've ever bought have been rubbish by comparison).
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Post by volomoto on Apr 24, 2009 14:04:04 GMT
I've been through this exact same problem with my XJ600, and ended up drilling out and helicoiling two studs.
XJ600 brake disc studs have Hylomar Blue on them, which is a thread locking agent. Heating the stud helps to soften the Hylomar. Another good tip is to put an old allen bit in each screw and give them a good thwack with a hammer (not so hard as to damage the wheel though), which compresses the Hylomar in the treads and breaks the lock.
You should then be able to undo the studs relatively easily.
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Post by General Gman on Apr 24, 2009 20:15:00 GMT
Took my rear disc off today - No problems, thankfully. A good quality bit is an essential tool. A swift yank & each bolt loosened off. (All the allen keys I've ever bought have been rubbish by comparison). The reason all the hex keys you have bought have been rubbish... is because you bought rubbish hex keys  Spend good money on hex keys and you won't have a problem. I used to use T handle keys when I were a fitter, but I'm too tight to buy them for myself.I have a couple of sets of fairly expensive hex keys and never have a problem. |
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Post by darren on Apr 25, 2009 0:12:27 GMT
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Post by CD on Apr 25, 2009 13:21:31 GMT
Heat and good hex keys are the way to go. Even better they type that fit a socket handle, you can more easily shock them out. Solid hammer thumps directly on the ends of the bolts can help shock them loose.
I have just watched the suspension mechanic get the (broken) forked "foot" off my WP shock. It was solid even with some heat from a MAPP torch - still nothing. After a few minutes he re-warmed it and the foot almost fell off. The Loctite had softened and we had lift-off
Same with carb screws (OK perhaps not the heat on them !!!) But a brand new sharp Pozi scewdriver with firm but careful pressure and all but the most mangled crossheads will shift.
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). Anyhow, mechanic suggested to helicoil four threads (obviously the two goods ones I got out were ok, but other two duff). Left wheel with him and he had job done next day - including fitting disc back on, all for £35quids. Happy with that but lesson learned!!!
