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Post by malcky on Apr 9, 2007 8:29:58 GMT
hi folks, i am getting fed up waiting on the breather kit from yamaha, so just wondered who has actually done it and what it actually consists of so i might be able to get similar bits elsewhere to do the same thing.
cheers
the part number in question is: 90891-10113
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Post by Doofer on Apr 9, 2007 12:36:34 GMT
Malky,
If this is the breather kit to stop the puddles of oil appearing under your bike I think many of us have decided it isn't worth the bother.
A good clean out of the airbox and the 3 pipes attached to it seems to do the job, making sure that all pipes are reconnected correctly and with no pinches or kinks in the pipes.
Do take care to re-connect the pipe on the underside of the airbox to the rocker cover or it will pour oil all over the top of your engine, it is easier to attach it to the airbox first, refit the airbox, then reconnect to the rocker cover.
If you make this a service item, say once every 6-12 months it seems to keep the problem under control.
I've just done mine again as I was starting to get that oily drip again, its been about 12 months since I last took it all off and gave it a good clean but I do clear the pipe which goes from the top rear of the airbox to just above the clutch whenever I can access it (ie whenever I take the tank off for some reason).
Doof
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Post by iooi on Apr 9, 2007 13:18:47 GMT
Is this what the mod is ? Sort of like a inline tube in the drain pipe from the air box. Sorry for the poor pic, but bike is still hot from a run.
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Post by malcky on Apr 9, 2007 14:42:54 GMT
Just to clarify, in order to clear out all the breathers and the airbox am i right in saying the fuel tank has to come off?? If so this is something that i would not like to try myself as have never done this before and never seen it done either.
If however anyone that does these bits themselves that live near Fife or Edinburgh area then i would be happy to come to you to be shown how its done.
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Post by iooi on Apr 9, 2007 15:35:34 GMT
Just to clarify, in order to clear out all the breathers and the airbox am i right in saying the fuel tank has to come off?? If so this is something that i would not like to try myself as have never done this before and never seen it done either. . Removing tank is easy, 2 bolts. One at front and one at rear. Then you need to tackle fuel tap. Set to main position. Cross head screw driver up the hole and unscrew. Then remove fuel and vacume pipes from tap, a little petrol may come out so have a cloth handy to catch it. There is also a pipe of bottom of tank that needs removing, runs down next to the pipe that oil is leaking out of. Will lift straight of then. You will then see the air filter box. 4 screws hold this down.
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Post by Doofer on Apr 9, 2007 15:42:54 GMT
Malky,
I'd happily call round and help, but Fife is a bit far for me.
However if you make it to one of the club runs, its a pretty simple job (I appreciate that even the simplest of jobs can be intimidating if you are doing it for the first time and without someone to watch over you & say stop before anything goes wrong), so I'm sure we can supervise while you do it.
One of the closer members may be able to call round and help you out.
Doof
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m1key
CBT Hero
purple monster :D
Posts: 32
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Post by m1key on Apr 20, 2007 22:28:33 GMT
im in Falkirk mate, might drop you a line and we can do conversion to mine too as its leaking
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Post by Fender 54 on May 3, 2007 21:10:44 GMT
My 98 Divvy has an in line plastic valve type thing that has a ball bearing type thing inside, that is sealed in. I still had a little drip of oil after a time regardless of this. I took the tank off and cleaned the inside of the air box and also disconnected the rubber pipe and inline valve. I gave all components a good clean with `Gunk` and reassembled. Me being a typical bloke, I dismantled first and read the instructions second. When it came to put the inline plastic valve back there was no indication of which way around the valve should face and of course I had not made note of the way it had come off. It does matter to a degree, because once I had got used to the nasty taste of gunk.(Don`t worry I actually gave it a a good wash first) I blew down the valve. Apart from getting a note in D minor, I also discovered that it obviously was a valve to allow a `Sucking` and `Blowing` type of system from the air filter box, and in turn to allow any drip of oil to escape. I of course, did not know which way around it went. I thought oh well, 50% chance of getting it wrong. I have done 100 miles since this with no probs. I will of course keep an eye on it, because if it is on the wrong way the oil will not escape and build up. Watch this space.
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jon
Newbie
Posts: 8
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Post by jon on May 1, 2008 12:53:44 GMT
I have ordered the modification kit (£17)and will let you know how it goes. I do a short 3 mile journey to work every day, all year round and when it's cold and damp this problem is bad, dripping sludge wherever i park it. So for the sake of a few quid i figure it's worth a try.
Will let you know.
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Post by amorti on May 1, 2008 13:42:21 GMT
I bodged the kit up out of various spares. Ordered one valve cover bolt as they're a funny size, replaced the kinked main breather with garden hose as this is braided and shouldn't kink, removed the top breather all together (in line with USA bikes which don't appear to have the same problem) and blocked the T joint with a self-tapping screw. The kit has an elbow joint rather than that, but you can't see it anyway. So I did it for a £2 bolt, a screw out the shed and a snipped off bit of garden hose. It's a bit less than £17 and has 100% worked, the bike runs fine without the top breather tube and doesn't leak any more either. Why shouldn't it when the USA bike is fine without it, and there are certainly cold and wet parts of the USA just like the UK.
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