|
Post by alpaholic on Feb 21, 2007 1:25:16 GMT
Hi, as I'm sure you are all know that in the life of a Divvy (600) there comes a time when rust will become a problem to the exhaust. This time has arrived for mine. At the moment a coke can and jubilee clips are keeping the noise level down and giving the neighbours a longer sleep. I have just bought a second-hand 4 into 1 nexxus exhaust and would like to know if I need to adjust the carbs when fitting it and where is the best place to buy exhaust gaskets. Thanks in advance Ritchie. Accepted wisdom seems to be that you should balance the carbs, in practice it doesn't seem to matter (at least, when I did mine, they stayed in balance). Personally I wouldn't bother, but it's your call. Gaskets? Anywhere I would have thought. Not a pricey part - main dealer maybe. Bike bitz of Portsmouth or Fowlers will send them.
|
|
|
Post by jaspermcrundgren on Apr 9, 2007 22:22:50 GMT
Hi spelunker, and how did you get on removing the bolts at the cylinder head? I will be doing exact same but hex bolts rust are letting the allen keys have no contact due to wear. I am considering taking engine out so I can have a good dig in with wd40 and mole grips and mibbie a bent spoon and some blue tac. Cheers the noo
|
|
|
Post by m40man on Apr 10, 2007 6:40:45 GMT
You can help youjrself no end by using an 8mm hex socket instead of an allen key.
Using an extension, you can get to four of the allen heads no prob. For the other 4, which are too close to the frame to get a half-inch socket holder past it onto the hex socket, just insert the hex socket into the head (tap it home to make sure you get good entry/reach) then reach from the side with a good fitting 10mm spanned onto the end which normally goes into the socket extension. You can get good leverage this way.
When you reassemble, copper-grease the exhaust-stud threads so next time will be more straightforward.
Good luck.
|
|
|
Post by jaspermcrundgren on Apr 15, 2007 21:36:01 GMT
Thanks for advice - just wish previous owner had coppergreased the inside of the hex fittings on the bolts. Anway, I exhaust bandaged up the newly developing holes (had already plugged up bits since last October and has held til now) and have decided to take engine out when on holiday in not too distant distance. At least I'll get to know a wee bit more of the bike. Cheers the noo
|
|
|
Post by CD on Apr 17, 2007 13:32:00 GMT
Engine out! Expect the following: Scratched/chipped frame More bust bolts Bust back Expense, Pain
Surely you can get in there with something? How about grinding off an allen key and turning it with a suitable 6 point socket and an impact driver. But use lots of releasing oil on the threads every day for a week before trying any real force.
It would be easier to take off the forks to get better access before taking out the engine. While you are at it treat the forks to a flush-out and new oil.
|
|
|
Post by jaspermcrundgren on Apr 18, 2007 21:41:54 GMT
Hi Cd and ta much - its not so much as getting in there - no matter if I can or not, the hex just rotates as the inside of the flange bolts are corroded - so no connection to rotate whole bolt. However, I don't mind taking engine out as it will help build up on my limited knowledge and mechanical experience. Cheers the noo
|
|
|
Post by CD on Apr 18, 2007 22:18:28 GMT
Sounds like engine in or out it will need a deep nut welding onto the bolt head. I still think its worth trying with the engine in the frame. Dont forget to disconnect the battery.
It might also be worth trying a large stud extractor or grinding a larger size allen key into a gentle taper and bashing it in. It will probably have to be ground short - trial & error. But with an impact screwdriver it might work. Minimal cost so worth a try.
The last engine I took out of a bike was an MZ 250. That's a doddle as only held by swing arm pin and a top rubber mount, but it was a horrible job. A divvie 6 doesn't bear thinking about.
|
|
|
Post by jaspermcrundgren on Apr 20, 2007 23:20:45 GMT
Many thanx cd, I will work something out at some point and post it back on. I don't want to steal spelunker's thunder so I'll start an engine removal thread (mibbie!!??) at a later date or might even just throw in a thread about how I removed the exhausts with the greatest of ease (cd's advice included) and no hardship thrown in (lofl) - mibbie even removing them with the bent spoon and blue tac - how would that be for the title of a thread!? Anyway, ta for your persuasion coz its got me thinkin.
|
|
|
Post by jaspermcrundgren on Apr 20, 2007 23:23:55 GMT
Forgot to say that the last engine removal was me takin my cx engine out and lifting it into the boot of a Lada to take it to the bike shop. This was fine but some 6 months later I had one of those cricks in my back that came and went for years and years. Awffy annoying.
|
|
cuckoo69
Boy Racer
divvi900 owner
Posts: 113
|
Post by cuckoo69 on May 16, 2007 9:25:55 GMT
i ya just like 2 say when i changed my 600n exhaust 's old genuine yam 2in to1x2 for {4into1 nexus} i had no problems and the bike ran fine even better on exceleration
|
|
|
Post by HRHpenfold on May 16, 2007 17:35:21 GMT
you just heat the broken stud with a blowlamp, then a set of molegrips has the stud out, done it a few times to divies
|
|
|
Post by ateyercheese on May 30, 2007 16:19:15 GMT
I've got a Leo Vince end can on mine that came with a 2-1 connecting pipe and fits on the original hangers, its a 2-1 that attaches to the original stock downpipes and comes up on the right-hand side. Sounds ok, wasn't expensive (like the yammy stock, delkevic or nexxus replacements) and I fitted myself (with a little help). www.leovince.comChris.
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jun 21, 2007 18:27:48 GMT
Hi, Ateyercheese, Ive looked at www.leovince.com but cant find anything suitable. Can you give the full url of your pipes & exhaust can arrangement.
|
|
|
Post by ateyercheese on Jul 2, 2007 12:33:59 GMT
Hi Dave,
it is a Leo vince, SBK EVO II, E-approved, oval can[/url]
Strange how they no longer recognise the xj600 in their application list. I've got teh box in front of me here, it clearly says "leo vince SBK - Yamaha XJ600 S/N Diversion". I found it in an ebay shop, I'll try and remember who and let you know.
|
|
|
Post by milkybacon on Jul 3, 2007 15:02:54 GMT
wish id seen this earlier, just finished gettin my exhaust of and damn gettin in to the 8 bolts is a real pain (well 6 are easy but 2 arnt) managed it exactly as m40man said but only after losin my temper and usin some explicit language, can anyone suggest a good 4 into 2 setup?
|
|
|
Post by m40man on Jul 3, 2007 19:02:46 GMT
can anyone suggest a good 4 into 2 setup? Sounds like you need to hear from Jools ?? Where is she .
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on Jul 3, 2007 19:29:28 GMT
she's sat next to me being annoying. She had Jama originals fitted to her wee Helga - stainless downpipes same as original with chromed silencers.Look slightly better and sound much better than original.not loud, though and fully E-marked.All in was about £438. As for taking engines out.... I've removed the motor from a gixxer 750 twice, a VFR750 (that was fun...) and numerous two strokes. All nice and easy.The divvy motor's so simple it should only take an hour to get the bugger out (including removing fairings etc.)
|
|
jonsan
Scooter Rider
Posts: 70
|
Post by jonsan on Jul 3, 2007 22:50:49 GMT
Posted this a while ago on the old site I had to take the exhaust of my divvy to change the oil, 1 stripped and 2 snapped exhaust manifold studs meant the head had to come off. Even then, no amout of heat and mole grips etc would extract so they were carefully drilled out to 7mm then the remaining sliver removed by "re-tapping".....this reminds me.....now due for its next oil change!
|
|
|
Post by jaspermcrundgren on Jul 11, 2007 23:02:27 GMT
Many thanks to all suggestions for removing exhaust wot started with spelunkers thread way back then. Get your pipe and slippers now! My downpipes were shredded so I borrowed an angle grinder and cut them off anyway, today. I even managed to tidy them right up to their flange bits. Next part was pure luck - I found a hex bar - an 8 step up to 10mm - in my midden of a toolbox - this fitted perfect and let me turn freely with a socket with no pipes in the way. Lots of wd after each tiny squeak of movement. The first off was a hex 'nut ' with attached stud. Next off was six hex 'nuts' (studs still on cyl head) and last off was the one when I said earlier that the hex sockets were corroded - well it was just this one and I simply(aye aye) used gentle persuasion with mole grips and the 'nut' and stud came off. So in short I don't need to take engine out. Now ...... should I remove the six studs still on cyl head with all the fuss and use eight stainless steel versions to fit on my newer stainless steel exhaust? Well that's what I fancy doing next. Any suggestions? Ok to use bolts rather than studs n hex heads
|
|
|
Post by jaspermcrundgren on Aug 3, 2007 10:31:09 GMT
Ye cannae dae that! Bike shop in town said that they use flange nuts as you can then use a socket to take them off. Anyway, got two new studs and eight flange nuts. Got most of bike back together (after Hammeritey/ heatproof black enamel paint work) but will change fork oil and renew seals before I fit exhaust. Getting there!
|
|