Post by anon on Jan 31, 2007 20:39:19 GMT
From: del mar Sent: 24/03/2003
After success with Fork Seals I decided to give these a go. The chain and sprockets are not that difficult, well sort off.
Tips.
The sprockets come off easily enough;
Rear you need a 22mm socket for the wheel and 14mm for the nuts holding it on. I found that if you remove all the drive / cush bit (? - the bit with the sprocket on) and clamp it vertically in a workmate, this holds it sufficiently for you to get leverage on it to undo the bolts. You then just clean everything and bolt the new one back on.
Front;
You need a 30mm socket to get this off once you have bent back the lock washer, and again easy to put back on.
Chain;
Haynes offers "remove the swing arm". As I was not using the chain again and the new one needed to be connected, I opted for cutting the chain with a hacksaw. 10 - 15mins but it worked. Putting the chain back on was another matter completely. I failed at this stage and went to the locl shop. A rivetting tool was £50, or if I pushed the bike there £5 and he would do it. I beleive they did it as follows- Largish G-Clamp to push the face plate on and then using a hole punch and hammer hit the end of the pin to spread it. Instead of the G-Clamp, a small socket over the plate and pin, and then hitting it with a hammer should force the plate on, providing you can support the chain to allow you to hit it. Not as easy as I first thought, but would give it a go again.
Loobman;
The only way to get this to work is to read the instructions 100 times. You eventually work out what it is saying. You essentially have 2 bits the rear with brushes (zip ties) and the bottle and feed.
I placed my bottle on the RHS of the frame, the left has the fuel tap and carb heater wires in the way, routed the tube underneath the rear sub frame across to the left subframe/frame join, and then down onto the swing arm. This gives a slight slope and a little "trap" at the end. Getting the "Squeeze" right is difficult, I was very keen and kept squeezing, obvisouly nothing happens as it takes a while to reach the end, and then it floods out all over the place leaking onto the drive !!!!!!! We live and learn. I am now working on 1 squeeze just to fill the catch tube once, evey 50 or so miles.
The old chain lasted 14,000 and one "write-off" this new should, according to the website, last forever.
From: brassnobs Sent: 24/03/2003
Hi del mar, got my loobman last week so I`ve soon got the lovely job of putting it on I know what you mean about the instructions, I`ve just put a new chain and sprockets on so am leaving it for a couple of weeks as I think the original grease on the new chain is better. When that wears off a bit or it rains and washes it off I`ll attempt the loobfit, looks easy enough. (yeah right)
brassnobs
From: del mar Sent: 02/04/2003
Two weeks after fitting the Loobman I have still not mastered it.
At first I was very keen to keep squeezing, hence ended up with a filthy rear wheel and puddles whever I parked.
I have observed that a 17 mile ride to work is not long enough for the oil to drip down and be nicely dispersed onto the chain. Just as I park up it seems to flow out !!
I am now working on every 3rd day (90miles) giving half a catch tube full of oil, a good 10 mins before I leave the house. By the time I start off it is half way down the tube, so hopefully is dispersed into the chain within the 17 miles.
The chain still looks as if it will need some more adjustment this weekend, it is looking like more than 3 - 4cm's of play
? From: brassnobs Sent: 03/04/2003
Fitted my loobman today, have fitted it on the left hand side just above the rear footrest. It means there is only about 18" of tube. Will let you know how it works (when I finally get my clutch gasket from the dealers, ordered over a week ago!!) with only a short length of tube it should work within a couple of minutes, or not as the case might be
brassnobs
Well , done around a thousand miles with the loobman on, quick squeeze every 60-80miles, with a short tube the oil gets to the chain very quick, after a 20mile run the oils all gone, chain nicely oiled, no oil on the tyre and no drips when stopped. So what do I think of the loobman, I love it, works a treat and saves me buying all those expensive and dirty spray cans of chain lubricant. The small amount of oil that gets onto the rear wheel is only engine oil (10/40) so is easy to clean off. Seventeen quids well spent!!
brassnobs
From: Ando Sent: 8/19/2003
Meant to reply earlier but been a busy year!
I fitted my loobman to the back of the LHS foot rest, so only have a short tube. As soon as I had figured out how it was supposed to work I binned the instructions and fitted it as I saw best.
The coat hanger piece that holds it on, wow! According to the instructions I have it bent nothing like. Basically, I found, that as long as it was bent around to fit the swingarm and was securely fastened, no probs!
My journey to work is only 5.2 miles and I quickly gauged how much of a squeeze I needed to keep the chain 'loobed'. Recommend it? YES, definetely. 17 odd quid well spent.
Piece of cake to use and works a treat and only a fraction of the cost of a Scottoiler.
From: Nick_nnname Sent: 11/26/2003
Recently fitted a Loobman and started using it with cheap 20W50 engine oil. Found that it was doing a great job of lubricating the chain to sprocket contact area (plus the back tyre and mudguard!) but didn't seem to be getting the oil into the area between the main link pieces and the side connecting plates i.e. where the 'O' rings are, or in my case aren't as I currently running a cheap non 'O' ring chain. So I tried using chainsaw oil in the Loobman instead and this seems to work better. Being a bit thicker and stickier, it seems to be spreading all over the chain rather than flowing through it.
From: brassnobs Sent: 11/26/2003
Done 6000mls since putting on the loobman and have`nt had to adjust it once, great bit of kit!!
brassnobs