Post by anon on Jan 31, 2007 20:37:59 GMT
From: Nick_nnname Sent: 12/10/2003
Just joined. Thought I'd share the details of a problem that I had with my '95 600 Diversion shortly after I bought it in May 2002.
When trying to start from cold, the engine would spin about half a turn of the crank and then stop with a load "clonk". To get it to free, and then start OK, I would have to rock forwards and backwards while in gear. After much abortive fault finding over a number of weeks focusing on starter gears or a gearbox fault I eventually tracked the problem down to a failed rubber seal in the vacuum fuel tap which was allowing fuel to drip through, and a carb fault, presuamably a sticking float, that was let fuel trickle into one of the cylinders. The "clonk" was hydraulic locking of the cylinder which must have been part filled with petrol. Discovered the fault by reading of a similar problem on a KawasakiGPZ900 owners web site. Apparently its quite a regualar problem on these bikes, and has been known to result in a bent con-rod and a full engine re-build. Also resulted in petrol getting into the engine oil, which explained why level slowly rose out of the top of the level sight glass. Thankfully in my case no permanent damage seems to have been done and I've done a further 9000 trouble free miles since then.
From: x_AJ_x Sent: 12/10/2003
You know I wish you's been a member this spring when nobody here could explain this to me! Mine's now progressed from what you've reported to the starter clutch not engaging occasionally (rectified in the same manner - rocking the engine). It'd be nice not to worry about a full engine strip & rebuild.
I've already noted that the fuel tap isn't sealling correctly last time I removed the tank. I don't suppose you know the part number/cost of the rubber seal you had replaced?
Andy
Oh and welcome to the group!
From: Nick_nnname Sent: 13/10/2003
I initially thought the vacuum diaphragm must be leaking, Replacement parts don't seem to be available for this. However the solution turned out to be much simpler. Behind the plate on the front of the tap (secured by two screws) is a simple rubber washer with a series of holes in it. Depending on the orientation of the tap, the fuel (or reserve fuel) is passed via the vacuum tap to the engine. In the "prime" position fuel by-passes the vacuum tap. A small split in the washer between one of the vacuum feed holes and the prime feed hole meant fuel could always by-pass the vacuum tap so that even with the engine off and the vacuum tap closed it could still flow. To replace the offending washer takes about 2 minutes once you've drained the tank. Can't remember the part number, but as far as I can recall the rubber washer and 'O' sealing ring are the only replacement parts you can get for the fuel tap and they cost me a couple of quid from my local Yamaha dealer. I'd advise that you also change the engine oil as it's likely to be thinned down by the steady addition of unleaded.
From: GhostlyBlankStare Sent: 10/15/2003
OK, the 'O' ring is part 3AJ-24534-00 (67p plus VAT) and the 'valve' washer is part 3AJ-24523-00 (£1.20 plus VAT). I'll be fitting them once I've run another 60 miles and drained the tank (Friday night/Saturday morning). Hope that solves my problems.
Andy
From: GhostlyBlankStare Sent: 10/15/2003
Sometimes it's useful living 1 mile from a main Yamaha dealer. Especially when they had a speedo cable in stock on Saturday morning after mine went walkabout last Friday evening.
From: Biff Sent: 10/15/2003
Hi Andy,
' Sometimes it's useful living 1 mile from a main Yamaha dealer '
Now you wouldn't be talking about Doug Deardon's would you ??
I thought you said you wouldn't go near the place !!. haven't heard from you for ages, how you doing ??
How's the Suzuki coming along ??
Biff
From: GhostlyBlankStare Sent: 10/20/2003
Hideously amateur photo I know but attached shows the damaged washer (left) next to the new one (right). As these things are under an inch in diameter it's quite amazing that two small tracks on the old washer could cause so much grief.
Andy
From: Nick_nnname Sent: 11/14/2003
Andy
Looks just like the washer I changed. And the little beggar seems to be laughing about it - a few pence worth of washer with the potential to cause a terminal engine damage. Hope its cured the starting problem. Don't forget to change the oil as a precaution against petrol getting past the rings and thinning it.
Nick
From: GhostlyBlankStare Sent: 11/23/2003
Sadly the seizing engine had already done too much damage to the starter gear. It's now gone belly up and wont engage at all, PLUS when trying to bump start it I think I've bust part of the transmission because it's dragging the rear wheel even in neutral.
So....once I get brave enough to do it (and after I get my GS500 up and on the road for winter) there may well be a 'stripping the Divvy 600 engine' technical article appearing on this site. As my local Yamaha dealer have said the book lists it as an 11 hour job just to remove the engine and a basic strip for investigation I think I may well be doing it myself & saving £40/hr!
Andy