rear caliper seals on 92 600 divvy

[topchum]

Can anyone show the way to an un-enlightened one as to whether or not the rear caliper has to be split in order to replace the piston seals/dust seals? And also what size the bolts holding the pads in is, as I have tried down as far as 5mm, but still seems smaller?

Advice greatly appreciated

Regards

Andy

[m40man]

Well, I'm a little confused Andy - My rear pins (1997) are definately 5mm allens!

I've not split calipers specifically to replace seals - you should be able to manage fine. Though the last time I did some, the calipers were split anyway - I guess it makes getting the old ones out a bit easier.

Martin.

[topchum]

Cheers for that martin .. I think I'm losing the plot (age dont you know!!) In my cave I call my garage, this silly prat has been trying to use a spanner on them, no wonder I cant get a spanner to fit em'. But in my defence, there is crap in the holes, and it did look like a spanner jobby.
I shall give it a go at the weekend..

Thanks again

Andy

[CD]

I recently rebuilt my 97 D600 rear caliper. No need to split the caliper, but expect a £20 bill for 4 rubber rings. What a rip off.
Its worth using a large cyringe to collect the fluid as you bleed the caliper. M&P have them & also on fleabay.

[alpaholic]

topchum said:

Can anyone show the way to an un-enlightened one as to whether or not the rear caliper has to be split in order to replace the piston seals/dust seals?

There are no torque settings in the Haynes for the bolts that hold the rear caliper together so I guess you shouldn't split it.

However I found the I relucantly had to split mine for access when I did mine.

There's an o-ring in there that I didn't replace but you might want to if you go down the splitting route.

[CD]

You can get an aerobic sealer (loctite type stuff) for sealing the flanges. Its needed because any squeezed out excess wont set and clog your brake fluid drillings and pipes. Ordinary thread seal Loctite might do it and I'd certainly try on a back brake but never risk it on a front until proven to be ok.

[topchum]

Cheers All....
But I'm quite confused, as the bolts on my rear caliper require a spanner, as there is no holes for allen keys .. Is this right, or what size socket is it?

[alpaholic]

topchum said:

Cheers All....
But I'm quite confused, as the bolts on my rear caliper require a spanner, as there is no holes for allen keys .. Is this right, or what size socket is it?

There are two shiney threaded pins that have hex heads - they hold the pads in situ.

Item No 8 on this diagram: tinyurl.com/2ravyh

Apart from that it's all bolts IIRC.

Have you not got a Haynes? There's a pretty clear diagram.

[alpaholic]

topchum said:

And also what size the bolts holding the pads in is, as I have tried down as far as 5mm, but still seems smaller?

Something not right here. They're not bolts they have allen heads (see diagram above).

I wonder if it's the original calliper & pins? You need to get hold of a Haynes ASAP and have a good look at the diagram.

[CD]

Going from memory but I think the caliper halves are held by allen head bolts. The caliper is fastened to chassis with hex head bolts and the brake pad pins have hex heads.

If you haven't done this before, its unwise to start without a good instruction manual.

[topchum]

Cheers All
Back to the bat cave .. another look

[General Gman]

don't be worried about splitting the calipers.won't hurt a bit as long as you don't lose the O ring..... and pop the pistons out first as far as you can....