Fork thoughts

[cineman]

I've got a leaking fork seal on my 96' 900, lucky me. I'm going to have a bash ( probably literally) at replacing them and the fork bushes. Any tips for this job? I've searched the threads and it seems to be a bit of a pig!
Also what's the beef with progressive springs like Hagons, are they worth fitting or will the difference be negligible?

Any advice gratefully received

Cliff

[2old2boogie]

Yes progressive fork springs are certainly worth fitting. In fact if you intend replacing the seals, then it's an upgrade that will improve your bike's suspension.

How to replace the seals on the 900 is covered in Reapers indispensable Maintenance DVD for the 900. Click on What's New at the top.

[Deleted]

Can you fit the Hagon progressive springs to a 96 ? I thought they only fitted 97 onwards where you have the adjusters on the top of the forks.

can anyone comfirm.

Dunc

[jeepster1]

Bev M&P list part nos for both.

[CD]

I find a bid wide screwdriver is ideal for spreading the fork yokes/triple-clamps so the legs drop out easily. Take the bolts right out and carefully tap the screwdrivers into the slot. Proper taper fox wedges would be better, but they dont need to be spread very far to release the forks.

Its also best top look out for corrosion on the fork legs area between the clamps. Any hidden rusty lumps can jam the leg in the bottom yoke.

If you are stripping the fork internals (makes sense if taking them off the bike), loosen the bottom bolts after taking out the wheel but before you slacken the triple-clamps. I've not yet done a divvie fork, but on every other bike I've done, these screws can be a pain to undo with the forks off the bike.

When cleaning out the cr*p from inside the fork leg, I wedge a Jcloth into a a slot cut in the end of the length of wooden dowling. This gets right down to the bottom, leaves no lint and can't scratch the metal.

[General Gman]

Do one fork at a time..... try not to mix the bits up between them....

[Tigger]

Hi Bev
I fitted them to my 'M' reg 900 and there were no adjusters on those forks. I found a great improvement (especially as I'm in the heavyweight category ) to handling and ride. Well worth the money. In fact I've just done the same job on my Fazer but I've used K-Tech springs this time. www.k-tech.uk.com/rr_springs.php Give them a bell with a few details about your riding style, weight etc and they'll sort you out. Very good people.

Matt

[cineman]

Thanks for your advice all. I got a quote today from my local bike shop and they say bushes, seals and dust covers come to around £70. If I remove the legs and take them in they quote £125 oil, parts and labour.
I'm going to see if I can save the £50 odd difference and attempt them myself, if it all goes the way of the pear I'll take them in.
Chirodave thanks for your tips on removing legs from the triple clamps. As far as I can see the whole operation depends on the successful slackening of the bottom damper unit bolts. I'll deffo attempt them before slackening the clamps.

cheers

Cliff

[CD]

Another thought when spreading the clamps (as I said only just enough to free the fork leg), insert the wedge/screwdriver vertically. Inserting orizontally might seem to be fine, but the tip of the wedge can hit the fork leg itself so be careful.

This should be obvious so forgive me... Whatever happens don't be tempted to try pipe pliers of any type on the fork legs. I've seen a number of bikes where some numpty has messed up otherwise perfectly good fork legs.