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Post by superzebraa on Jul 3, 2020 16:53:37 GMT
Hello all!
Bit of a what am i missing moment here.
Valve clearances all in spec, new shims in where reqd this morning, and gap rechecked after to make sure i counted the right amount of fingers and feet ( i'm ok up to 12, after that its shoes and socks off time and nobody wants that.....) so thats all good. Despite being a little overdue they werent too far out in general, except #2 intake was down to 0.06, rest were very close or in the case of two and three exhaust, were spot on still. Sparkers all a nice colour.
Cleaned out diaphram side of carbs a few weeks back, stuck 'em back on and it ran great, just a lot of vibration through the bars, pegs and seat, reached down for the frame rail and that was buzzing away too at all engine speeds, not just normal spot
So, as mentioned above valve clearances corrected, put back together and it fired up ok.
Gauges on for balancing, bench synced beforehand, all 4 carbs post tweaking sitting on my gauges with a vacumn between 10 and 20, all very similar readings when finished.
Took gauges off fittings, and original screws re fitted, refitted tank, fettled with something else for a bit..... and now just spins but doesn't catch. Tank back off and checked, fuel at pump, fuel at pipe for feeding carbs, fairy liquid bottle test tank reconnected (vac for tank on #1 blanked off) and same, cranks but wont fire. Tank is back on, all connected fine but wont fire, choke, no choke, left to stand for a couple of hours in case of flooding, and still nothing.
Any thoughts on what i may have missed? Going to leave overnight and have a play again tomorrow.
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Post by spike240 on Jul 3, 2020 20:18:07 GMT
Kill switch isn't on - is it?
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Post by superzebraa on Jul 3, 2020 20:42:25 GMT
Hi,
Nope, kill switch is good, wouldn't spin on the starter if if was on but can also hear the relay switching when it flicked on and off, checked side stand, neutral and clutch switch combo too, all good.
Was running earlier while i balanced carbs, stopped it to put back together and has refuwed to start since.
Battery was good, also booster battery used for a further attempt much later, left if a few more hours in case was flooded, pretty certain its fuelling, and prob to do with me messing with carb flows.
Though thinking about it, #4 was a bit of a pig to tie down, some of that is i forgot which way i was turning the screw and took it a bit off course.
Going to pull carbs back off tomorrow and bench sync them again, see where that gets me.
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Post by soggybiker on Jul 4, 2020 11:57:10 GMT
What's the Bike? If it's a 600 divvie you will find a load of electrical components at the apex of the back wheel on the right-hand side. One of these has your kill switch logic system and of course water gets thrown in and rots the copper cores out. Look for a big block and connector with lots of wires and check them for corrosion. Then if necessary remove them and drive a pin in and using a DVM check you have a circuit between the pin and terminal. All three of my 600's gave me grief with this and wound up with wires from a scrap loom solder sleeved into the original.
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Post by m40man on Jul 4, 2020 13:25:29 GMT
Maybe try to forget all you've done over the last 24 hours & instead approach this nonstarting as if totally unrelated - so check the basics of spark & fuel, to see which might be absent. Then follow whichever is the symptom, because it's quite possible that in doing the carbs you might have disturbed something else.
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Post by superzebraa on Jul 4, 2020 17:16:37 GMT
Right, no spark, think it may be down to sensor on crank, or eek, cdi unit, just waiting for charged battery before i can continue. Plenty of fuel though, petcock releases with vac from cranking, and fuel is at the carbs inlet and when you crank it long enough you can start to smell it, plugs came out and wet after that.
Soggybiker, yep, nice a cruddy up there, already checked along there but will revisit if needed, I remember the green and red starter signal wire and how they rot inside the plug but dont drop out so are only found when clutching at straws which i find comes after the hair is all pulled out and you start tugging on cables in desperation. I managed to solder mine back into the plug, then added a liberal coating of holts damp start stuff, the stuff that leaves a film behind, used to use it in the sub basements of the power stations I used to visit to stop the steam leaks wetting all my junction boxes through. I remember us as a group pointed a few people towards that many years ago in the old 'clubhouse'. That and the 4th gear going awol issue.
M40 man, hello again , nice to see yours amongst other recognisable names are still on here. yes too, re checked my work for errors, including bench syncing the carbs again, and have moved onto other things, as noted above, suspect the controls side of things, no spark on plugs 1 or 2, so the chances of two coils going off the deep end simltaniously are slim so am working back through stuff bit by bit, since moving house cannot find my first big book of divy-vine intervention so waiting for a pre greasy thumbed one to arrive from ebay. Crank sensor has no resistance, nothing i can see with my multi meter, do you know off hand if it magnetic or hall effect, thought hall effect needs power too of which crank sensor has omly two wires to it, been a long time since messed with all that.
Bouncing ideas around i find helps, this was always a good collective knowledge site, hence my popping back in now i have dug the old girl back out from behind the shed.
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Post by superzebraa on Jul 5, 2020 15:39:44 GMT
Welcome to superzebraa's sunday chop shop!
Todays episode is brought to you with tips on soldering, the use of heat shrink tubing,
And hopefully how not to crimp the crank sensor wires in the sprocket cover.....
Nice and tight so the electriccary couldnt get through.
Sensor should read around 0.4K Ohms if anyones interested,
And it runs.
Just need to go and try it out 😁
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Post by m40man on Jul 5, 2020 16:01:53 GMT
And it runs. Just need to go and try it out 😁 Nice! My own bike issues are also sometimes self-inflicted 😀! |
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Post by soggybiker on Jul 5, 2020 19:14:09 GMT
glad you got there in the end.
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Post by El Fuego on Jul 6, 2020 16:17:17 GMT
And it runs. Just need to go and try it out 😁 Nice! My own bike issues are also sometimes self-inflicted 😀! Sometimes?  |
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Post by superzebraa on Jul 6, 2020 21:17:34 GMT
One of those just a quick job scenarios where moments later it all goes a bit pear shaped. Glad I'm not alone with this particular skill set 😁
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Post by superzebraa on Jul 6, 2020 21:24:04 GMT
Tried it out, running very well, still has a slight falter at around 5.5k rpm whe you open the tap but much improved over how it was, and vibrations are way less, the mirrors are cheap aftermaket ones to replace the end falling of one of the originals, which promptly got run over by the car following, always though they were awful as the rattled so much you couldn't see much in them, turns out it wasn't all down to the mirrors....
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Post by m40man on Jul 7, 2020 9:45:47 GMT
... still has a slight falter at around 5.5k rpm whe you open the tap .... That’s just as the main jets will be taking over, so if you strip them again, that’s the ones to focus on, for a closer inspection/clean. |
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