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Post by chris900divvy on Dec 24, 2015 16:07:46 GMT
Looks like my switch or its wiring has packed in, just wondering if anyone has one available? Mine's a 1996 bike don't know if there are any differences between years. Cheers,
Chris
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Post by brianpb on Dec 25, 2015 8:33:44 GMT
Yes, Yamaha changed the switchgear on that side around 1996, I think the easy way to tell the difference is by where your choke control is. On a little bracket with a 'traditional' choke pull = earlier type. A slider as part of the switchgear = later type. The golden rule for any fault diagnosis is 'PROVE THE FAULT' if you cannot do that you can't even begin to fix it. It is what makes intermittent faults so 'interesting'. The first thing to do is check all the connectors from the switch for corrosion etc then disconnect the connector blocks and put a continuity tester across all the different switch circuits. That will tell you if any of the switches are faulty. Good luck  |
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Post by bluevinny on Dec 25, 2015 11:56:26 GMT
The other difference is that post 1996/1997 bikes came with the red hazard warning switch built into the LHS handlebar switch.
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Post by chris900divvy on Dec 26, 2015 9:21:48 GMT
The other difference is that post 1996/1997 bikes came with the red hazard warning switch built into the LHS handlebar switch. I presume the later switches won't fit the connector blocks and work with the wiring on earlier bikes then? |
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Post by m40man on Dec 26, 2015 13:43:59 GMT
The other difference is that post 1996/1997 bikes came with the red hazard warning switch built into the LHS handlebar switch. I presume the later switches won't fit the connector blocks and work with the wiring on earlier bikes then? I think not. One or two about on Ebay, but of course it might not be the switchgear itself. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-XJ900S-Diversion-Left-Hand-Switch-Gear-/391342979437?hash=item5b1ddbf96d:g:VsQAAOSw3KFWcAXr.... & whilst probably good, you don't really know with secondhand. At that price, prob worth a punt though, for the convenience of just swapping-out. |
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Post by chris900divvy on Dec 26, 2015 14:36:17 GMT
I presume the later switches won't fit the connector blocks and work with the wiring on earlier bikes then? I think not. One or two about on Ebay, but of course it might not be the switchgear itself. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-XJ900S-Diversion-Left-Hand-Switch-Gear-/391342979437?hash=item5b1ddbf96d:g:VsQAAOSw3KFWcAXr.... & whilst probably good, you don't really know with secondhand. At that price, prob worth a punt though, for the convenience of just swapping-out. Thanks, think I'll get the multimeter out and get the switch off at some point to test. It was working intermittently really rather than just not at all, I think I might have snagged the wires a bit after relocating my snail horn so maybe I could just solder in some new ones on to the switch if that's all it is - could probably do with lengthening the wires a bit anyway to be fair. There seem to be several different switches on Ebay and they all appear different to mine! Surprised there was so much difference between model years. |
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Post by brianpb on Dec 26, 2015 20:31:22 GMT
From memory there is nothing special about the switches, they are all simple switches so you should be able to test continuity easily, even if you don't have a circuit diagram. Find the earth wire (Black I think but if not someone will correct me) then testing for continuity between that and the other colours by operating the switches one at a time and seeing when you have continuity. Just write down the colour that corresponds to the particular switch each time you find one that works thereby eliminating them one by one. Good luck |
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Post by chris900divvy on Dec 27, 2015 11:57:53 GMT
From memory there is nothing special about the switches, they are all simple switches so you should be able to test continuity easily, even if you don't have a circuit diagram. Find the earth wire (Black I think but if not someone will correct me) then testing for continuity between that and the other colours by operating the switches one at a time and seeing when you have continuity. Just write down the colour that corresponds to the particular switch each time you find one that works thereby eliminating them one by one. Good luck Thanks, its only the horn which isn't working so shouldn't be too hard to get to the bottom of the wiring from that. I hope its just the wires, will get the switchgear off soon and take a closer look. |
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Post by teejayexc on Dec 27, 2015 15:27:09 GMT
From memory there is nothing special about the switches, they are all simple switches so you should be able to test continuity easily, even if you don't have a circuit diagram. Find the earth wire (Black I think but if not someone will correct me) then testing for continuity between that and the other colours by operating the switches one at a time and seeing when you have continuity. Just write down the colour that corresponds to the particular switch each time you find one that works thereby eliminating them one by one. Good luck Thanks, its only the horn which isn't working so shouldn't be too hard to get to the bottom of the wiring from that. I hope its just the wires, will get the switchgear off soon and take a closer look. You have checked the horn"s ok I presume ?  |
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Post by chris900divvy on Dec 27, 2015 16:10:35 GMT
Yes I tried two other horns, one of them also new. Same results on both, had thought it was just the horn that was iffy but it doesn't seem to be.
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Post by mlbv on Dec 28, 2015 6:40:21 GMT
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Post by chris900divvy on Dec 28, 2015 20:52:13 GMT
Well I took the handlebar switch off today, took it in doors and tested things. The horn switch seemed to work fine, good continuity at the terminals exactly the same result as the other switches which I know to be working fine. I checked the wires from the horn switch to connector block (brown neg in connector block) and the black/white wire that runs to the horn and no continuity...Turns out the male connector inside the block was so corroded away it came off when I tried to clean it up so looks like that was the problem rather than the switch itself - continuity was fine measured across the bare wires after with horn pressed on. I've got some screw to fit connector blocks from Maplin I've been using when this has happened with some of the corroded old blocks, wondering if anyone could recommend an alternative set of connector blocks that could be fitted? Don't have any experience of trying to renew corroded old blocks and am not really an electrical wizard, the screw to fit connectors have worked fine so far in various places where the originals have corroded away but obviously aren't as neat as the original push to connect ones.
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