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wiring
Aug 11, 2015 13:55:55 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 11, 2015 13:55:55 GMT
hi all new member here, I have been rebuilding a xj900s diversion, but have run into a problem, wiring loom in position and ignition side in situ and left side switch unit in situ, does anyone have any pictures of the connectors in position connected to the correct plugs as I seem to have a difference (as you may tell electrics not my strong point) unless some near the Lincolnshire area can pop across and help me in my dilemma, my health has not been to great at the moment so tolerance level waning lol please help some one
regards steve
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Post by brianpb on Aug 12, 2015 20:22:10 GMT
Bits of Lincs are near me (I live 19 miles east of Kings Lynn) where exactly are you?
Could possibly ride my 900 to you if not too far and electrics is what I did before I retired.
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wiring
Aug 14, 2015 20:12:04 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 14, 2015 20:12:04 GMT
Hi I live in Grimsby and wow that would be very much appreciated don't know wether it's what I've done or different connections, I can't afford a lot but can have tea/coffee on tap followed by bacon butties, I would be eternally grateful for the help kindest regards steve
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wiring
Aug 14, 2015 20:14:41 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 14, 2015 20:14:41 GMT
Bits of Lincs are near me (I live 19 miles east of Kings Lynn) where exactly are you? Could possibly ride my 900 to you if not too far and electrics is what I did before I retired. Live in Grimsby n/e lincs have posted reply, I am at last resort with it but can't afford to send it in garage to sort, please read my reply below kindest regards steve
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wiring
Aug 14, 2015 22:53:23 GMT
Post by brianpb on Aug 14, 2015 22:53:23 GMT
According to sat nav Grimsby is about 70 miles away, let me see what I am doing over the next weekend or two and if I can get up to you.
I assume you have a workshop manual wit hiring diagrams?
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wiring
Aug 15, 2015 9:45:33 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 15, 2015 9:45:33 GMT
According to sat nav Grimsby is about 70 miles away, let me see what I am doing over the next weekend or two and if I can get up to you. I assume you have a workshop manual wit hiring diagrams? I do have wiring diagram and workshop manual and wow that's a distance, if you are sure about travelling that I would be eternally grateful, I posted the picture in case anyone recognised the connectors and knew were they were to so didn't need to cause any inconvenience to anyone. once again I am grateful for you help regards Steve ps if you are coming across to me just let me know so can make sure am in, it would probably take you no more than an hour to tell me der it's that lol.
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wiring
Aug 15, 2015 21:28:17 GMT
Post by bluevinny on Aug 15, 2015 21:28:17 GMT
Some pictures of the loom connectors under the fuel tank on my 1999 bike to help you. Just before lifting off the airbox: Airbox lifted. The two red connectors are linked to the ignition switch: Hope this helps. Good luck.
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wiring
Aug 16, 2015 18:01:02 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 16, 2015 18:01:02 GMT
Yea helped show that the loom I got has the right connectors and the left switch gear is different, but still have issue with power at connections. Thanks for the help it was great full regards Steve
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wiring
Aug 16, 2015 22:53:26 GMT
Post by brianpb on Aug 16, 2015 22:53:26 GMT
What year is your bike?
About 96/97 Yamaha changed the left hand controls a bit by putting the choke on the bars rather than on a separate bracket, I don't think they changed the wiring though, although if could be wrong.
Yamaha are no different from any other car or bike manufacturer in that they vary the size and types of connectors when they are in the same area, this prevents people from interconnecting different circuits. So if two connectors fit together it is a very safe bet that they are correctly connected.
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wiring
Aug 17, 2015 7:08:50 GMT
Post by m40man on Aug 17, 2015 7:08:50 GMT
Also later models have a hazard lights button, earlier ones not!
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wiring
Aug 17, 2015 11:06:02 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 17, 2015 11:06:02 GMT
The bike is on a t Reg 98 I think with a sonar engine as original had done 93000 on the odometer, and was shot. think some one has been playing on the switches and the bars and switches are of a sonar bike on 96 plate with no choke on switch, ? so you can see the dilemma regards Steve
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wiring
Aug 17, 2015 11:10:24 GMT
Post by m40man on Aug 17, 2015 11:10:24 GMT
"sonar" means "donor" ??
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wiring
Aug 17, 2015 12:21:28 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 17, 2015 12:21:28 GMT
Yea sorry donor lol typo error would a 2000 switch fit to it
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wiring
Aug 17, 2015 15:24:31 GMT
Post by bluevinny on Aug 17, 2015 15:24:31 GMT
would a 2000 switch fit to it Yes the 2000 switch will fit as I believe Yamaha didn't change the bike spec between the 1996/1997 changeover and stopping production in 2003. The switch should hopefully solve your power at connections problem.
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wiring
Aug 17, 2015 15:38:23 GMT
Post by bluevinny on Aug 17, 2015 15:38:23 GMT
You may need a choke cable to go with the proper LHS handlebar switch. If you have problems finding a 900 divvie choke cable, the one from the Thundercat 600 will fit.
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wiring
Aug 17, 2015 18:22:35 GMT
Post by brianpb on Aug 17, 2015 18:22:35 GMT
Also later models have a hazard lights button, earlier ones not! Ah yes I forgot about the hazard flashers, of course those of us who ride earlier divvys are all well ard bikers with no need for such mollycoddling. I think you have now identified your problem, get the later left hand switchgear and you will almost certainly find that all the connectors match up. The alternative is to start chopping wires and adding connectors to interconnect the two different wirings, possible but probably a right royal PITA unless you know what you are doing.
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wiring
Aug 17, 2015 20:27:52 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 17, 2015 20:27:52 GMT
Got a new switch gear coming hopefully that will sort things, if not will be back on here in floods of tears whaling pleading for help again lol, thank you all for all the help Regards Steve
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wiring
Aug 22, 2015 16:43:31 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 22, 2015 16:43:31 GMT
Well new switch fitted and connected battery and nothing I totally give up, so here I am in floods of tears and steam coming out my ears, thinking should just sell up and become a monk less hassle Regards Steve
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wiring
Aug 23, 2015 8:22:47 GMT
Post by bluevinny on Aug 23, 2015 8:22:47 GMT
Well new switch fitted and connected battery and nothing When you state nothing, what are the symptoms? Does the clock work? Headlamps working?
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wiring
Aug 23, 2015 11:03:46 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 23, 2015 11:03:46 GMT
Clock works horn works but no lights or indicators and no ignition side either regards Steve
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wiring
Aug 23, 2015 13:44:20 GMT
Post by GAv on Aug 23, 2015 13:44:20 GMT
Not just a blown line fuse?
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wiring
Aug 23, 2015 21:57:46 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 23, 2015 21:57:46 GMT
Don't know going to look at all connections and clean all with electric contact cleaner, see if that sorts it and change all fuses, this will be when am back from work, if that don't do it am stumped and would be great full for any help Regards Steve
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wiring
Aug 24, 2015 9:08:19 GMT
Post by bluevinny on Aug 24, 2015 9:08:19 GMT
Power to the clock comes direct from the battery via the Clock fuse. ... horn works but no lights or indicators and no ignition side either Have you checked the fuses are ok for the Headlamp and Ignition circuits in the fusebox? The Haynes manual shows the Signal, Headlamp and Ignition circuits become live only when the ignition switch is turned on. The Signal circuit provides power to the horn. As this is working, this implies the ignition switch is not at fault. The Signal circuit also feeds the hazard relay, indicator relay, the LHS handlebar switch and the indicators in that order. These relays are located under the LHS side cover under the saddle. This suggests a fault within this circuit as only a part of it is working. The Signal and Headlamp circuits pass through one or more of the loom connections under the tank. I'd therefore check the state of the cables within these connections under the tank (from both handlebar switches and the ignition switch) if the fuses are ok.
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wiring
Aug 30, 2015 18:34:02 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Aug 30, 2015 18:34:02 GMT
Well checked fuses and there all ok, also checked wires, seem ok, I am well stumped now, getting time to bury it, really need to get this sorted this year, anyone down this way would be willing to help me out, someone that knows the electrics would like I said have this sorted in a jiff, I would send it in to get sorted but cannot afford the massive bill and don't think the garage would accept bacon butties and tea or coffee as helping payment. I am,at dn345se area and am in this coming weekend and mon Tuesday next week Regards a destitute xj900s owner Steve
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Post by m40man on Aug 30, 2015 19:55:44 GMT
I feel your pain . You're 180 miles away from me, so I'm afraid I won't be popping along for veggie bacon butties & tea . Hope you stick with it.
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wiring
Aug 31, 2015 12:19:01 GMT
Post by bev on Aug 31, 2015 12:19:01 GMT
Well I'm 350 miles away so not able to pop in for a look. However, start from the beginning. What do you have and what don't you have. Electric wise. Start at the battery Good connections ? Good Battery ? Good earth ? ( I assume you have a small meter to check these things) it's a bit difficult to fix it without one. Right if all this is OK then check you have voltage going to your ignition swith. yes ? switch on ignition what do you have ? panel lights ? Electrics, is easiest fixed by working your way methodically through the problem. Take a deep breath and start looking. It's not as complicated as it seems.
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wiring
Sept 4, 2015 22:36:08 GMT
Post by bluevinny on Sept 4, 2015 22:36:08 GMT
anyone down this way would be willing to help me out How have you got on?
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wiring
Sept 6, 2015 18:27:33 GMT
Post by timebandit50 on Sept 6, 2015 18:27:33 GMT
Well had power to starter relay and cleaned starter relay and then pressed start button and had a click or two then twiddled the wire and the starter turned, and then engine turned slow, (used an old car battery as awaiting a new one) but the engine turned, yehhh, now the bad news when this happened there was brown coloured water dripping from the exhaust collector pipe (as don't have back box connected) don't know wether this was just a collection of condensation or a more sinister problem, When turned it over by hand no more water came out so it never ends.
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wiring
Sept 7, 2015 16:41:44 GMT
Post by bluevinny on Sept 7, 2015 16:41:44 GMT
Well had power to starter relay and cleaned starter relay and then pressed start button and had a click or two then twiddled the wire and the starter turned, and then engine turned slow, (used an old car battery as awaiting a new one) but the engine turned, yehhh, now the bad news when this happened there was brown coloured water dripping from the exhaust collector pipe (as don't have back box connected) don't know wether this was just a collection of condensation or a more sinister problem, When turned it over by hand no more water came out so it never ends. That's good news you're making progress resolving your electrical problem. I would have thought the dripping water from the exhaust was down to condensation inside the pipework - sometimes a small amount of water drips from my exhaust silencer-to-collector joint when the engine is briefly run. If in doubt, remove all the spark plugs, then turn the engine over on the starter to expel any possible liquid inside the cylinders.
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