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Post by brianpb on May 17, 2015 9:30:10 GMT
Being a newbie here I only found out yesterday that my non-working fuel gauge was a very common fault.
As I had the fairing off already (to replace the oil cooler because of a hairline crack across the top of the union, thanks to a prat mechanic in Bedford who obviously doesn't understand that something is going to give if you over tighten a steel banjo bolt into an ally thread!!) I put my meter across the circuit and got 196 k ohms, so the sender is knackered.
Now I understand that many say don't bother to fix it cos the gauge is crap anyway but I like things to work so here are my questions.
1. If I try to find a used unit how do I know if it will be the newer part, part number 4KM-85752-01 which I assume was an upgrade on the previous, when was the changeover year?
2. Anyone know the price of the part new from Yamaha and if it is available cheaper anywhere else?
Regards
Brian
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Post by m40man on May 17, 2015 9:54:04 GMT
Welcome, Brian. You might want to consider repair rather than replacement, as I'm sure new will be pricey: www.home.zonnet.nl/mdeventer/But production year's model numbers are so: 1994/5 4KM1 1996 4KM3 1997 4KM5 1998/9 4KM7 2000 4KM9 2001 4KMB - per the Haynes manual. So check your model code on the label on the steering head plate if you want to go down the 'new' road. I don't know of other bikes which used the same sender. |
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Post by brianpb on May 17, 2015 10:29:34 GMT
Thanks for that but what year did the sender part number change from 4KM-85752-00 to 4KM-85752-01, assuming Yamaha changed it to rectify the problems associated with the original part?
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Post by teejayexc on May 17, 2015 19:11:48 GMT
Being a newbie here I only found out yesterday that my non-working fuel gauge was a very common fault. As I had the fairing off already ( to replace the oil cooler because of a hairline crack across the top of the union, thanks to a prat mechanic in Bedford who obviously doesn't understand that something is going to give if you over tighten a steel banjo bolt into an ally thread!!) I put my meter across the circuit and got 196 k ohms, so the sender is knackered. Now I understand that many say don't bother to fix it cos the gauge is crap anyway but I like things to work so here are my questions. 1. If I try to find a used unit how do I know if it will be the newer part, part number 4KM-85752-01 which I assume was an upgrade on the previous, when was the changeover year? 2. Anyone know the price of the part new from Yamaha and if it is available cheaper anywhere else? Regards Brian 1) newer part is the same crap spec, so nothing gained there and 2) price was about £120 new from Yamaha ! So... Either go down the repair road or make do with the warning light. |
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Post by brianpb on May 17, 2015 19:38:32 GMT
Thanks for that I think I will go for the repair route. So brass pipe and I assume a new gasket will be searched for/ordered tomorrow.
In the meantime the light will have to do, I just hope the bulb doesn't blow!
Regards
Brian
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Post by CD on May 17, 2015 21:26:20 GMT
I did the brass tube fix. The pivot hole is drilled to suit the tube OD. The tube is cut & epoxied to the pivot part of the float arm. The original spring clip washer holds it all together. Before you start, make sure both feeler contacts are ok. If they are damaged the gauge will never work. The oil cooler might have been damaged by incompetence. But more likely it just cracked as the banjo bolts were loosened. I fitted an entirely new cooler below the bottom fork yoke in front of the frame. The cooler is a transmission cooler by PWR. Use silicone hose bends and 10mm copper to connect the cooler barb pipes to the oil filter stub pipes. Off its from the bends connect the pipe bottom ends. See this diversionclub.proboards.com/thread/21117/oil-cooler-pipesThe 130mm PWR cooler has a similar finned area to the standard cooler. The next taller cooler will fit but it's tight and the front mudguard is likely to hit the cooler on full bump. Another note. Use hose worm clips one size too small. Back them right out to fit over the hose ends and tighten normally. Clips that look correct will go D shape before they are tight enough. Suzuki Bandit oil cooler is a similar size to the taller PWR but it's too tall, costs more money and has strange pipe connections. |
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Post by mickandrita on May 18, 2015 12:17:13 GMT
I would like to point out to people who know me that the said 'prat' mechanic in Bedford was not me !,also while on the subject I have experienced persistent leaks from the banjo's to the top of the cooler even with new genuine Yamaha copper washers and I solved it by using a red fibre washer on the bottom of the banjo the side that go to the cooler what seems to happen is they get over tightened over the years and distort the ally 'blocks 'on top of the cooler ant the copper washer is to hard to seat itself but the fibre washer can compress to seal it but the most essential point it to use a spanner to hold the blocks on the top of the cooler when you undo the banjo's so that the cooler blocks can't twist and crack
Mick
A mechanic in Bedford
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Post by brianpb on May 18, 2015 20:02:00 GMT
The new cooler was fitted by me using the correct copper washers, tightened to the correct torque rather than the 'keep tightening until your elbow cracks' method. When I released the banjo bolts on the old cooler they were VERY tight, I really had to put my weight on the ratchet to shift them. I am sure it wasn't you and I apologise to any Bedford bike mechanic who feels slighted.  |
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Post by satnav on May 20, 2015 14:27:17 GMT
Just use the light and mileage trip.
When I get close to 175 miles I know that the light will be coming on soon. Just as good as any fuel gauge.
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Post by CD on May 22, 2015 23:56:41 GMT
My oil cooler stub pipes cracked you could see the line of it when the banjo bolt was pulled up.
I had already tried Dowty washers to no effect before I saw the cracks.
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Post by brianpb on May 24, 2015 23:04:23 GMT
Just use the light and mileage trip. When I get close to 175 miles I know that the light will be coming on soon. Just as good as any fuel gauge. You are obviously one of those economy gurus, my light came on at only 168 miles! But your method works well |
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Post by satnav on May 24, 2015 23:28:04 GMT
Just use the light and mileage trip. When I get close to 175 miles I know that the light will be coming on soon. Just as good as any fuel gauge. You are obviously one of those economy gurus, my light came on at only 168 miles! But out your method works well Not really. I use mine every day to get me to work. This is a short trip on urban roads, a 14 mile blat up the A19, and another short stretch on the urban stuff. |
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