900 divi step by step fork seal replacment

[steveo]

Guys I have tried searching but carn,t find step by step guide , and I don't have manual .
anybody post a guide ? as I need to do them in the asap! thanks steve .

[chris900divvy]

I suppose it depends on how you want to go about it. Its not impossible to lever out the old seals with a screwdriver if you knock it through the rubber.
I've just done mine the 'proper way' with new bushes though so if you want to strip the whole lot it takes a bit more doing.
The thing you may well need before you do it is an m18 threaded bar around a couple of foot long and four m18 27mm across flats nut. I got mine here - link
You will also need either a long reach 8mm allen key to undo the bottom bolt in the fork slider or one of these link
Its not impossible to get the forks apart without the threaded bar makeshift tool but I found it far easier especially when it came to tightening up again afterwards so would recommend getting the bits together first.
1)Start by slackening off the fork caps while the forks are still on the bike, but make sure you have the top yoke pinch bolts loose as this will lock the caps in situ and they're easy to bugger up (soft metal.)
2)After thats done you can take the forks out and drain the oil.
3)Take out the spacers washers and springs from the top of the forks along with the loose caps and drain the oil.
4)Put the threaded bar into the forks with nuts on each end (use two nuts and lock one against the other) and insert your allen key or socket into the bottom of the slider and unfasten the damper rod bolt.
5)Pull the forks apart after removing the bolt, the upper bush will get knocked out as you do this and the seals will be left on the fork tube so you can withdraw them.
By far the hardest bit is getting the top bush back into place. If you haven't got a fork seal fitting tool two bits of waste pipe from B&Q wrapped over with a U bolt clamp tightly can be attached to the tube and used to hammer the bush and then the seal into place, I used loads of grease to ease it in but it was difficult to drive it in far enough to get the fork seal in after so make sure its in all the way. If you look at Delboys garage on youtube there's a good tutorial on there.
When its all back in place with new seals, damper rod retightened etc refill with fresh oil then reinstall springs washer and spacer before you put the fork cap back in pushing down on the spring - I find its easiest to swivel the fork tube upward while putting your weight on the cap until it threads on.

Just a rough guide, have only stripped the forks once so was a learning curve for me too. Hope this helps.

[moo]

Good advice with the 27mm nuts! They will help you loads!

The first time i did mine, that was the one bit that i got stuck on for aaages! Tried loads of things to hold the nut in place! Eventually gave up and got a friend to weld a 27mm nut on the end of some old reinforcement rod!

I also use the pvc waste pipe and jubilee/u clamp method to refit them. Just make sure the pipe edge facing the seal is flat and even all the way round to equally apply the pressure

[kirriepete]

I've just done the seals on the Kwak Megabus without pulling the fork legs apart, wasn't needing to replace the bushes so why bother?

Leg off, spring out, oil (well, more like mayo than oil) drained, circlip removed and then small screwdriver (one of those wee electrical tester flatheads) poked through the old seal which then levers out nicely.

Clean the fork leg thoroughly as you're going to be pushing the new seal down it and you don't want to knacker it with bits of crap before it's had a chance to fulfill it's destiny.

Slide the new seal down (check it's the right way up!) then use the old seal on top to knock it into place - I've got an ancient flathead screwdriver with the tip ground flat that I use as a 'knocker inner'.

Once it's in square, pull the old seal out, pop in a new circlip, refill with clean oil, add springs, spacers washers etc., swear mightily as you try to get the cap to catch a thread against spring pressure, then it's Haynes time "refitting is the reverse of the disassembly procedure".

Took me 20 minutes to do both legs on the Kwak from start to finish, and no knuckles were skinned in the process.