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Post by chris on Mar 21, 2015 14:23:50 GMT
Hi guys, I need some help.
I have noticed especially at night and after fitting an Osram Nightbreaker bulb my headlight seems to be pulsing.
after following the wife he she asked if I was flashing her as it was that bright when "pulsing"
Could this be because the bulb is drawing more power?
should also mention I have just replaced reg/rec
Thanks in advance Chris
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Post by crickleymal on Mar 21, 2015 16:24:26 GMT
Was it pulsing in sync with the engine revs? If so then possibly a duff battery or the idle speed a bit low so the output of the alternator drops below the battery voltage. If the pulsing happens at constant revs then I'd suspect either the regulator or the alternator.
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Post by chris on Mar 21, 2015 19:56:43 GMT
Crickleymal,
I was doing about 40-45 mph at the time so revs steady, no indicators flashing either
I had just replaced the reg/rec and battery was taking charge at 14 odd volts
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Post by crickleymal on Mar 21, 2015 20:26:20 GMT
Hmm, I thought these nightbreaker bulbs were about the same power as a standard halogen light but emitted more light by some mystical process. So the pulsing is not due to any extra power consumption or at least it shouldn't be. Ok, what frequency is the pulsing? Does it happen at lower revs or even with the engine switched off? Was the replacement reg new?
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Post by chris on Mar 21, 2015 20:33:31 GMT
To be honest I've only noticed it at night will check in the morning.
Reg/rec was brand new (I hope) it did put the charging rate back to what it should be. I'm also going to try the old bulb and see what happens.
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Post by crickleymal on Mar 21, 2015 21:30:27 GMT
I suppose it could be a weird effect of a faulty bulb.
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Post by chris on Apr 2, 2015 12:29:56 GMT
GOOD NEWS!
I found the cause of the pulsing headlight, it's down to my heated grips! every time I switch them on the headlight pulses, i followed fitting instructions and wired them straight to the battery, so will this be cured if I tap in to a switched live?
Thanks
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Post by crickleymal on Apr 2, 2015 14:09:00 GMT
Might be better might be worse. The battery is (or should be) a low impedance source of power. So the power to the grips should not make much difference to the voltage. If you move to a switched live every thing attached to that live will be affected although the resistance. It may be that the battery connections are a bit duff. The impedance in the switch ought to isolate the grips slightly.
You've reminded me I did see something similar on my 600 but only at idle with the grips switched on, it went away (or seemed to go away to me)once the engine was revved up a bit.
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Post by m40man on Apr 2, 2015 16:53:14 GMT
I found the cause of the pulsing headlight, it's down to my heated grips! Much weirdness . Hence I have no clue if rewiring it will change anything .
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Post by chris on Apr 2, 2015 17:00:51 GMT
yes m40man it has done my head in, I am going to try a re wire just for the fun of it though!
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Post by CD on Apr 2, 2015 22:55:23 GMT
Measure the voltage at the bulb contacts with headlight on and also at the battery. Mine was losing 1.2 volts in the wires between battery and bulb. 10% volt drop will badly affect bulb brightness. Use the old bulb connector wires to switch a pair of relays. Run a heavy power lead direct from battery to the relay switched contacts. Connect other side to the bulb. You will now have virtually no volts drop and a much more useful headlight. Hassle? Yes, a bit but well worth doing.
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Post by crickleymal on Apr 4, 2015 15:00:26 GMT
I agree it's useful to do but why would that cure the pulsing?
I had a comment from another customer whilst waiting for the MOT on just how bright my headlight looked. So the relay trick is noticeable even in daylight!
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Post by GAv on Apr 4, 2015 15:17:58 GMT
Would an inline fuse help?
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 4, 2015 16:31:50 GMT
....... Hence I have no clue if rewiring...... Never a truer word said
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Post by CD on Apr 6, 2015 17:58:09 GMT
It cures light pulsing because it removes wiring hot spots that affect the bulb brightness. The crappy original wires and switches are now simply driving a little relay coil so any resistance joints don't matter. Totally new and larger wires feed the bulb so it gets full voltage. If there really is a part time fault you might need to find it.
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