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Post by neilmurray on Dec 21, 2014 9:02:43 GMT
New member here. I've had a peek around the site, and it's rather good, really....
Thanks also to toppleoff who flagged up the eBay seller flogging valves, springs, and shims and buckets - not interested in the valves or buckets, but for £38 it's worth it for the eight shims alone, now I've seen what they cost. Bought that.
I've recently acquired an ultra low-miler (11,500!), bought while doing eBay when pished. So sort of accidental. Absolutely mint and standard. It seems a bit clattery on start-up but quietens down when hot. There does appear to be a very minor tap from the top - almost imperceptible - and I think one valve might be on the loose side of the clearances. Not enough to warrant looking at it now, but probably when the weather warms up and the garage isn't bloody freezing.
Shim tool - does anyone have any luck with an ordinary C-spanner? I've got a BMW K tool, but I don't think that'll fit. Might buy the genuine article.
Can you get the cam cover off and access the shims without removing the carbs? Doubt it, but I suppose the Haynes manual I've just ordered will tell me.
Other bikes, for the record, in capacity order: 2009 Triumph Street Triple, 2011 Yamaha 660 Ténéré, 1977 BMW R60/6, 1977 Honda CB400 Four, 1993 Honda CB Two Fifty, 1980-81 Suzuki TS250ER (three off), 1974 Honda CB125S (two-tone red/white model), 1980 Honda CG125 (less than 1000 miles up!).
On order, for delivery in May or June (apparently): Kawasaki H2.<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/303fe212/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>
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Post by HRHpenfold on Dec 21, 2014 10:27:18 GMT
I might have the genuine tool in a draw somewhere!
You have some interesting old bikes there!
I quite like the 400/4 and the cb125s, I passed my test on one of those, though a 77 model with cable front disc!
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Post by neilmurray on Dec 21, 2014 11:04:29 GMT
Be useful if you had, but I think I'll just buy one. Yes, I love Honda 125 singles. This is the CB125S:- i.imgur.com/5cJpTeG.jpg<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/303fe212/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script> |
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Post by HRHpenfold on Dec 21, 2014 12:42:28 GMT
Be useful if you had, but I think I'll just buy one. Yes, I love Honda 125 singles. This is the CB125S:- i.imgur.com/5cJpTeG.jpg<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/303fe212/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script> I don"t need mine, actually I never needed it, it's unused, I no longer have a divvie! That looks a great bike, much better than the modern cheap chinese built models, mine the SJ model, was a fantastic commuter, but would only do 65 to 70mph, so was thrashed everywhere! |
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Post by crickleymal on Dec 21, 2014 19:44:52 GMT
Is that TOG?
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Post by neilmurray on Dec 22, 2014 13:57:16 GMT
Might be, might be....
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Post by bobh on Dec 22, 2014 22:43:16 GMT
The valves can sound horrendously noisy and still be within tolerance. It's the quiet ones you need to be concerned about.
A small leak in the exhaust system under the engine can also sound like a noisy tappet.
Taking the tank, airbox and carbs off is very straightforward. It's the oil cooler you have to be careful of - a simple enough job in itself, but it's all too easy to break the bosses off the cooler body if you don't hold them (they are hexagonal) as you undo and re-fit the banjo bolts. Repair is tricky, and a new genuine cooler is silly money; a few on here have done a conversion to remove it - the earlier models didn't have one and never seemed to suffer, at least not in the UK's temperate climate.
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Post by crickleymal on Dec 24, 2014 8:55:49 GMT
I did wonder. How's the good Doctor? Is UKRM still in existence? |
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Post by neilmurray on Dec 24, 2014 13:49:25 GMT
Fine and yes, amazingly. Some bits of Usenet refuse to die. There's a ukrm Facebook page as well.
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Post by neilmurray on Dec 24, 2014 13:57:38 GMT
The valves can sound horrendously noisy and still be within tolerance. It's the quiet ones you need to be concerned about. A small leak in the exhaust system under the engine can also sound like a noisy tappet. Taking the tank, airbox and carbs off is very straightforward. It's the oil cooler you have to be careful of - a simple enough job in itself, but it's all too easy to break the bosses off the cooler body if you don't hold them (they are hexagonal) as you undo and re-fit the banjo bolts. Repair is tricky, and a new genuine cooler is silly money; a few on here have done a conversion to remove it - the earlier models didn't have one and never seemed to suffer, at least not in the UK's temperate climate. Hm. As the little tap is absent when cold and only present when hot, I reckon it could be an exhaust leak. I'll have another check. Seems to be coming from the top end, though, and vanishes when you rev it. Oil cooler - yeah, I ran a Divvie 900 some years ago and that had exactly the same thing: 17mm (I think, from memory) bosses so you could hold it with an open-ender while undoing the banjos.<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/3804a82/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script> |
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Post by CD on Jan 26, 2015 1:41:34 GMT
You can hold those oil cooler bosses totally solid and they will split anyway. On the 600 just bypass the cooler. On a 900 you could fit an aftermarket cooler radiator. Mine came from PWR in Australia but sold in UK via ebay.
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Post by chance113 on Aug 1, 2017 10:20:25 GMT
Hi, I am trying to work out what shim I need to replace a 268, there is no gap on this inlet valve. looking at the book the shims seem to go up in 5s, anyway its a p reg divvie 600 any help would be appreciated  |
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Post by bobh on Aug 1, 2017 21:55:31 GMT
The shims you can buy go up in steps of 5 (0.05 mm), but Yamaha had intermediate sizes available when setting the bikes up originally.
If there's no clearance it's difficult to know if the valve is fully closed or not, so a bit of trial and error will be needed.
If it's the only valve needing adjustment, then you'll need to get hold of new shims. But if there are others that could be switched, maybe you can use one of those to get a true reading.
I no longer have my Haynes manual for the 600, so I can't tell you exactly what the clearance should be.
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Post by crickleymal on Aug 2, 2017 7:55:45 GMT
You could remove the shim entirely, measure the gap then buy the appropriate shim.
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Post by bobh on Aug 2, 2017 20:58:13 GMT
You could remove the shim entirely, measure the gap then buy the appropriate shim. I'm not sure it's that easy to measure a 2.5mm gap accurately without slip gauges - and not many have those. I guess if you could find a piece of ground steel of an accurately known thickness of around 2mm and then use feelers. I just checked to see if I have any shims left, but there are only 2 - a 270 and a 275 - sorry. |
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