No idea but of you do it please take many many pics and do a how to .... fancied giving this a go my self in the future
I just got around to starting this so thought I would update you.
I am no mechanic by any means the way I did this may be wrong to how other people do it, but its how I did it. If I have cocked up please let me know!
Completely forgot to take pictures too
I have only done the top halves so far (new needles clips and drilling the slides) on Saturday I will put in the new main jets and update with details then.
No need to separate carbs to do this keep in the bank.
Reason I couldn't get it all done in 1 sitting is down to the cap screws being stubborn and made of cheese. I had to let them all soak in Shock & Unlock and attack with Impact Drivers even then I still had to hacksaw a slot in a few for better grip using wide flat head driver.
Replaced all the top chamber cover bolts with M4 socket heads I think sizes I used are 8mm x 12 and 15mm x 4. Will do Float Bowls on Saturday not got around to removing them yet.
Anyway really simple so far: Do one at a time to avoid taking up too much space and keep thinks simple I find with stuff all over its easier to get things confused.
1: Remove chamber cap being careful on last bolt to keep pressure on the cap so it doesn't spring off. Once all 4 bolts off lift off gently and pull out the spring.
2: Gently run finger or a plastic ruler etc around the lip of the diaphragm rubber, this is pretty delicate and expensive to replace so don't go pulling at it. When its loosened from the body you should be able to lift it out.
3: When the slide is out check the diaphragm rubber make sure no cracks or holes etc, if there is replace it. Gently push the diaphragm back over itself so you can get better access to the plastic cap and bits inside the slide.
4: Unscrew the plastic cap, this will reveal a spring and the float under it. Pop these out noting the order the go in (Dynojet instructions are really good and show this anyway)
5: The Dynojet kit comes with a drill bit, if not don't do this. Should be 3 holes in the underside of the slide, one dead centre where the needle comes out, a tiny one next to it where the needle body slots and another off to a side. This one off to the side if the one to drill out. The increase in size is only slight, even so be careful with any excess material to clear it away.
6: Once that is all done its time to swap the needle, take the new needle and insert the E-clip on slot 3 from the top. Remove the E-Clip and needle body from the original needle, pop the needle body on the new needle (it will go in from the tip upwards and push up to meet the E-clip - always be careful with the needle tip its delicate)
7: Now pop a washer on top of the needle as indicated in the Dynojet instructions, now you need to put the Needle back into the slide noting where the little sticky out bit is on the needle body so you can match it up with the slide (this is the hardest part). Once this is in place you can drop the spring back in plastic bit first (should slot in on top of the needle). Now this is all in you just have to pop the cap back on, I find best way is to drop in and fiddle until its right way up then screw it in with finger so can feel when its got thread properly then nip it with the driver.
8: Have a visual inspection of the built slide, needle and carb body make sure no crud contaminated anywhere give a clean if need be and drop the slide and diagram back where it lives, making sure the tab on the diaphragm goes in its correct slot.
9: Pop the Spring back in, the cap back on and repeat on carb 2 3 and 4!
That's it for the top half's and probably the hardest part... which is really simple once get to it.
Once I have done the main jets I will perform test run and update, hopefully without killing my bike in doing this process.
