midd
CBT failure
Posts: 21
|
Post by midd on Mar 18, 2014 21:55:45 GMT
Hi just recieved box with exhaust system in it .was wondering if any members have some good tips for me ,regarding taking off old exhaust system and putting this new one on. im a bit puzzled by the fact i have to[ disconnect oil level switch wire and remove clamp from rear of sump.route wire forwards and refit clamp then fit extension wire and zip tie to frame] as the instructions state . the picture of this i recieved is not clear for me to understand . i would be really thankfull if any one could shed light on fitting the system especially the electrical wire . i use bike each day for work and is my only transport so before taking off old system ,i need to be clear as how to put new one on succesfully .thanks if you can help me on this .
|
|
|
|
Post by spike240 on Mar 18, 2014 22:25:03 GMT
Hi. I am not familiar with your bike, but from experience it probably won't be a straight forward job. My first question is have you had your exhaust system off the bike recently? Cos if you havent, it it will be difficult removing it. Especially the downpipes on the cylinder head. I suggest you spray/treat the bolts with plusgas or similar hours or days before attempting to undo the nuts. Do the same to clamps, although these probably will not be used again,so could be cut off.
Try to plan the job, making sure you have all the parts you need.
ATB
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Mar 19, 2014 15:41:27 GMT
If the old socket head nuts on the header studs are seized, take the bike to the local garage and have each one tacked with arc weld. This puts spot heat into the seized threads. They will then unscrew with the correct socket set hex drive. Try forcing them and one WILL snap off costing mucho time and/or £££s to fix.
ALWAYS disconnect battery, alternator voltage regulator and ignition sparks box before doing any arc welding on the bike. Normally diconnecting the battery should be enough, but my alternator reg failed and I'm sure it was welding the duffed it up.
Dig out the old header gaskets to fit the new ring gaskets. Use new stainless dome nuts on the rebuild.
|
|
midd
CBT failure
Posts: 21
|
Post by midd on Mar 19, 2014 20:37:31 GMT
thanks for replys.ive taken note of what was mentioned. i shall be extra carefull with the head nuts .if they dont want to move ,im not going to force them .ive only got allen keys and sort of understand that a socket set hex drive would apply more of an equal over all force .what about other forms of heating them using something other than arc welding?. i have applied wd 40 over the last few days but never got to crunch time trying to get header studs off. with riding the bike through the extremly wet weather we have had i do have a feeling that their is a big chance of them being seized .last time i took the studs off was two years ago im sure that i used copper slip but it aint half rained recently . thanks for help .midd.
|
|
|
|
Post by bobh on Mar 19, 2014 21:51:40 GMT
If you had them off a couple of years ago and used copper grease, they should come off OK. But a couple of other tips to help loosen them up, after dousing them in penetrating fluid:
1. A few moderate taps on the outer face of the nut, using a solid piece of tube or a small socket, can help to break any corrosion.
2. Start by tightening them slightly - for some reason this also seems to help to break the corrosion.
Good luck!
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Mar 20, 2014 15:43:21 GMT
As they were off quite recently they should be fine.
When I did my 900 they were the originals and probably not touched for at least 10 years. My 3/8 drive hex "sockets" were too big.
I ended up with a long allen key with a small ring spanner slipped onto the key. The long key allowed me to hold it square while the spanner right down at the business end gave it a good sharp twist without the long key twisting and springing.
With luck you be able to tap the spanner with a hammer.
Another option is to grind the end of a larger allen key to a taper and chop off the angle end. Now tap the tapered hex stub it into the end of the nut. Finally, use a 1/4" drive socket to turn the allen key stub.
A tack of arc weld is the least harmful way to get rapid heat into a seized nut/bolt. Blow torches even small (even a small chef's brulee torch) are too diffuse and heat too slowly. A small oxy/fuel torch might be ok but the frame is very close to some of those nuts.
If you dont have the welding kit, a local garage will do the job for beer money.
|
|
