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Post by martind on Mar 18, 2014 16:58:59 GMT
Hi all I just took my 600 Divvy out of winter storage to find it will only fire on cylinders 3 and 4, also fuel flows out of the exhaust joints on 1 and 2, I've fitted new plugs and caps with no improvement, Any help on this one will be much appreciated.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Mar 18, 2014 19:32:28 GMT
Hi all I just took my 600 Divvy out of winter storage to find it will only fire on cylinders 3 and 4, also fuel flows out of the exhaust joints on 1 and 2, I've fitted new plugs and caps with no improvement, Any help on this one will be much appreciated. Sounds like it needs the carbs cleaned, seems to be flooding!
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Post by silverdave on Mar 18, 2014 20:24:50 GMT
Similar problem I had this weekend with my little scooter. Normally starts on the first press of the button. Spent best part of half a day drying out the plug etc. Managed to fill the sump with petrol and dump a river of it down the drive. Every time I pressed the starter the vacuum pump operated and sent a jet of fuel out of the overflow. Stripped the carb and replaced the float valve and the problem was solved. Why a float valve should fail like this I haven't a clue, there wasn't any dirt on the valve seat or in the fuel chamber. Hope this helps
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Post by m40man on Mar 18, 2014 21:21:12 GMT
Sticking floats are not uncommon with bikes after a while off the road. Before diving in with a carb clean, get the bike running on it's two good pots & give the carbs a few knocks on the sides with the wrong end of a hammer or a block of wood. Sometimes the shock will free 'em. Worth a go before a carb strip-down.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Mar 18, 2014 21:28:06 GMT
Sticking floats are not uncommon with bikes after a while off the road. Before diving in with a carb clean, get the bike running on it's two good pots & give the carbs a few knocks on the sides with the wrong end of a hammer or a block of wood. Sometimes the shock will free 'em. Worth a go before a carb strip-down. Or drain the float chamber of the carbs that are over filling, then the weight of the floats will free the valve, again a few knocks with a hammer shaft!
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Post by teejayexc on Mar 18, 2014 21:45:28 GMT
Sticking floats are not uncommon with bikes after a while off the road. Before diving in with a carb clean, get the bike running on it's two good pots & give the carbs a few knocks on the sides with the wrong end of a hammer or a block of wood. Sometimes the shock will free 'em. Worth a go before a carb strip-down. Or drain the float chamber of the carbs that are over filling, then the weight of the floats will free the valve, again a few knocks with a hammer shaft! Ah, that's what the wrong end of a hammer means, thought it was the geezer holding it!
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Post by martind on Mar 19, 2014 9:51:39 GMT
Thanks for all the advice chaps i'll crack on with that today :)and let you know how it goes.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 19, 2014 12:05:12 GMT
Sticking floats are not uncommon with bikes after a while off the road. Before diving in with a carb clean, get the bike running on it's two good pots & give the carbs a few knocks on the sides with the wrong end of a hammer or a block of wood. Sometimes the shock will free 'em. Worth a go before a carb strip-down. Does this explain the Carb problems you had with your xS1100 ?
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Post by m40man on Mar 19, 2014 13:06:35 GMT
Does this explain the Carb problems you had with your xS1100 ? I'm sure you ask with love & care in your heart, so I'll answer: The XS1100 carbs after my rebuild of them didn't sort the running problems. To check I wasn't being a carbs Bandit (see what I did there ?) they were shipped to a carb builder in America. He sent them back saying they were fine - they were not the problem. He didn't need to do any work on them. The problem was eventually tracked down to damage on the timing advance (a mullered screw evidence of previous owner's attempts to remedy, perhaps! Though I still suspect the muppet mech I first entrusted it to!) Though perhaps you didn't really want an answer .
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Post by martind on Mar 19, 2014 14:52:52 GMT
Gave the carbs a tap and yep its running on all four, Its a bit lumpy so gonna have the carbs off for a good clean anyway. Thanks again all.
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Post by m40man on Mar 19, 2014 15:19:24 GMT
Gave the carbs a tap and yep its running on all four, Its a bit lumpy so gonna have the carbs off for a good clean anyway. Thanks again all. Might as well take it for a decent run first - it will probably sort it.
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Post by CD on Mar 19, 2014 15:33:55 GMT
The 600 float covers are easy to access with the petrol tank and air box taken off. Use a new sharp no2 Posi screwdriver to (hopefully) avoid mullered screw heads.
I replaced the crossheads with stainless hex capscrews.
While you have the tank off, make sure the choke plungers are not sticking. A well fitting 14mm AF spanner will unscrew them.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 19, 2014 15:45:09 GMT
Does this explain the Carb problems you had with your xS1100 ? I'm sure you ask with love & care in your heart, so I'll answer: The XS1100 carbs after my rebuild of them didn't sort the running problems. To check I wasn't being a carbs Bandit (see what I did there ?) they were shipped to a carb builder in America. He sent them back saying they were fine - they were not the problem. He didn't need to do any work on them. The problem was eventually tracked down to damage on the timing advance (a mullered screw evidence of previous owner's attempts to remedy, perhaps! Though I still suspect the muppet mech I first entrusted it to!) Though perhaps you didn't really want an answer . On the contrary, I enjoy a happy ending.
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