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Post by bigmick1981 on Mar 16, 2014 17:29:55 GMT
Evening all
Noticed today all lights dim ever so slightly in time with the indicators . To try fix it I ran all indicator earths direct to the battery terminal with no success . Battery is fully charged
any ideas ?
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Mar 16, 2014 17:50:33 GMT
Probably normal is it with engine running.
Neil
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Post by Flymo on Mar 16, 2014 18:26:08 GMT
my D6 does that, although less noticeable with engine running and a little over tick over.
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Post by crickleymal on Mar 16, 2014 18:47:52 GMT
I've seen that on a couple of bikes so it's not unusual. Probably either undersized wiring or high (relatively speaking) resistance at a joint somewhere.
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Post by showaddydadito on Mar 17, 2014 7:33:01 GMT
1 - ah yes, they all do that sir - it is the electrical equivalent of the shower pressure dropping when the missus turns on the hot tap in the kitchen
2 - You will almost certainly notice if you look that the headlights brighten and dim ever so slightly if you blip the throttle.
3 - If you've replaced the earths and it still does it, then the problem is in the live supply.
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Post by bigmick1981 on Mar 17, 2014 7:52:58 GMT
1 - ah yes, they all do that sir - it is the electrical equivalent of the shower pressure dropping when the missus turns on the hot tap in the kitchen 2 - You will almost certainly notice if you look that the headlights brighten and dim ever so slightly if you blip the throttle. 3 - If you've replaced the earths and it still does it, then the problem is in the live supply. So am i wrong in thinking this is a mot fail ? The headlight looks to be bright even at idle . Even with the headlight off I can see the dash indicator dim slightly in time with external indicators Any suggestions on rectifying this or is it a case they all do it do varying degrees ? |
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Post by m40man on Mar 17, 2014 8:05:16 GMT
So am i wrong in thinking this is a mot fail ? The headlight looks to be bright even at idle . Even with the headlight off I can see the dash indicator dim slightly in time with external indicators Any suggestions on rectifying this or is it a case they all do it do varying degrees ? It's not an MOT fail. It's normal to witness some dimming in other lights in time with the indicators. Even brand new bikes & cars do it so don't waste too much time looking for a fault. |
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Post by bigmick1981 on Mar 17, 2014 12:17:40 GMT
It's not an MOT fail. It's normal to witness some dimming in other lights in time with the indicators. Even brand new bikes & cars do it so don't waste too much time looking for a fault. dam I thought it was a fail ha ha oh well was just a couple off quid on wire |
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Post by alan292 on Mar 17, 2014 18:13:58 GMT
Aye mine does it too Mick.....is everything else ready to go ?....  |
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Post by bigmick1981 on Mar 18, 2014 6:57:00 GMT
Aye mine does it too Mick.....is everything else ready to go ?.... Aye I think so ha ha but on Thursday I will go around it again to check all bolts are bolted tight etc |
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Post by CD on Mar 18, 2014 8:32:43 GMT
Amps are electrical current. Volts are pressure. When current goes too high the pressure drops. Less pressure = less power to do the job.
The battery isnt huge and two indicator bulbs pull almost as much power as the headlight bulb, so no surprise the headlight dims slightly. Even my favourite relay solution for the naturally dim headlight will probably make little difference.
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Post by bigmick1981 on Mar 18, 2014 12:30:13 GMT
Amps are electrical current. Volts are pressure. When current goes too high the pressure drops. Less pressure = less power to do the job. The battery isnt huge and two indicator bulbs pull almost as much power as the headlight bulb, so no surprise the headlight dims slightly. Even my favourite relay solution for the naturally dim headlight will probably make little difference. I have yet to stumble across this relay solution do you have a link CD ? |
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Post by teejayexc on Mar 18, 2014 13:00:52 GMT
I have yet to stumble across this relay solution do you have a link CD ? Omg! Do you realise what you have just unleashed ! |
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Mar 18, 2014 13:12:22 GMT
Amps are electrical current. Volts are pressure. When current goes too high the pressure drops. Less pressure = less power to do the job. The battery isnt huge and two indicator bulbs pull almost as much power as the headlight bulb, so no surprise the headlight dims slightly. Even my favourite relay solution for the naturally dim headlight will probably make little difference. I have yet to stumble across this relay solution do you have a link CD ? There was relay no need to bring that up again  Neil |
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Post by CD on Mar 19, 2014 15:11:55 GMT
One wire thick enough to carry 10amps with minimum volt drop. A 10Amp fuse will allow ~120 Watts to can cope with current surge as the bulb filament heats up. Ideally use a busbar fuse box (see eBay) On the 900 with the AIS removed you have lots of space in fairing. 600 may need some brackets. Use one relay on dip beam and on relay on main beam. Run the power wire from new fuse to one relay and loop to the other relay. They connect to the fixed normally open contact. Wire the headlight to the moving normally open contact. The central contact from headlight bulb goes to earth. I used a repair headlamp connector from Halfords. On the original headlight connector, use a meter to find the main and dip beam live contacts. Extend one to one relay and the other to the other relay and connect one to each to coil terminal. The other side of the relay coils goes to earth. This allows the dip switch to energise one relay or the other relay. When lights are off neither relay is energised. Switch on lights. If main and dip are reversed swap the leads from the old headlight wires. The horn can be connected via relay to the same new supply wire but you might need a bigger fuse in the fuse box. Alternatively (and more neatly) run another wire for the horn and its relay. The standard horn copes without a relay but its not exactly loud. Any half-decent horn needs a relay. This gives a lot more detail www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.htmlHe says: The headlamp power circuit ought to use no less than 14-gauge (2.5 mm2) wire, with 12-gauge (4.0 mm2) being preferable. I used one 2.5mm2 and found only minimal volt drop when I did a test wire direct to the headlight. My issue was finding crimp connectors that would work reliably on thicker wire. Professional quality pliers would solve that, |
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