how to bench test a r/r

[bigmick1981]

Me again ha ha

Does anybody have a how to on bench testing a 5 wire r/r ? My original looks a bit burned at the connector but got a second one realy cheap. The bike is no where near running but would like to test out the r/r before hand to save any complications

Thanks for reading

Mick

[rowlf]

Oct 29, 2013 13:36:13 GMT bigmick1981 said:

Me again ha ha

Does anybody have a how to on bench testing a 5 wire r/r ? My original looks a bit burned at the connector but got a second one realy cheap. The bike is no where near running but would like to test out the r/r before hand to save any complications

Thanks for reading

Mick

I don't think you can. Yamaha's only recommended test is to test the output voltage which should be 14.3 to 15.3 volts at 5000 rpm. Both the alternator and battery need to be connected to make the voltage test meaningful. If the output voltage is wrong Yamaha's recommended step is to check the resistance of the stator coils (0.32 to 0.48 ohms). If they are OK, change the reg/rec.

There is so much switching going on inside the reg/rec to regulate the voltage as the alternator changes speeds and therefore output, bench testing would tell you nothing. Best to test it on a bike, unless you can manually spin the alternator at 5000 rpm

If someone on here is nearby maybe they can help. Easy enough to swap them for a test.

[bigmick1981]

Wouldn't want to potentially damage someone's bike so will wait till mine is running. Cheers tho

[CD]

Make sure the stator coils test out ok. Also check EVERY wiring connector for corrosion.

When my regulator failed it cause a short circuit to earth and flattened the battery. The only possible bench test for the reg/rec is to make sure there is infinite resistance between the regulator +ve connection and earth.

New regs are not costly.
www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=motorcycle+rectifier&_sadis=200&_ipg=50&_adv=1&_sop=12&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_osacat=0&_from=R40&LH_Complete=1&_dmd=1&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xmotorcycle+rectifier+3+phase&_nkw=motorcycle+rectifier+3+phase&_sacat=0

[bigmick1981]

Just bought a second hand unit as seller claims it was a good one and already dichedbthe original loom and bought one from a 2002 breaker with corrosion free connectors to save from fixing all the broken ones ha ha

[CD]

Good idea. Also check out the blue wire of doom thread(s). Its a well known fault around the regulator and starter motor solenoid. As you are fitting a new loom some of the connectors can be taken out permanently. They exist only to aid the factory build but have no electrical value so can be cut out, soldered and sleeved.

You could also fit relays to the headlight circuit. Use the original bulb wires to drive the relays with a separate direct wire from the battery to feed the bulbs. Why bother? The standard wiring saps at least 1 volt between battery and bulb. 10% volt drop has a big effect on bulb brightness. To check it out run the headlight normally, then run a jump wire to the bulb from the battery. Its palpably brighter without all the system mush in the way.