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Post by gazzafield on Aug 29, 2013 15:16:42 GMT
Diversion 600, 1999 with 17.5k miles. Bought the bike last year with 12.5k miles and it has started and run faultlessly until now. That's just a little background on the bike.
So, around three weeks ago, I was leaving work, started the bike and off I went. Rode about ten miles and then stopped to fill up with petrol. Gloves and lid back on, switch on ignition, push button - Nothing, zip, nada. Not even a click. Try starting with clutch in, waggle sidestand, flick kill switch a few times, nothing. Bump start and ride home. Got home, nothing.
So I have found an old solenoid and tried it. No change. I have checked the sidestand switch at it's connector under the tank, it appears to be fine. The battery reads 12.5 to 12.6 volts. Short the solenoid and the engine turns. The clutch switch appears to be OK. When switching on the ignition there is a definite click from a relay under the right hand side panel. When playing with the kill switch this relay also clicks which makes me think that the kill switch and ignition are at least doing something. So I'm kind of stuck as to where to start looking considering how suddenly it stopped working. Anyone have clues?
Is this time to 'fess up that I connected the solenoid battery and starter connectors the wrong way round first time? Hopefully no damage done as it wouldn't even click in the first place.
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Post by rowlf on Aug 29, 2013 17:09:08 GMT
Diversion 600, 1999 with 17.5k miles. Bought the bike last year with 12.5k miles and it has started and run faultlessly until now. That's just a little background on the bike. So, around three weeks ago, I was leaving work, started the bike and off I went. Rode about ten miles and then stopped to fill up with petrol. Gloves and lid back on, switch on ignition, push button - Nothing, zip, nada. Not even a click. Try starting with clutch in, waggle sidestand, flick kill switch a few times, nothing. Bump start and ride home. Got home, nothing. So I have found an old solenoid and tried it. No change. I have checked the sidestand switch at it's connector under the tank, it appears to be fine. The battery reads 12.5 to 12.6 volts. Short the solenoid and the engine turns. The clutch switch appears to be OK. When switching on the ignition there is a definite click from a relay under the right hand side panel. When playing with the kill switch this relay also clicks which makes me think that the kill switch and ignition are at least doing something. So I'm kind of stuck as to where to start looking considering how suddenly it stopped working. Anyone have clues? Is this time to 'fess up that I connected the solenoid battery and starter connectors the wrong way round first time? Hopefully no damage done as it wouldn't even click in the first place. You can test a solenoid by running a test piece of wire from negative (that's the black wire  ) and touching it to the blue and white wire at the solenoid. That bypasses the starter cut-off relay momentarily. However, if you changed the solenoid it is probably OK. Still worth a quick test. Based on the symptoms you describe it could be a faulty starter switch (or the wiring for it) or the starter cut-off relay in the relay assembly. It might sound like the relay is working (clicking) but there is also a fuel pump relay in there which picks up at the same time. It could be that you are hearing. The starter cut-off relay uses negative return to check that either a) bike is in neutral or b) clutch is pulled in with the sidestand up They are completely separate (negative) circuits so very unlikely both are faulty plus if neutral light comes on, the neutral switch seems OK and that is a very simple circuit. The positive side of the relay is fed via the stop switch (from the ignition fuse) and the fact the fuel pump works pretty much eliminates the positive part as the positive supply of both relays is taken from the one wire (it splits off to both relays inside the relay assembly). Are you happy using an electrical meter ? |
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Aug 29, 2013 18:44:09 GMT
Check battery connections & earth may have a dodgy battery that under load allows the solenoid to drop out but still read 12 plus volts.
Try jumping it with another battery after checking connections.
Do the easy & cheap (well battery s are a consumable like oil & petrol now)stuff first.
Neil
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Post by gazzafield on Aug 29, 2013 19:37:03 GMT
I poked around further and pulled the bank of relays off at the back pf the bike and "LO!" a blue wire simply fell off of one of them all corroded to hell. I may have the, what seems to be, infamous blue wire problem.
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Post by gsteinert on Aug 29, 2013 19:58:05 GMT
I poked around further and pulled the bank of relays off at the back pf the bike and "LO!" a blue wire simply fell off of one of them all corroded to hell. I may have the, what seems to be, infamous blue wire problem. The blue wire of death strikes again! I'm surprised that wasn't suggested earlier  Seems to be a favourite around here! Gary |
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Post by rowlf on Aug 29, 2013 21:19:58 GMT
I poked around further and pulled the bank of relays off at the back pf the bike and "LO!" a blue wire simply fell off of one of them all corroded to hell. I may have the, what seems to be, infamous blue wire problem. Not quite but close. Blue wire syndrome is at the connector block under the side panel. Was it the blue/white wire? (starter switch). |
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Post by gazzafield on Aug 30, 2013 8:20:32 GMT
No, it was the blue wire on the relay block under the side panel. Don't know why I hadn't thought of it before. But when I found it memories came rushing back of an FZ600 I had the exact same problem with about three years ago. It had the same relay pack and the blue wire on that fell apart and I had to remake all the connections. It lived under the left side panel or just under the tank from memory but I wouldn't be surprised if it was the exact same part number. So here's hoping when I have the connectors that all is well.
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Post by rowlf on Aug 30, 2013 8:33:17 GMT
No, it was the blue wire on the relay block under the side panel. Don't know why I hadn't thought of it before. But when I found it memories came rushing back of an FZ600 I had the exact same problem with about three years ago. It had the same relay pack and the blue wire on that fell apart and I had to remake all the connections. It lived under the left side panel or just under the tank from memory but I wouldn't be surprised if it was the exact same part number. So here's hoping when I have the connectors that all is well. Oh well, worth knowing as somebody else is likely to have the same problem in the future, maybe me  It does seem that 99% of Diversion starter problems are due to a bad connection in one of the blue wire circuits, mostly under the side panel where it seems to get damp. There's another owner on here with a couple of electrical issues at the moment, including starting, so it would be worth him checking that when he has fitted a new battery. Anyway, I'm glad you found it relatively easily and at least it wasn't expensive like the relay assembly. Here's hoping all is well  |
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Post by gazzafield on Aug 30, 2013 12:51:11 GMT
I apologise to you, good sir. After cleaning off ALL the crud, yes there was more, it was indeed the blue wire with white tracer.
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Post by rowlf on Aug 30, 2013 13:09:37 GMT
I apologise to you, good sir. After cleaning off ALL the crud, yes there was more, it was indeed the blue wire with white tracer. That makes more sense, I was a bit surprised by the "blue" wire. The light blue one is for the neutral switch but the bike should still have started OK if the sidestand was up with the clutch pulled in. There should be two blue and white wires, one goes to the starter switch, one goes to the solenoid. Either of those being disconnected would stop the starter, er  no matter what, Thanks for letting me know. |
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Post by gazzafield on Aug 31, 2013 9:58:36 GMT
So, ordered these kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/%223-4303/50%20Pack%22, now have plenty of spares. Put the whole link in as the service is great, ordered yesterday at 14:00 and they arrived in this morning's mail. Crimped one on to failed blue/white wire and pushed into multi-block connector. The latch isn't in the right place unfortunately but a cable tie holding the cable to the rest of the wires will stop any movement. Hook Relay pack back on and press starter - HURRAH! My bike lives again. Just need to put it all back together. |
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) and touching it to the blue and white wire at the solenoid. That bypasses the starter cut-off relay momentarily. However, if you changed the solenoid it is probably OK. Still worth a quick test.
Seems to be a favourite around here!
It does seem that 99% of Diversion starter problems are due to a bad connection in one of the blue wire circuits, mostly under the side panel where it seems to get damp. There's another owner on here with a couple of electrical issues at the moment, including starting, so it would be worth him checking that when he has fitted a new battery.
no matter what,